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{"id":258,"date":"2013-10-18T14:09:00","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T14:09:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=258"},"modified":"2017-06-01T06:40:13","modified_gmt":"2017-06-01T06:40:13","slug":"iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00cdr\u00e1n – severoz\u00e1pad zem\u011b, Kurdist\u00e1n 2013"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"iran2013_titul\"$ <\/strong><\/p>\n

FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Propagace<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3><strong>25-27\/6\/2013 \u2013 Salam aleikum \u2013 TEHRAN, TOCHAL<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_339\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-339\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_01.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-339 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_01-300x191.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_01\" width=\"300\" height=\"191\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_01-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_01.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-339\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azadi Tower – jedna z teher\u00e1nsk\u00fdch ikon.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Cesta z Prahy p\u0159es Minsk do Tehranu byla v pohod\u011b, v Minsku jsme degustovali m\u00edstn\u00ed pivka a na leti\u0161ti Imama Khomeiniho jsme p\u0159ist\u00e1li dnes r\u00e1no v 03:40 h. Jeliko\u017e v\u00edza m\u00e1me za\u0159\u00edzen\u00e9 ji\u017e z Prahy, tak jsme \u0161li rovnou k pasov\u00e9 kontrole a bez problem\u016f pro\u0161li. Ve\u0161ker\u00e1 na\u0161e bag\u00e1\u017e t\u00e9\u017e doputovala a po 4. h rann\u00ed jsme se p\u0159ed leti\u0161t\u011bm setkali s na\u0161\u00ed kamar\u00e1dkou z \u010cech, kter\u00e1 tu pracuje. U n\u00ed m\u00e1me azyl na prvn\u00ed dny v \u00cdr\u00e1nu na severu m\u011bsta pobl\u00ed\u017e parku Niyavaran. Po\u010das\u00ed je slune\u010dn\u00e9 a tepl\u00e9 (30\u00b0C). Dopoledne jsme prospali, pak n\u00e1s kamar\u00e1dka b\u00e1je\u010dn\u011b pohostila mistn\u00edm kebabem.<br \/>\nZa 400 EUR jsme dostali 16 400 000 Rials, tzn. 1 EUR = 41 000 Rials, 1 000 Rials = cca 0,6 K\u010d (platn\u00e9 k dne\u0161n\u00edmu dni 26\/6\/2013).<\/p>\n<p>Prvn\u00ed podve\u010der v \u00cdr\u00e1nu tr\u00e1v\u00edme s na\u0161imi \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00e1teli z minul\u00e9ho roku. Dali jsme si spicha v centru m\u011bsta v 17 h u Parku Laleh a jak jsme se dohodli, tak se stalo. Taxikem na Tajrish (100 000 Rials) a odtud ji\u017e metrem (one way ticket 5 000 Rials) s jedn\u00edm p\u0159estupem na stanici Meydan-e Enghalab Eslami. A je to fakt dobr\u00fd mejdan \ud83d\ude42 Po roce se vid\u00edme s Shivou, jej\u00edm bratrem a dal\u0161\u00edmi. Mil\u00e9 setk\u00e1n\u00ed. Stejn\u011b jako p\u0159ed rokem n\u00e1s zvou na zdej\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00fd zmrzlinov\u00fd koktejl a ochutn\u00e1v\u00e1me m\u00edstn\u00ed pol\u00e9vku a\u0161 e re\u0161t p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed hodn\u011b vzd\u00e1len\u011b na\u0161e kyselo. Sp\u00edme u na\u0161\u00ed kamar\u00e1dky.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den \u2013 st\u0159eda \u2013 vst\u00e1v\u00e1me v 8:30 h a napln\u011bn\u00fdm taxikem (50 000 Rials) se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na Tajrish a dal\u0161\u00edm taxi (70 000 Rials) k startovac\u00ed stanici telekabinky na Tochal, co\u017e je n\u011bco jako Je\u0161t\u011bd pro Liberec. Lanovka za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 v 1800 m ve 1st station, v 2500 m je dal\u0161\u00ed \u2013 2nd station. Potud v\u0161e OK. Dal\u0161\u00ed stanice je ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3000 m a jej\u00ed n\u00e1zev je 5th station a kone\u010dn\u00e1 je ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3600 m a jedn\u00e1 se o 7th station. N\u00e1zvy a po\u010d\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed stanic nech\u00e1pu, ale to je m\u016fj probl\u00e9m. V ka\u017ed\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b jsme za 300 000 Rials po 10. h na kone\u010dn\u00e9 stanici a \u010dek\u00e1 n\u00e1s 400 m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch po sv\u00fdch na vrchol Tochalu (3957 m).<\/p>\n<p>Po\u010das\u00ed je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 slune\u010dn\u00e9, pe\u010de to jak kr\u00e1va, rychl\u00fd p\u0159echod do vysok\u00e9 nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ky je zn\u00e1t \u2013 fun\u00edme jako lokomotivy. Po \u0161irok\u00e9 kamenit\u00e9 cest\u011b se jde pohodln\u011b a krom\u011b v\u00fd\u0161ky nejsou probl\u00e9my. Na vrcholu jsme p\u0159ed polednem, je to z\u0159ejm\u011b moje prvn\u00ed \u010dty\u0159tis\u00edcovka v sand\u00e1l\u00edch \ud83d\ude42 Je tu hodn\u011b m\u00edstn\u00edch turist\u016f a dokonce i jeden Pol\u00e1k. Dol\u016f sch\u00e1z\u00edme v 13:30 a bereme to je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159es vedlej\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1padn\u00ed vrchol. P\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 se k n\u00e1m dvojice m\u00edstn\u00edch kluk\u016f a spole\u010dn\u011b rozeb\u00edr\u00e1me sv\u011btovou politiku \ud83d\ude42 Posledn\u00ed \u00fasek telekabinky sch\u00e1z\u00edme po sv\u00fdch. Slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed a z\u0159ejm\u011b to m\u00e1 u m\u011b za n\u00e1sledek v kombinac\u00ed s v\u00fd\u0161kou za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed bolesti hlavy. V 3000 m jsem r\u00e1d, \u017ee m\u016f\u017eeme jet lanovkou. Dole hned kupujeme pit\u00ed, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1m u\u017e d\u00e1vno do\u0161lo. M\u00edstn\u00edm hromadn\u00fdm taxi savari (mikrobus do 10 lid\u00ed) se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me levn\u011b na Tajrish (15 000 Rials pro oba), odtud taxi k Niyavaran parku (100 000 Rials). J\u00e1 jsem r\u00e1d, \u017ee jsem \u201cdoma\u201d, proto\u017ee m\u011b hlava bol\u00ed. Dost\u00e1v\u00e1m se z toho a\u017e po hodince sp\u00e1nku. Ksichty m\u00e1me slu\u0161n\u011b se\u017eehnut\u00e9.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>28\/6\/2013 \u2013 V\u00fdlet kousek za Tehran \u2013 SHEMSHAK<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_351\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-351\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_021.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-351 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_021-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_02\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_021-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_021.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-351\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hory kousek za Teher\u00e1nem.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>P\u00e1tek je v \u00cdr\u00e1nu v\u00edkendov\u00fd den, tak\u017ee na\u0161e kamar\u00e1dka m\u00e1 volno. Od lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed v\u010dera odjedli na Damavand a dnes jsou v t\u00e1bo\u0159e ve 4200 m m\u00e1me informaci, \u017ee tam dneska sn\u011b\u017e\u00ed, fouk\u00e1 siln\u00fd v\u00edtr a je pom\u011brn\u011b zima (-10\u00b0C). Proto se rozhodujeme pro jin\u00fd c\u00edl \u2013 zimn\u00ed st\u0159edisko Shemshak asi 40 km severn\u011b od Tehranu. Odtud je mo\u017en\u00e9 vyj\u00edt p\u0159es shelter v 3500 m na vrchol Sarakchal (4100 m). Hodn\u011b rozv\u00e1\u017en\u011b odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme po poledni z Tehranu. Doprava je dnes extra \u201c\u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e1\u201d, rozum\u011bj d\u017eungle jako bl\u00e1zen. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed kamar\u00e1dka Kl\u00e1ra je opravdu zdatn\u00e1 \u0159idi\u010dka a ve zdej\u0161\u00ed dopravn\u00ed d\u017eungli je jako ryba ve vod\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Kus za Tehranem se stavujeme ve velmi dobr\u00e9 restauraci, kde si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me kebab a pstruha v t\u0159e\u0161\u0148ov\u00e9m sadu. Odtud n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f j\u00edzda v z\u00e1cp\u011b. Po 16. h jsme v Shemshaku a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 poprch\u00e1vat. V hor\u00e1ch je mlha a vrcholky nejsou vid\u011bt. P\u0159esto alespo\u0148 mal\u00fd v\u00fdlet d\u00e1me. Auto m\u00e1me zaparkovan\u00e9 v 2700 m a za necel\u00e9 dv\u011b hodiny t\u016fry jsme ve 3300 m. Vzhledem k po\u010das\u00ed a pokro\u010dil\u00e9mu \u010dasu to ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme a sb\u00edh\u00e1me za hromobit\u00ed k autu. Cestou do Tehranu se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me op\u011bt do z\u00e1cpy. Kam se hrabe pond\u011bln\u00ed \u0160t\u011brboholsk\u00e1 radi\u00e1la. Po tomto z\u00e1\u017eitku s na pra\u017esk\u00e9m okruhu budu v kolon\u011b sm\u00e1t. Po dvou hodin\u00e1ch tak\u0159ka na m\u00edst\u011b to vzd\u00e1v\u00e1me a jdeme si d\u00e1t \u010daj do restaurace p\u0159i cest\u011b. Silnice je pln\u00e1 aut. Do Tehranu se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u0159ed p\u016flnoc\u00ed. I to je \u00cdr\u00e1n \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<h3><strong>29-30\/6\/2013 \u2013 HAMADAN neboli ECTABANA, nejstar\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto sv\u011bta<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_341\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-341\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_03.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-341 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_03-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_03\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_03-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_03.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-341\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pouli\u010dn\u00ed prodej v Hamadanu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dnes opou\u0161t\u00edme komfort Kl\u00e1\u0159ina azylu a odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z Tehranu. Po \u201ctypicky\u201d \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9m ob\u011bd\u011b (\u0159\u00edzek s bramborovou ka\u0161\u00ed) jedeme metrem do stanice Mosalla a odtud taxikem na Terminal-e Arzhantin. V 17:00 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme VIP busem do Hamadanu (190 000 Rials\/os), d\u0159\u00edve zvan\u00e9ho Ectabana, \u00fadajn\u011b nejstar\u0161\u00edho m\u011bsta starov\u011bk\u00e9 Persie a jednoho z nejstar\u0161\u00edch m\u011bst na sv\u011bt\u011b (prvn\u00ed zm\u00ednky cca 4000 let p\u0159. n. l.). V Hamadanu jsme v 21:00 h, taxikem se dopravujeme do centra na nam\u011bst\u00ed Imama Khomeiniho (jak jinak). Nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ubytovna m\u00e1 plno, tak zkou\u0161\u00edme o kousek vedle druhou nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed mo\u017enost ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed \u2013 Hotel Ordibehesti. Na\u0161test\u00ed se tu chyt\u00e1me (500 000 Rials\/2 os.), pokoj ma 4 l\u016f\u017eka, p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b i klimatizaci a je docela \u010dist\u00fd. St\u00edhame je\u0161t\u011b no\u010dn\u00ed coura\u010dku kolem Imam Khomeini sq.<\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no vst\u00e1v\u00e1me po 9. h a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme do m\u011bsta. B\u00e1gly nech\u00e1v\u00e1me na recepci v hotelu, recep\u010dn\u00ed Ali um\u00ed anglicky. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me hned vedle hotelu v me\u0161it\u011b m\u00edstn\u00edho v\u00fdznamu \u2013 Imamzadeh-ye Hossein. Pokra\u010dujeme P\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161itou \u2013 Jameh mosque s baz\u00e9nem na dvo\u0159e. Chv\u00edli marn\u011b hled\u00e1me asi nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed magnet m\u011bsta \u2013 hrobku Ester a Mordecai. Po chv\u00edli n\u00e1m mlad\u00fd \u00cdr\u00e1nec ochotn\u011b ukazuje cestu. Jedn\u00e1 se o jednu z nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u017eidovsk\u00fdch pam\u00e1tek na \u00fazem\u00ed \u00cdr\u00e1nu pochazej\u00edc\u00ed ze 14. st. n. l. Pr\u016fvodce n\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1 \u017eidovsk\u00fd rab\u00edn Rajat. Otev\u00edr\u00e1 400 kg v\u00e1\u017e\u00edc\u00ed kamenn\u00e9 dve\u0159e do samotn\u00e9 hrobky a vch\u00e1z\u00edme dovnit\u0159. Na zdech jsou n\u00e1pisy v hebrej\u0161tin\u011b i fars\u00ed. V dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edstnosti jsou samotn\u00e9 hrobky Ester a Mordecai a d\u00e1le mal\u00e1 \u017eidovsk\u00e1 synagoga. \u017did Mordecai byl poradce persk\u00e9ho kr\u00e1le a jeho nete\u0159 Ester se stala man\u017eelkoku kr\u00e1le Xerxese I. Pr\u016fvodce Rajat je sb\u011bratel propisek, co\u017e jsem se do\u010detl a tak jsem na to pat\u0159i\u010dn\u011b vybaven jedn\u00edm hezk\u00fdm \u010desk\u00fdm pis\u00e1tkem, ze kter\u00e9ho m\u00e1 velkou radost. \u017did se nezap\u0159e, hned n\u00e1s ob\u00edr\u00e1 o 2 x 50 000 Rials za pr\u016fvodcovskou slu\u017ebu.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed zajimavost\u00ed Hamadanu, kterou m\u00e1me v pl\u00e1nu je hrobka Buali Sina (st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fd leka\u0159 a autor prvn\u00edch l\u00e9ka\u0159sk\u00fdch u\u010debnic) a stoj\u00ed na stejnojmenn\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Zva\u017eujeme je\u0161t\u011b mo\u017enost jet s travel agency Ali Sadr (s\u00eddl\u00ed kousek od Buali Sina sq.) za 500 000 Rials na jeskyn\u011b Ali Sadr vzd\u00e1len\u00e9 asi 60 km odtud, ale je u\u017e dost pozd\u011b (poledne) a tak to zavrhujeme. M\u00edsto toho jdeme do restaurace Kaktus na lehk\u00fd ob\u011bd. J\u00eddlo dobr\u00e9, ale m\u011b tato restaurace z\u016fstane v pam\u011bti kv\u016fli ne\u010demu jin\u00e9mu: hned u prvn\u00edho sousta mi vypadla moje starod\u00e1vn\u00e1 zlat\u00e1 korunka z p\u011btky vpravo dole. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed to zat\u00edm nebol\u00ed, tak doufam, \u017ee to tak vydr\u017e\u00ed. Ale diru tam te\u010f m\u00e1m s prominut\u00edm jak do prdele.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed bod na\u0161eho z\u00e1jmu je muzeum Hamadansk\u00e9ho os\u00eddlen\u00ed na severu m\u011bsta a hned vedle k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fd kostel\u00edk. Vstup do tohoto arealu je na m\u00edstn\u00ed pom\u011bry dost drah\u00fd (150 000 Rials). Pot\u00e9 relaxujeme v parku Baba Taher, kde je hrobka Baba Tahera \u2013 v\u016fbec netu\u0161\u00edm, kdo to byl, ale hrobka vypad\u00e1 jak raketa pripravena na start na Mars, tak\u017ee asi n\u011bjak\u00fd persk\u00fd Gagarin J Cestou do hotelu jdeme kolem dal\u0161\u00ed \u2013 tentokr\u00e1t rodinn\u00e9 \u2013 hrobky Alavian z 12 st. n. l.<\/p>\n<p>V hotelu nab\u00edr\u00e1me bato\u017einu a taxikem jedeme na severn\u00ed okraj m\u011bsta odkud maj\u00ed jezdit ob\u010dasn\u00e9 spoje do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho Kurdistanu \u2013 Sanandaje. M\u00e1me kliku, zastavujeme na m\u00edst\u011b a taxik\u00e1\u0159 je\u0161t\u011b na posledn\u00ed chvil\u00ed dob\u00edh\u00e1 autobus, kter\u00fd ma nam\u00ed\u0159eno pr\u00e1v\u011b do kurdsk\u00e9ho centra. Z Hamadanu tedy odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme busem v 16:00 h (60 000 Rials\/os) a proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme zaj\u00edmavou krajinou poho\u0159\u00ed Zagros. Okol\u00ed se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 zelenat, co\u017e je po pou\u0161tn\u00edm charakteru v\u00edtan\u00e1 zm\u011bna. V Sanandaji jsme pred 19. h, taxi do centra (cca 4 km) stoj\u00ed 30 000 Rials, coz je m\u00e9n\u011b ne\u017e nap\u0159. v Tehranu a i ostatn\u00ed ceny jsou zde ni\u017e\u0161\u00ed. Hotel Nehro (350 000 Rials) je hodn\u011b levn\u00fd a je to zn\u00e1t i na kvalit\u011b \u2013 sice m\u00e1me zachod na pokoji, ale okno je jen do chodby, trochu to p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 Ruzy\u0148sk\u00e9 v\u011bzen\u00ed, ale tam maji okno ven. Je\u0161t\u011b \u017ee mame svoje spac\u00e1ky, pod touto dekou bych opravdu sp\u00e1t necht\u011bl \ud83d\ude42 Ve\u010der je\u0161t\u011b proch\u00e1z\u00edme centrum. Kurdov\u00e9 jsou je\u0161t\u011b vst\u0159\u00edcn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed k cizincum, ne\u017e samotn\u00ed \u00cdr\u00e1nci a to je co \u0159\u00edct. Do \u0159e\u010di se chce s n\u00e1mi d\u00e1vat tak\u0159ka ka\u017ed\u00fd. V restauraci Jahannama v\u00fdborn\u00e1 ve\u010de\u0159e.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>1-2\/7\/2013 \u2013 V srdci \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho Kurdist\u00e1nu v SANANDAJI, MARIVANU a HOWRAMANU<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_342\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-342\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_04.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-342 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_04-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_04\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_04-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_04.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-342\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">V srdci \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho Kurdist\u00e1nu – horsk\u00e1 vesni\u010dka Howraman, p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f od ir\u00e1ck\u00fdch hranic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>R\u00e1no zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed kurdsk\u00e9 muzeum je bohu\u017eel zav\u0159en\u00e9, co\u017e je \u0161koda, pr\u00fd je opravdu dobr\u00e9. P\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161itu vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me v\u010detn\u011b z\u00e1chodu, prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme starod\u00e1vn\u00fd rodinn\u00fd d\u016fm Moshir Divan ze 14. st. n. l., kter\u00fd by ale pot\u0159eboval opravit. Na hotelu se pokou\u0161\u00edm vysv\u011btlit, \u017ee i kdy\u017e m\u00e1me zaplacenou dal\u0161\u00ed noc, tak m\u011bn\u00edme pl\u00e1ny a chceme odjet do Marivanu \u2013 cca 120 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho regionalniho centra. Ze za\u010d\u00e1tku to vypad\u00e1 bled\u011b, ale po chv\u00edli opravdu recep\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed s\u00e1m k n\u00e1m na pokoj a vrac\u00ed n\u00e1m pen\u00edze. P\u0159esouv\u00e1me na severn\u00ed okraj m\u011bsta, odkud jezd\u00ed sd\u00edlen\u00e9 taxi do Marivanu.<\/p>\n<p>Dv\u011b \u017eeny pr\u00e1v\u011b sh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed dva pasa\u017e\u00e9ry, tak\u017ee jsme \u010dty\u0159i do auta a jedeme (100 000 Rials\/os.). Horsk\u00e1 krajina poho\u0159\u00ed Zagros je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1, skalnat\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy. Jedna spolupasa\u017e\u00e9rka um\u00ed anglicky a po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do Marivanu n\u00e1s zve k sobe dom\u016f. Vyklubala se z n\u00ed pan\u00ed Parvin, sest\u0159i\u010dka v m\u00edstn\u00ed nemocnici. M\u016f\u017eeme u n\u00ed p\u0159espat, co\u017e s radost\u00ed vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me. P\u011bkn\u00fd vzdu\u0161n\u00fd byt s kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi persk\u00fdmi koberci z Mashadu. Pan\u00ed n\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1 pr\u016fvodkyni po Marivanu, p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 kurdsk\u00e9 m\u011bsto. Kurdi tu nos\u00ed, stejn\u011b jako v Sanandaji, trochu jin\u00e9 oble\u010den\u00ed ne\u017e ve zbytku \u00cdr\u00e1nu \u2013 mu\u017ei srandovn\u00ed \u0161irok\u00e9 kalhoty a \u017eeny jsou daleko pest\u0159eji obl\u00e9kan\u00e9. Zcela bez chyby je relaxa\u010dn\u00ed z\u00f3na 2 km od m\u011bsta u jezera Zarivar \u2013 restaurace, kr\u00e1mky, lavi\u010dky, park, lodi\u010dky, \u0161lapadla\u2026 Kousek nad jezerem jsou bungalovy k ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed turist\u016f a restaurace. P\u00e1r km odtud jsou hranice s \u00cdr\u00e1kem. Cestou dom\u016f n\u00e1s pan\u00ed Parvin zve na kebab. Bohu\u017eel je\u0161t\u011b netu\u0161\u00edme, co se bude d\u00edt doma. Tam nast\u00e1vaj\u00ed hotov\u00e9 gurm\u00e1nsk\u00e9 orgie a n\u00e1m prask\u00e1 b\u0159icho ve \u0161vech. Do p\u016flnoci do n\u00e1s na\u0161e hostitelka l\u00e1duje hlava nehlava kurdsk\u00e9 pochutiny. Sp\u00e1t moc nejde kv\u016fli narvanosti, nav\u00edc ve 4:40 h za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 halekat svolava\u010d k modlitb\u011b \u2013 muez\u00edn, n\u00e1mi famili\u00e9rn\u011b p\u0159ejmenovan\u00fd na Jirku Halekala.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den 2\/7\/2013\u00a0n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 op\u011bt velk\u00e1 sn\u00eddan\u011b. Pan\u00ed Parvin n\u00e1m domlouvila taxi na v\u00fdlet do kurdsk\u00e9 vesnice v hor\u00e1ch Howraman (asi 40 km od Marivanu). Vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 9:20 h, cesta p\u0159es hory je opravdu zaj\u00edmav\u00e1. V 11 h jsme ve vesnici. S \u0159idi\u010dem jsme domluveni, \u017ee pro n\u00e1s sjede v 16:00 h. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme si celou vesnici. Domky jsou zde zapu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 do svahu a cel\u00e9 s\u00eddlo vypada exoticky. Na konci vesnice je h\u0159bitov, odkud je Howraman asi nejfotogeni\u010dt\u011bj\u0161i. Slunce pal\u00ed osto\u0161est. P\u0159ed 18. h jsme op\u011bt v Marivanu. Domlouv\u00e1me se, \u017ee tu je\u0161t\u011b jednu noc p\u0159esp\u00edme. Pan\u00ed Parvin jde na no\u010dn\u00ed \u0161ichtu do nemocnice, my jdeme k jezeru na \u0161lapadla, do restaurace (ryb\u00ed kebab z m\u00edstn\u00ed ryby Amur). Cestou zp\u00e1tky se stavujeme v nemocnici pro pan\u00ed Parvin a to je za\u017eitek. I p\u0159es pozdn\u00ed no\u010dn\u00ed hodinu tu je hodn\u011b \u017eivo. Zuzka jako z\u00e1stupce \u010desk\u00e9ho zdravotnictv\u00ed m\u016f\u017ee porovn\u00e1vat. Necht\u011bl bych tu skon\u010dit, ale to v \u017eadn\u00e9 nemocnici. Pro doktory jsme stejn\u00e1 atrakce jako pro n\u00e1s cel\u00e1 nemocnice. Ve\u010der op\u011bt hody.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>3-4\/7\/2013 \u2013 U no\u017e\u00ed\u0159\u016f v ZANDJANU<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_343\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-343\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_05.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-343 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_05-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_05\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_05-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_05.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-343\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">No\u017e\u00ed\u0159stv\u00ed v Zanjanu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>R\u00e1no se lou\u010d\u00edme s na\u0161\u00ed hostitelkou pan\u00ed Parvin a cel\u00fdm Marivanem, pota\u017emo Kurdist\u00e1nem. Kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 oblast a velmi pohostinn\u00ed lid\u00e9. Jak\u00fd kontrast s t\u00edm, co o Kurdist\u00e1nu sly\u0161\u00edme v na\u0161ich m\u00e9di\u00edch (t\u00fdk\u00e1 se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b cel\u00e9ho \u00cdr\u00e1nu). V 11 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme minibusem (35 000 Rials\/os.) do Sanandaje a odtud v 15 h busem do Zandjanu. Prvn\u00ed dva hotely jsou pln\u00e9, ve t\u0159et\u00edm se na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed chyt\u00e1me \u2013 Hotel Amir Kabir na Imam Khomeini street, jak jinak \ud83d\ude42 Pokoj op\u011bt s oknem do chodby, nav\u00edc bez z\u00e1chodu, zato pom\u011brn\u011b \u010dist\u00fd. Cel\u00fd den jsme nejedli, tak fi\u010d\u00edme do\u00a0vychvalovan\u00e9 restaurace Karavansa Sangi. Cestou nakukujeme do p\u00e1r obch\u016fdk\u016f se zdej\u0161\u00edmi vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fdmi no\u017ei, ceny za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed na 50 000 Rials a no\u017ee vypadaj\u00ed opravdu dob\u0159e, poctiv\u00e1 ru\u010dn\u00ed pr\u00e1ce.<\/p>\n<p>Budova restaurace Karavansa Sangri je 400 let star\u00e1, d\u0159\u00edve slou\u017eila jako zast\u00e1vka pro karavany velbloud\u016f, klenut\u00e9 stropy, m\u00edsta pro v\u00e1len\u00ed se na koberci i normaln\u00ed stoly. \u017div\u00e1 persk\u00e1 hudba dod\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edjemnou nikoliv k\u00fd\u010dovitou atmosf\u00e9ru. Kuchyn\u011b nezaost\u00e1v\u00e1, naopak. Sly\u0161el jsem, \u017ee m\u00edstn\u00ed specialitou je kashki bademjun, co\u017e by m\u011bla b\u00fdt ka\u0161e z \u201ceggplant\u201d. Jeliko\u017e toto anglick\u00e9 slovo nezn\u00e1m, tak Zuzce slibuji n\u011bco s vejci. Jak\u00e9 p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed, \u017ee vejce j\u00eddlo nevid\u011blo ani z rychl\u00edku. Eggplant je toti\u017e lilek\u00a0\ud83d\ude42 Nic to nem\u011bn\u00ed na tom, \u017ee j\u00eddlo je velmi chutn\u00e9 a pom\u011br cena\/v\u00fdkon op\u011bt v\u00fdborn\u00fd (s pit\u00edm plat\u00edme 275 000 Rials).<\/p>\n<p>Pomalu se lep\u0161\u00ed i na\u0161e jazykov\u00e1 vybavenost per\u0161tinou, i kdy\u017e sem tam se n\u011bjak\u00e9 to nedorozumn\u011bn\u00ed st\u00e1le vyskytne \u2013 nap\u0159. kdy\u017e \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edkovi \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m \u201ciranian beer\u201d, on to odk\u00fdv\u00e1, \u017ee je v\u0161e jasn\u00e9 a p\u0159inese mi kolu, pak \u0159eknu \u201csab zamini\u201d (brambory) a on p\u0159inese r\u00fd\u017ei, jindy zase Zuzka chce \u201cpotatoes\u201d a p\u0159inesou j\u00ed raj\u010data. Ale to jsou detaily \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den 4\/7\/2013 chceme jet do 120 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho Takht-e Soleiman, ale cena je 1 000 000 Rials za cestu tam a zp\u00e1tky. P\u0159ehodnocujeme pl\u00e1ny, nechce se n\u00e1m cel\u00fd den b\u00fdt na cest\u00e1ch a tak dne\u0161n\u00ed den v\u011bnujeme Zanjanu.<\/p>\n<p>Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me p\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161itou (Jameh mosque), pokra\u010dujeme prohl\u00eddkou rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9ho zast\u0159e\u0161en\u00e9ho bazaru a na hlavn\u00ed ulici (samoz\u0159ejm\u011b Imam Khomeini street) vyb\u00edr\u00e1me z nep\u0159ebern\u00e9ho mno\u017estv\u00ed kr\u00e1mk\u016f se zdej\u0161\u00edm nejtradi\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm artiklem \u2013 no\u017ei. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 je i dal\u0161\u00ed me\u0161ita Khanum mosque (kter\u00e1 je v pr\u016fvodci blb\u011b zna\u010dena) a me\u0161ita Rasul Ullah mosque u hlavn\u00edho n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (Engalab sq.), kter\u00e9 dominuj\u00ed dva extra vysok\u00e9 minarety. Ve\u010de\u0159\u00edme op\u011bt v osv\u011bd\u010den\u00e9 restauraci Karavansara Sangi. Tentokr\u00e1t si d\u00e1v\u00e1me abgusht (dizi), co\u017e je jehn\u011b\u010d\u00ed v\u00fdvar, cisrna, raj\u010de a brambora, kter\u00e1 se rozma\u010dk\u00e1 s\u00f3lo v hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i a poj\u00edd\u00e1 se s v\u00fdvarem. Kucha\u0159 op\u011bt exceloval a my velmi chv\u00e1l\u00edme.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>5\/7\/2013 \u2013 Kosmopolitn\u00ed TABRIZ<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_344\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-344\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_06.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-344 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_06-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_06\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_06-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_06.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-344\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dopravn\u00ed situace v Tabr\u00edzu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dopoledne se lou\u010d\u00edme se Zanjanem a st\u00edh\u00e1me je\u0161t\u011b hezkou me\u0161itu Seyid Ibrahim mosque. V poledne jsme na autobus\u00e1ku a ve 13 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme busem do Tabrizu. Spole\u010dnost n\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1 jeden mlad\u00fd zanjansk\u00fd pr\u00e1vn\u00edk. D\u00e1v\u00e1m mu do sluch\u00e1tek na poslech Black Sabbath a uznale pokyvuje. Naopl\u00e1tku mi d\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159edn\u00e1\u0161ku o r\u016fznorod\u00e9 persk\u00e9 hudb\u011b s praktick\u00fdmi uk\u00e1zkami. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 je pozorovat ub\u00edhaj\u00edc\u00ed krajinu. Z polopou\u0161tn\u00edho charakteru, kdy jedna barva st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 druhou d\u00edky r\u016fznorodosti nerost\u016f, se pomali\u010dku dost\u00e1v\u00e1me kone\u010dn\u011b i k zelen\u00fdm louk\u00e1m a pastvin\u00e1m. V Tabrizu jsme v 16:30 h, pr\u00e1vn\u00edk a jeho bratranec n\u00e1m pom\u00e1haj\u00ed naj\u00edt hotel. Chyt\u00e1me se a\u017e v p\u00e1t\u00e9m, \u010dty\u0159i jsou pln\u00e9. Ramsar hotel (samoz\u0159ejm\u011b na Imam Khomeini street) n\u00e1m nab\u00edz\u00ed celkem \u010dist\u00fd p\u011bti l\u016f\u017e\u00e1k se slu\u0161nou koupelnou na pokoji za 1 000 000 Rials. Vzhledem k situaci bereme v\u0161emi deseti, jedn\u00e1 se o n\u00e1\u0161 zat\u00edm nejlep\u0161\u00ed hotel. Nav\u00edc dnes budeme ve t\u0159ech, proto\u017ee v 19:30 h m\u00e1 dorazit kamar\u00e1dka Kl\u00e1ra z Tehranu na autobus\u00e1k a str\u00e1v\u00ed s n\u00e1mi dva dny (\u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fd v\u00edkend \u2013 p\u00e1tek a sobotu).<\/p>\n<p>Bohu\u017eel jsme se dopustili \u0161kol\u00e1ck\u00e9 chyby a na Kl\u00e1ru \u010dek\u00e1me na autobusov\u00e9m termin\u00e1lu sice ve spr\u00e1vn\u00fd \u010das ale na blb\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b. Holt Tabriz se sv\u00fdmi 1,5 mil. obyvatel nem\u00e1 jen jeden autobus\u00e1k a \u010dekat na \u010dlov\u011bka na Zli\u010d\u00edn\u011b, kdy\u017e p\u0159ijede na \u010cern\u00fd Most, je prost\u011b blbost i v Praze \ud83d\ude42 Mobiln\u00ed telefonie je v\u0161ak z\u00e1zrak a tak se ji\u017e ve 20:30 h setk\u00e1v\u00e1me k velk\u00e9 radosti v\u0161ech z\u016f\u010dastn\u011bn\u00fdch. Jakoby v\u0161ak sm\u016fla byla na n\u00e1s dneska opravdu p\u0159ilepen\u00e1 \u2013 oslava setk\u00e1n\u00ed se kon\u00e1 ve \u0161patn\u00e9 a nav\u00edc drah\u00e9 restauraci. Tak snad z\u00edtra bude l\u00e9pe a seznamov\u00e1n\u00ed s kosmopolitn\u00edm Tabr\u00edzem se vyda\u0159\u00ed. Ji\u017e dnes jsme poznali, \u017ee toto t\u0159et\u00ed nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 m\u011bsto na severoz\u00e1pad\u011b zem\u011b je minim\u00e1ln\u011b co do obl\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed \u017een liber\u00e1ln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e \u0159ada m\u00edst, kter\u00e9 jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili dosud (nap\u0159. minimum \u017een m\u00e1 na sob\u011b \u010dern\u00fd \u010d\u00e1dor).<\/p>\n<h3><strong>6-7\/7\/2013 \u2013 KANDOVAN \u2013 vesnice vydlaban\u00e1 ve sk\u00e1le<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_345\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-345\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_07.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-345 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_07-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_07\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_07-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_07.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-345\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kandovan – vesnice vydlaban\u00e1 ve sk\u00e1le.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dopoledne tr\u00e1v\u00edme prohl\u00eddkou Tabrizu. B\u00e1gly nech\u00e1v\u00e1me na hotelu. Anglican church jako uk\u00e1zka existuj\u00edc\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 minority je zven\u010d\u00ed zaj\u00edmav\u00fd, ale bohu\u017eel zav\u0159en\u00fd. Kousek d\u00e1le je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 obrovsk\u00e1 br\u00e1na Arch-e Tabriz ze 14. st. n. l., ze kter\u00e9 byli schazov\u00e1ni zlo\u010dinci (tipuji 60 m v\u00fd\u0161ka, tak\u017ee dost bez \u0161anc\u00ed). Proch\u00e1z\u00edme kolem nov\u00e9 p\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161ity a c\u00edlem je Blue mosque (Modr\u00e1 me\u0161ita). Jedn\u00e1 se o nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed magnet Tabrizu \u2013 prostorn\u00e1 me\u0161ita z roku 1465 p\u0159e\u017eila velk\u00e9 zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed, kter\u00e9 zni\u010dilo v\u011bt\u0161inu m\u011bsta v roce 1727, ale bohu\u017eel byla z velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti zbo\u0159ena men\u0161\u00edm zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00edm v roce 1773. V roce 1951 za\u010dala rozs\u00e1hl\u00e1 rekonstrukce do p\u016fvodn\u00ed podoby.<\/p>\n<p>Zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 je Municipal hall postaven\u00e1 v n\u011bmeck\u00e9 stylu, co\u017e zde p\u016fsob\u00ed jako p\u011bst na oko. D\u00e1le star\u00e1 po\u017e\u00e1rn\u00ed v\u011b\u017e a Poet\u00b4s mausoleum. Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed tabrizskou kapitolou je extr\u00e9mn\u011b velk\u00fd zast\u0159e\u0161en\u00fd bazar. Zde si kupujeme tortilu pln\u011bnou bramborou, vaj\u00ed\u010dkem a ko\u0159en\u00edm. \u010clov\u011bk by nev\u011b\u0159il, kolik to ud\u011bl\u00e1 radosti \u2013 brambory jsme nevid\u011bli hodn\u011b dlouho a nav\u00edc m\u00e1me opravdu hlad. P\u0159i\u0161lo hodn\u011b k chuti.<\/p>\n<p>Odpoledne m\u00e1me napl\u00e1novanou cestu do Kandovanu \u2013 velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 vesni\u010dky asi 1,5 h cesty z Tabrizu, odkud poch\u00e1z\u00ed sv\u011btozn\u00e1m\u00e9 kandovan\u00e9 ovoce \ud83d\ude42 Krom\u011b toho je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 z toho d\u016fvodu, \u017ee p\u0159\u00edbytky maj\u00ed domorodci vytesan\u00e9 do slepencov\u00fdch skaln\u00edch v\u011b\u017e\u00ed, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed obrovsk\u00e9 porce to\u010den\u00e9 zmrzliny. Po lehk\u00fdch peripeti\u00edch v Tabrizu s hled\u00e1n\u00edm spoje do Kandovanu a v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 snaze \u00cdr\u00e1nc\u016f pomoci n\u00e1m \u2013 cizinc\u016fm v \u010demkoliv, se m\u00edstn\u00ed dopravou (minibusem do Osku \u2013 30 000 Rials, a d\u00e1le taxikem \u2013 150 000 Rials) dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do na\u0161eho dne\u0161n\u00edho c\u00edle.<\/p>\n<p>Podle fotek je Kandovan \u00fa\u017easn\u00fd, v re\u00e1lu je\u0161t\u011b daleko lep\u0161\u00ed. Domlouv\u00e1me si ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v jedn\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed jesky\u0148ce \u2013 typick\u00e9m dome\u010dku vydlaban\u00e9m ve slepenci a jdeme na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed str\u00e1\u0148. Te\u010f v zapadaj\u00edc\u00edm slunci je Kandovan ide\u00e1ln\u011b fotogenick\u00fd pr\u00e1v\u011b odtud. Ve\u010der super ve\u010de\u0159e abgusht (dizi), kter\u00fd zn\u00e1me ze Zanjanu, v zahradn\u00ed restauraci a v m\u00edstn\u00ed \u201cputice\u201d si kone\u010dn\u011b dop\u0159\u00e1v\u00e1me pravou \u00edr\u00e1nskou vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmku (40 000 Rials). Spole\u010dnost n\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1 jeden t\u00fdpek z Bandar Abbas \u2013 rozen\u00fd komik, kter\u00e9ho u\u010d\u00edme s rozporn\u00fdmi v\u00fdsledky \u010desk\u00fd jazyk, a dva borci z Pakist\u00e1nu. Oni neum\u00ed anglicky, my neum\u00edme farsi, ale z\u00e1bava je velik\u00e1 na obou stran\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no sn\u00edd\u00e1me v zahradn\u00ed restauraci, pot\u00e9 proch\u00e1zka za vesnici ke star\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edbytk\u016fm v jeskyn\u00edch, kter\u00e9 u\u017e nejsou obydlen\u00e9 nebo slou\u017e\u00ed dom\u00e1c\u00edm zv\u00ed\u0159at\u016fm. Slunce dnes p\u00e1l\u00ed snad je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce ne\u017e obvykle.<\/p>\n<p>Ve 14 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z Kandovanu, kter\u00fd se n\u00e1m opravdu moc l\u00edbil, s jednou bohat\u0161\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1nskou rodinou, kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 pronajat\u00fd transit do Osku a odtud ji\u017e \u0159\u00e1dnou m\u00edstn\u00ed dopravou \u2013 minibusem do Tabrizu. Zde se lou\u010d\u00edme s Kl\u00e1rou, kter\u00e1 let\u00ed do Tehranu, my se Zuzkou pokra\u010dujeme busem (40 000 Rials\/os) na sever k \u00edr\u00e1nsko-azerbajd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00fdm hranic\u00edm do m\u011bsta Jolfa.<\/p>\n<p>P\u0159ed 19 h p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Hagi Sharu, odtud je\u0161t\u011b 10 km taxikem do Jolfy. M\u011bsto je to hrozn\u00e9, jsme r\u00e1di, \u017ee v\u016fbec nal\u00e9z\u00e1me v tomto zapad\u00e1kov\u011b ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v hotelu Azerbaijan \u2013 double room za 200 000 Rials, cena odpov\u00edd\u00e1, \u0161pinav\u00fd z\u00e1chod a sprcha na pat\u0159e. Jolfa je dnes mal\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edhrani\u010dn\u00ed m\u011bsto, cel\u00e9 rozkopan\u00e9, mo\u017en\u00e1 za p\u00e1r let \u2013 a\u017e to, co je dnes rozkopan\u00e9, bude dod\u011blan\u00e9 \u2013 nebude p\u016fsobit tak hroziv\u011b jako dnes. Historick\u00e1 zaj\u00edmavost: kr\u00e1l Abbas v roce 1604 p\u0159es\u00eddlil m\u00edstn\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165anskou komunitu do Esfah\u00e1nu, kde tito lid\u00e9 vybudovali dodnes existuj\u00edc\u00ed \u010dtvr\u0165 Jolfa (nav\u0161t\u00edvili jsme minul\u00fd rok v\u010detn\u011b esfah\u00e1nsk\u00fdch k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fdch kostel\u016f).<\/p>\n<h3><strong>8\/7\/2013 \u2013 Arm\u00e9nsk\u00fd k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fd kostel ST. STEPHANOS<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_346\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-346\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_08.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-346 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_08-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_08\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_08-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_08.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-346\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">K\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fd kostel\u00edk na \u00edr\u00e1nsko-azerbajd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00fdch hranic\u00edch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>R\u00e1no se rychle bal\u00edme a vylo\u017een\u011b posp\u00edch\u00e1me z nesympatick\u00e9ho hotelu Azerbaijan a cel\u00e9 nesympatick\u00e9 Jolfy. Taxikem jedeme k arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9mu kostelu v hor\u00e1ch nad \u00fadol\u00edm hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159eky Aras \u2013 St. Stephanos \u2013 kv\u016fli kter\u00e9mu jsme do t\u011bchto kon\u010din jeli. Kostel je asi 20 km od Jolfy (taxi tam a zp\u011bt 300 000 Rials), je nov\u011b zrekonstruov\u00e1n (2008) a vstup je pro cizince 100 000 Rials. Stoj\u00ed to za to, stavba je to velmi poveden\u00e1 a v horsk\u00e9 scen\u00e9rii p\u016fsob\u00ed \u00fa\u017easn\u011b a\u017e magicky. Prvn\u00ed zm\u00ednky poch\u00e1z\u00ed z roku 62 n. l., dne\u0161n\u00ed podoba je ze 14. st. n. l. Cel\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159eky Aras je \u00fachvatn\u00e9. Cestou zp\u00e1tky do Jolfy n\u00e1m taxik\u00e1\u0159 ukazuje je\u0161t\u011b jeden men\u0161\u00ed kostel\u00ed\u010dek.<\/p>\n<p>Z Jolfy rychle zp\u00e1tky do Hagi Sharu a odtud chyt\u00e1me bus do Tabrizu. Pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1le a\u017e do Qazv\u00ednu (VIP bus, 6 h j\u00edzdy, 260 000 Rials\/os), kde jsme v 20 h pom\u011brn\u011b dost znaveni. Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se v nov\u011b zrekonstruovan\u00e9m hotelu Khaksar v Khaleqi Alley hned u hlavn\u00ed Talegani street (300 000 Rials\/double room). Pom\u011br cena\/v\u00fdkon zat\u00edm nejlep\u0161\u00ed, ur\u010dit\u011b doporu\u010dujeme, velice \u010dist\u00e9 z\u00e1chody a sprchy na pat\u0159e, stejn\u011b tak samotn\u00e9 pokoje a chodby. Cel\u00fd den jsme nejedli, tak jdeme na ve\u010de\u0159i do pom\u011brn\u011b drah\u00e9 ale dobr\u00e9 restaurace Eghbali kousek od na\u0161eho hotelu. M\u00edstn\u00ed specialita gheymeh nasser \u2013 n\u011bco jako jehn\u011b\u010d\u00ed gul\u00e1\u0161 s pist\u00e1ciemi a r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed s brusinkami je chutn\u00fd.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>9\/7\/2013 \u2013 QAZV\u00cdN<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_347\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-347\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_09.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-347 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_09-300x167.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_09\" width=\"300\" height=\"167\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_09-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_09.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-347\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Qazv\u00edn.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed Qazv\u00ednu za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me kostelem Kantur Church nedaleko na\u0161eho hotelu, pak se p\u011b\u0161ky p\u0159esouv\u00e1me p\u0159es Amineh Khatun Shrine (st\u0159edn\u011b velk\u00e1 hrobka n\u011bjak\u00e9ho v\u00fdznamn\u00e9ho m\u00edstn\u00edho muslima ze 14. st. n. l.) na jihov\u00fdchodn\u00ed okraj m\u011bsta, kde je mal\u00e1 Tehran Gate. V Qazv\u00ednu je n\u011bkolik star\u00fdch z\u00e1sob\u00e1ren vody. Jednu z nich \u2013 Sardar Big Cistern si prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme na jihu m\u011bsta, nedaleko rozhlehl\u00e9 p\u011bkn\u00e9 hrobky Imamzadeh-ye Hossein. P\u0159ed n\u00ed je h\u0159bitov qazv\u00ednsk\u00fdch ob\u011bt\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1nsko-\u00edr\u00e1ck\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. P\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161ita nen\u00ed niktera atraktivn\u00ed, ale z\u00e1chody se hod\u00ed. N\u00e1sleduje qazv\u00ednsk\u00fd bazar, op\u011bt velk\u00fd a zast\u0159e\u0161en\u00fd. Uvnit\u0159 v restauraci Nobahar si d\u00e1v\u00e1me m\u00edstn\u00ed pol\u00e9vku a sal\u00e1t s chlebem k ob\u011bdu. S bazarem soused\u00ed Nabi mosque. Jdeme pro batohy do hotelu a p\u0159esouv\u00e1me se na autobus\u00e1k a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm star\u00fdm Mercedesem (snad pamatuje je\u0161t\u011b \u0161\u00e1ha) odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 15:30 h do Tehranu.<\/p>\n<p>V podve\u010dern\u00edm slunci st\u00edh\u00e1me je\u0161t\u011b nafotit tehranskou ikonu Azadi Tower \u2013 betonov\u00fd monolit skoro 100 m vysok\u00fd. Metrem na Tajrish, taxikem k Niavaran Parku. Taxik\u00e1\u0159i se nel\u00edb\u00ed, \u017ee 80 000 Rials chci platit 500 000 Rials bankovkou, holt jinou nem\u00e1m. Sv\u00fdm arogantn\u00edm chov\u00e1n\u00edm m\u011b tak nasral, \u017ee jsem m\u011bl sto chut\u00ed mu jednu nap\u00e1lit (za celou dobu jedin\u00fd kokot, v\u0161ichni ostatn\u00ed n\u00e1m cht\u011bj\u00ed pomoci, cht\u011bj\u00ed se s n\u00e1mi bavit, a\u017e je to ob\u010das \u00fanavn\u00e9), ale nakonec v\u0161e dob\u0159e dopadlo a v 20 h jsme zp\u00e1tky v azylu u Kl\u00e1ry.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>10\/7\/013 \u2013 Za\u010d\u00e1tek Ramad\u00e1nu v QOMU<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_356\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-356\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_131.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-356 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_131-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_13\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_131-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_131.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-356\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Druh\u00e9 nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto \u00cdr\u00e1nu – svat\u00e9 m\u011bsto Qom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dnes za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 Ramad\u00e1n, tak jsme ho u Kl\u00e1ry oslavili vydatnou sn\u00eddan\u00ed \ud83d\ude42 Jedeme do Kashanu a cestou se stavujeme v Qomu \u2013 m\u011bsto zhruba 1 h ji\u017en\u011b od Tehranu, kde se rozho\u0159ela v roce 1978 isl\u00e1msk\u00e1 revoluce. Na poutn\u00edky se ramadan nevztahuje, co\u017e vid\u00edme na autobusov\u00e9m termin\u00e1lu Jonoob na jihu Tehranu. Ve zdej\u0161\u00edm fastfoodov\u00e9m st\u00e1nku je narv\u00e1no a mysl\u00edm si, \u017ee tu na kus dlabance nestoj\u00ed jen cestuj\u00edc\u00ed \ud83d\ude42 Cesta do Qomu trv\u00e1 asi 1,5 hodiny a d\u00e1lnice proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed pou\u0161t\u00ed Dasht-e Kavir, vid\u011bt je i slan\u00e9 jezero Hoz-e Soltan. Qom m\u00e1 tak\u0159ka 1 mil. obyvatel a je nejrychleji se rozv\u00edjej\u00edc\u00edm \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fdm s\u00eddlem, od revoluce se po\u010det obyvatel zdvojn\u00e1sobil. S\u00eddl\u00ed zde n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00e9 \u0161koly a vlivn\u00e1 klika klerik\u016f, kter\u00e1 vl\u00e1dne zemi (v \u010dele s ajatoll\u00e1hem Khamene\u00edm). Hodn\u011b lid\u00ed m\u011b od n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy Qomu odrazovalo, \u017ee tu nen\u00ed co k vid\u011bn\u00ed a na lidech je tu zn\u00e1t, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o hodn\u011b ortodoxn\u00ed a konzervativn\u00ed m\u011bsto. Opak je pravdou! M\u011bsto rozhodn\u011b m\u00e1 co nab\u00eddnout.<\/p>\n<p>Qom je pro \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 \u0161\u00editsk\u00e9 muslimy druh\u00e9 nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto d\u00edky tomu, \u017ee v 9. st. n. l. zde zem\u0159ela Fatemeh \u2013 sestra 8. im\u00e1ma Rezy (ten je poh\u0159ben v Mashhadu \u2013 \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto). Jej\u00ed qomsk\u00e1 hrobka Hazrat-e Masumeh je sice o n\u011bco men\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e mashhadsk\u00e1 hrobka Haram-e Razavi, ale co do kr\u00e1sy se j\u00ed rozhodn\u011b vyrovn\u00e1. Jedn\u00e1 se o obrovsk\u00fd komplex n\u011bkolika me\u0161it a dvorc\u016f, kam den co den p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed tis\u00edce \u0160\u00edit\u016f vzd\u00e1t holt Fatemeh \u2013 p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9mu potomku proroka Mohameda.<\/p>\n<p>Samotn\u00e9 m\u011bsto mi rovn\u011b\u017e p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Mashhadu z minul\u00e9ho roku. M\u00edsto je rozhodn\u011b konzervativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e zbytek \u00edr\u00e1nu, ale nikterak \u0161patn\u00fd pocit to ve m\u011b nevzbuzuje. Zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e1 koncentrace klerik\u016f (duchovn\u00edch) s dlouh\u00fdmi vousy, turbanem a ko\u0161il\u00ed po kotn\u00edky, \u017eeny tak\u0159ka v\u00fdhradn\u011b v \u010dern\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1dorech.<\/p>\n<p>Nen\u00ed to na cel\u00fd den, ale rozhodn\u011b jsem r\u00e1d, \u017ee jsme Qom kr\u00e1tce nav\u0161t\u00edvili. Na\u0161e cesta pokra\u010duje d\u00e1le na jih do Kashanu.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>11\/7\/2013 \u2013 KASHAN<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_348\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-348\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_11.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-348 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_11-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_11\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_11-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_11.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-348\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 pou\u0161tn\u00ed m\u011bsto Kashan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bsto Kashan objevujeme druh\u00fd a t\u0159et\u00ed den Ramad\u00e1nu. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed si dop\u0159\u00e1v\u00e1me ve stylov\u00e9m hotelu Khan-e Ehsan (www.ehsanhouse.com) ve star\u00e9m hlin\u011bn\u00e9m dom\u011b je skv\u011bl\u00e1 volba. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed hotel na na\u0161\u00ed leto\u0161n\u00ed cest\u011b po Persii. \u010cist\u00fd z\u00e1chod se sprchou hned vedle na chodb\u011b, samotn\u00fd pokoj upraven\u00fd, cena 700 000 Rials\/double room se sn\u00eddan\u00ed (double room se soc. za\u0159. za 1 000 000 Rials). Jen v noci je opravdu velk\u00e9 teplo, proto\u017ee klimatizace d\u011bl\u00e1 velk\u00fd r\u00e1mus a proto ji m\u00e1me vypnutou. Kashan hodn\u011b p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 Yazd \u2013 hlin\u011bn\u00e9 m\u011bsto uprost\u0159ed pou\u0161t\u011b s romantick\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami, pro n\u00e1s St\u0159edoevropany hodn\u011b exotick\u00e9. Po p\u0159\u00edjezdu z Qomu st\u00edh\u00e1me ve\u010der n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Masjad-e Agha Bozorg \u2013 velk\u00e1 me\u0161ita z 19. st. n. l. s osov\u011b soum\u011brn\u00fdm zdoben\u00edm a velk\u00fdm pod\u00farov\u0148ov\u00fdm n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00edm.<\/p>\n<p>Druh\u00fd den po v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00e9 sn\u00eddani v na\u0161em hotelu jdeme pozn\u00e1vat kashansk\u00e9 skvosty. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me na jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b m\u011bsta kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm a dob\u0159e udr\u017eovan\u00fdm rodinn\u00fdm domem Khan-e Tabatabei z roku 1880 a hned vedle me\u0161ita Imamzadeh-ye Sultan Mir Ahmad. Dal\u0161\u00ed dva rodinn\u00e9 pal\u00e1ce (Khan-e Borujerdi a Khan-e Abbasian) jsou hned vedle. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 jsou 500 let star\u00e9 l\u00e1zn\u011b Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad a hlavn\u011b jejich st\u0159echa ze kter\u00e9 je vid\u011bt z v\u00fd\u0161ky \u010d\u00e1st Kashanu. Kousek odtud jsou star\u00e9 m\u011bstsk\u00e9 hradby.<\/p>\n<p>Slunce pe\u010de, je poledne a my se schov\u00e1v\u00e1me ve v\u0161ech mo\u017en\u00fdch stinn\u00fdch m\u00edstech. Zdej\u0161\u00ed prostorn\u00fd kryt\u00fd bazar si proch\u00e1z\u00edme v \u010dase odpoledn\u00ed siesty, tak\u0159ka v\u0161echny obch\u016fdky jsou zav\u0159en\u00e9, v \u010d\u00e1sti z nich sami prodejci chr\u00e1pou na zemi, uli\u010dky jsou pr\u00e1zdn\u00e9, jen sem tam n\u011bkdo projede na motorce nebo projde p\u011b\u0161ky. M\u00e1 to sv\u00e9 kouzlo. Lou\u010d\u00edme se s kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm Kashanem, moc se n\u00e1m tu l\u00edbilo a lid\u00e9 tu byly obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 mil\u00ed a usm\u011bvav\u00ed, nikoliv vlezl\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p>Autobusem odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 15 h do Tehranu. Cestou do Kl\u00e1\u0159ina bytu na severu m\u011bsta se stavujeme je\u0161t\u011b v centru. Nas\u00e1v\u00e1me zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru u b\u00fdval\u00e9ho americk\u00e9ho velvyslanectv\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se stalo sv\u011bdkem dramatick\u00e9ho p\u0159epaden\u00ed v revolu\u010dn\u00edm podzimu 1979 a n\u00e1sledn\u00e9ho 444 dn\u00ed trvaj\u00edc\u00edho dr\u017een\u00ed americk\u00fdch rukojm\u00edch \u2013 pracovn\u00edk\u016f ambas\u00e1dy. Dodnes jsou na zdi propagandistick\u00e9 protiamerick\u00e9 symboly, kter\u00e9 si opatrn\u011b fot\u00edm. Je\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 komick\u00e9 intermezzo s taxik\u00e1\u0159em, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s odv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed z Tajrishe k Nyavaran parku. Nel\u00edb\u00ed se mu, \u017ee plat\u00edm 80 000 Rials bankovkou 500 000 Rials. Jinou bankovku nem\u00e1m. Zjevn\u011b jsme natrefili na jednoho z m\u00e1la kokot\u016f. Na\u0161e dohadov\u00e1n\u00ed je bou\u0159liv\u00e9 a v jednu chv\u00edli to vypad\u00e1 na p\u011bstn\u00ed souboj, ale p\u0159eci ze sebe nebudu d\u011blat vola. K m\u00e9mu velk\u00e9mu \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed (kokot m\u00e1 asi tak dvakr\u00e1t tolik kg co j\u00e1) k boji nedoch\u00e1z\u00ed a rozch\u00e1z\u00edme se pouze hlu\u010dn\u00fdmi nad\u00e1vkami (j\u00e1 \u010desky, on persky).<\/p>\n<h3><strong>12\/7\/2013 \u2013 Khoda hafez –\u00a0TEHRAN<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_350\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-350\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_12.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-350 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_12-300x215.jpg\" alt=\"iran2013_12\" width=\"300\" height=\"215\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_12-300x215.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2013_12.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-350\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ze\u010f b\u00fdval\u00e9 americk\u00e9 ambas\u00e1dy v Teher\u00e1nu zdob\u00ed propagandistick\u00e9 obr\u00e1zky proti Z\u00e1padu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Posledn\u00ed den na\u0161eho pobytu v \u00cdr\u00e1nu, bohu\u017eel. S Kl\u00e1rou a Honzou nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme muzejn\u00ed komplex Sa\u00b4d Abad na severu Tehranu. P\u0159ed jedn\u00edm ze zdej\u0161\u00edch pal\u00e1c\u016f (White palace) z roku 1931 je torzo sochy Rezy \u0160\u00e1ha \u2013 otce Mohammada Rezy \u0160\u00e1ha a zakladatele kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e9 dynastie Pahlavi \u2013 p\u0159es 2 m vysok\u00e9 vojensk\u00e9 boty, socha byla zni\u010dena b\u011bhem isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 revoluce. Odpoledne tr\u00e1v\u00edme v Nyavaran palace, kde rodina posledn\u00edho \u0161\u00e1ha bydlela do posledn\u00edch dn\u00ed p\u0159ed odletem do exilu 16. ledna 1979. Budova pal\u00e1ce poch\u00e1z\u00ed z 60. let 20. st. a jedn\u00e1 se o kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 linie funkcionalismu. Vevnit\u0159 ohromuje n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky obrovsk\u00fd vstupn\u00ed s\u00e1l a kolem jsou pokoje, kde rodina bydlela. V\u0161e je tak\u0159ka beze zm\u011bny od \u00fat\u011bku rodiny Pahlavi v roce 1979 a je vid\u011bt, \u017ee Mohammad Reza \u0160\u00e1h a jeho \u017eena Farah Diba vid\u011bli vzor v Evrop\u011b a Americe. Tomu odpov\u00edd\u00e1 i sb\u00edrka obraz\u016f, kter\u00e9 kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e1 rodina z\u00edskala p\u0159i zahrani\u010dn\u00edch n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u00e1ch a jsou zde k vid\u011bn\u00ed (Picasso, Warhol, Mir\u00f3, Dal\u00ed).<\/p>\n<p>\u00cdr\u00e1n a \u00cdr\u00e1nci n\u00e1m uk\u00e1zali ji\u017e podruh\u00e9 sv\u00e9 \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 kouzlo. Tahle zem\u011b a zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 si m\u011b prost\u011b z\u00edskali a hodn\u011b m\u011b bav\u00ed. Persie a Per\u0161an\u00e9 maj\u00ed v m\u00e9m srdci v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 m\u00edsto.<\/p>\n<p><em>Khoda hafez \/ Nashledanou<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u010cl\u00e1nek ve zkr\u00e1cen\u00e9 verzi vy\u0161el\u00a0v P\u011bn\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m Zpravodaji 12\/2013 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2013_pencinskyzpravodaj.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">zde<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/fotky.zdenda.net\/2013-Iran\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/propagace\/\">Propagace<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-rady-postrehy-ceny\/\">M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>FOTOGALERIE\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Propagace\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n 25-27\/6\/2013 \u2013 Salam aleikum \u2013 TEHRAN, TOCHAL Cesta z Prahy p\u0159es Minsk do Tehranu byla v pohod\u011b, v Minsku jsme degustovali m\u00edstn\u00ed pivka a na leti\u0161ti Imama Khomeiniho jsme p\u0159ist\u00e1li dnes r\u00e1no v 03:40 h. Jeliko\u017e v\u00edza m\u00e1me za\u0159\u00edzen\u00e9 ji\u017e z Prahy, tak jsme \u0161li rovnou k pasov\u00e9 kontrole a bez … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">\u00cdr\u00e1n – severoz\u00e1pad zem\u011b, Kurdist\u00e1n 2013<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">→<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2013-kurdistan-hamadan-sanandaj-howraman-zanjan-kashan\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-258","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopisy","category-clanky","category-svet"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-4a","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/258","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=258"}],"version-history":[{"count":32,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/258\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2170,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/258\/revisions\/2170"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=258"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=258"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=258"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}