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{"id":248,"date":"2013-10-18T12:01:30","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T12:01:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=248"},"modified":"2014-02-16T08:49:04","modified_gmt":"2014-02-16T08:49:04","slug":"iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00cdr\u00e1n – poprv\u00e9 v Persii 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"mashhad1\"$ <\/p>\n

FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Propagace<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Na\u0161\u00edm pl\u00e1nem na jaro 2012 je n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Ir\u00e1nu<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>\u017d\u00e1dost o v\u00edza jsem pod\u00e1val na pra\u017esk\u00e9 amb\u00e1s\u00e1d\u011b Ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 republiky 20. \u00fanora 2012. Bohu\u017eel do odletu jsme v\u00edza nedostali, tak\u017ee jsme zbyte\u010dn\u011b p\u0159i\u0161ly o 50 \u20ac\/osobu. Riskneme to s \u017e\u00e1dost\u00ed o v\u00edza p\u0159\u00edmo na leti\u0161ti v Tehranu.<br \/>\nPl\u00e1novan\u00fd odlet: 21. dubna 2012 z V\u00eddn\u011b p\u0159es Ankaru do Tehranu<br \/>\nPl\u00e1novan\u00fd p\u0159\u00edlet: 10. kv\u011btna 2012<\/p>\n<h3><strong>22-23\/4\/2012 Tehran, Tochal<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_511\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-511\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-511\" alt=\"iran2012_1\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_1-300x204.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_1-300x204.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_1.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-511\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teher\u00e1n.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>S radost\u00ed se hl\u00e1s\u00edme z Tehranu. Dnes r\u00e1no v 03:30 h m\u00edstn\u00edho \u010dasu jsme p\u0159ist\u00e1li na tehransk\u00e9m leti\u0161ti a u\u017e za necelou hodinu jsme z\u00edskali v\u00edza na 15 dn\u00ed \/50 EUR na osobu\/. Tak\u017ee n\u00e1s bude je\u0161t\u011b \u010dekat prodlou\u017een\u00ed, proto\u017ee zp\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed letenku m\u00e1me na 10\/5\/2012. Tax\u00edkem jsme se dostali do p\u0159edem po mailu zabookovan\u00e9ho hotelu Mashhad na Amir Kabir Street, rezervace funguje, ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00e1me. Cel\u00e9 dopoledne jsme prospali, proto\u017ee \u00fanava po cestov\u00e1n\u00ed byla velik\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>Po poledni jsme za\u010dali objevovat Tehran. Metro je jednoduch\u00e9 a rychl\u00e9, ve \u0161pi\u010dce hodn\u011b nacpan\u00e9. Objevili jsme pro n\u00e1s zcela nov\u00fd sport \u2013 p\u0159eb\u00edhan\u00ed \u010dty\u0159 (i v\u00edce) proud\u00e9 silnice, kde v\u0161ichni jedou jak o \u017eivot. Opravdu z\u00e1\u017eitek. Ochutnali jsme m\u00edstn\u00ed pivo, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b \u201cnon alcoholic\u201d, je to takov\u00e1 ovocn\u00e1 limon\u00e1da v\u0161ech chut\u00ed (jako u n\u00e1s Bernard \u0160vestka atd.). Zaj\u00edmav\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek je vid\u011bt b\u00fdvalou US ambas\u00e1du, kde p\u0159ed 33 lety ir\u00e1n\u0161t\u00ed student\u0161t\u00ed revolucion\u00e1\u0159i dr\u017eeli jako rukojm\u00ed 56 americk\u00fdch pracovn\u00edk\u016f ambas\u00e1dy 1,5 roku. Na zdech b\u00fdval\u00e9 ambas\u00e1dy jsou st\u00e1le nakreslena protiamerick\u00e1 hesla. Po\u010das\u00ed je super, +30\u00b0C, slune\u010dno. Alespo\u0148 tady v Tehranu to p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm mlad\u00ed zase tak nehrot\u00ed, u\u017e jsme jich p\u00e1r vid\u011bli jak se vod\u00ed za ruce. \u0160\u00e1tky tu holky maj\u00ed hlavn\u011b jako m\u00f3dn\u00ed dopln\u011bk, kter\u00fd je opravdu dokonale zdob\u00ed. Zuza si koupila dva kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 \u0161\u00e1tky a praktick\u00fd a m\u00f3dn\u00ed drdol (clips pofi), \u010dern\u00fd \u0161\u00e1tek p\u0159es hlavu a krk (maghnaeh), kter\u00fd j\u00ed moc slu\u0161\u00ed a j\u00e1 mapu Tehranu, tak\u017ee nyn\u00ed nem\u00e1me probl\u00e9m cokoliv naj\u00edt \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Prvn\u00ed den ve\u010der jsme str\u00e1vili v Park-e Laleh, co\u017e je velk\u00fd p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd park v centru Tehranu, kde je mo\u017enost sportovn\u00edho vy\u017eit\u00ed i relaxu. S \u00edr\u00e1nskou omladinou jsem si zapinkal volejbal a nakonec jsme s nimi skon\u010dili na zmrzlin\u011b v cukr\u00e1rn\u011b. Velmi p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00ed mla\u010fo\u0161i, dva kluci a dv\u011b holky. Nejen z nich mi n\u011bjak v\u016fbec nep\u0159ijde, \u017ee by tu byly \u017eeny n\u011bjak utla\u010dovan\u00e9, to opravdu ne. Prav\u011b naopak, pohledn\u00e1 Shiva to cel\u00e9 \u0159\u00e1dn\u011b dirigovala. \u00cdranci jsou k cizinc\u016fm mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u00ed a moc r\u00e1di se s nimi d\u00e1vaj\u00ed do \u0159e\u010di. Prakticky se ned\u00e1 uj\u00edt del\u0161\u00ed kus po ulici, ani\u017e by V\u00e1s n\u011bkdo neoslovil.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den se p\u0159esouv\u00e1me metrem na sever Tehranu do \u010dtvrti Tajrish a tax\u00edkem d\u00e1le ke stanici lanovky (1900m) na v\u00fdletn\u00ed kopec Tochal \/3960m\/. Lanovka je bohu\u017eel zav\u0159en\u00e1 (v provozu od st\u0159edy do p\u00e1tku). Lehkou proch\u00e1zkou se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me k druh\u00e9 stanici (2500m). Zde za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 siln\u011b foukat a lehce pr\u0161et, sm\u011brem d\u00e1le do hor je dost zamra\u010deno a sn\u011b\u017e\u00ed. Ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme to a sb\u00edh\u00e1me zp\u00e1tky do Tehranu a\u017e na metro.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>24-25\/4\/2012 Kaspick\u00e9 mo\u0159e, Babolsar<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_512\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-512\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-512\" alt=\"iran2012_2\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_2-300x174.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_2-300x174.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_2.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-512\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kaspick\u00e9 mo\u0159e u Babolsaru.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Bal\u00edme se v hotelu, j\u00e1 jdu vym\u011bnit je\u0161t\u011b pen\u00edze (1 USD = 17 650 Rials = 1 765 Tomans, tzn. zjednodu\u0161en\u011b 1 000 Rials = 1 K\u010d) a metrem a tax\u00edkem fi\u010d\u00edme na Tehran Bus Terminal East. Zde m\u00e1m mo\u017enost zapojit do praxe svou brilantn\u00ed ru\u0161tinu, proto\u017ee angli\u010dtinu tu zrovna te\u010f nikdo neovl\u00e1d\u00e1 a rusky um\u00ed dispe\u010der.<\/p>\n<p>B\u011bhem chv\u00edle sed\u00edme v autobuse a j\u00edzdenku m\u00e1me do horsk\u00e9 vesnice Reyneh p\u0159\u00edmo pod Damavandem (40 000 Rials\/osobu). \u010c\u00edm bl\u00ed\u017e do hor, t\u00edm se v\u00fdrazn\u011b hor\u0161\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed, viditelnost 100 m a p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed to a\u017e v regul\u00e9rn\u00ed chumelenici i v autobuse (bohu\u017eel sed\u00edm pod pootev\u0159en\u00fdm st\u0159e\u0161n\u00edm ok\u00e9nkem, kter\u00e9 nejde zav\u0159\u00edt). Za t\u00e9to situace se n\u00e1m ven opravdu nechce.<\/p>\n<p>Kdy\u017e na n\u00e1s stevard pokyvuje, ze n\u00e1\u0161 \u010das p\u0159isel, tak se ho sna\u017e\u00edm p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit, \u017ee jsme zm\u011bnili plan\u00fd a \u017ee pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l a\u017e na kone\u010dnou ke Kaspick\u00e9mu mo\u0159i. On v\u016fbec nech\u00e1pe, kter\u00e1 bije, ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed pan\u00ed p\u0159es uli\u010dku um\u00ed anglicky a tak mi tlumo\u010d\u00ed. Bez probl\u00e9mu si dokupujeme za 25 000 Rials\/hlavu cestu ke Kaspiku. Vypad\u00e1 to (a lid\u00e9 to potvrzuj\u00ed), \u017ee duben nen\u00ed na Damavand vhodn\u00e1 doba. Sn\u00edh je u\u017e od 3000 m a hlavn\u011b hory v tomto jarn\u00edm obdob\u00ed drz\u00ed mraky jako magnet. V ka\u017ed\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b jsme za t\u011bchto podm\u00ednek ud\u011blali asi to nejlep\u0161\u00ed, co jsme ud\u011blat mohli. Ztr\u00e1cet \u010das ve \u0161patn\u00e9m po\u010das\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch a p\u0159ij\u00edt tak o ir\u00e1nskou kulturu, by byla velk\u00e1 \u0161koda.<\/p>\n<p>D\u00e1v\u00e1m se do \u0159e\u010di s pan\u00ed, co mi tlumo\u010dila a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee n\u00e1s zve na n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu k sob\u011b dom\u016f do Babolsaru (kone\u010dn\u00e1 stanice na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Kaspick\u00e9ho mo\u0159e). Po chvilce u\u017e jedeme op\u011bt v n\u00ed\u017ein\u011b a po 4 hodin\u00e1ch j\u00edzdy jsme u Kaspiku. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva v letovisku Babolsar u pan\u00ed Jani je super. Jedn\u00e1 se o luxusn\u00ed rekrea\u010dn\u00ed \u010dtvrt p\u0159\u00edmo na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed vybudovanou za posledn\u00edho \u0161\u00e1ha Pahlav\u00edho v 70. letech minul\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed. S Jani d\u00e1v\u00e1m zaj\u00edmavou debatu na t\u00e9ma Khomeini versus Pahlavi. Po \u010daji n\u00e1m Jani ukazuje m\u011bste\u010dko a j\u00e1 zkou\u0161\u00edm teplotu Kaspick\u00e9ho mo\u0159e. Vodu tipuji na 19\u00b0C. Na ve\u010der se lou\u010d\u00edme a odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na druh\u00fd konec m\u011bsta koupit j\u00edzdenky na autobus na z\u00edtra do Mashhadu (140 000 Rials\/osobu). Nakonec sp\u00edme pod stanem kousek od mo\u0159e.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den dopoledne tr\u00e1v\u00edme u mo\u0159e, kde potk\u00e1vame m\u00edstn\u00edho Travoltu. Sice um\u00ed pouze Farsi (persky), ale i p\u0159es to jsem se s n\u00edm vydr\u017eel bavit p\u016fl hodiny, ani\u017e bychom si rozum\u011bli jedin\u00e9 slovo. Neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9\u2026a\u017e tady jsem zjistil prav\u00e9 kouzlo kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho \u010desk\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edslov\u00ed \u201djeden o koze, druh\u00fd o voze\u201d. Dal\u0161\u00ed borec zase pracoval v Berl\u00edn\u011b a minul\u00fd rok ly\u017eoval ve \u0160pindlerov\u011b Ml\u00fdn\u011b J No, je to tady legrace.<\/p>\n<p>V poledne se p\u0159esouv\u00e1me pobl\u00ed\u017e k autobusov\u00e9mu n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a ob\u011bd si d\u00e1v\u00e1me v m\u00edstn\u00edm fastfoodu, kter\u00fdch jsou v cel\u00e9m Ir\u00e1nu na ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu mraky. V 16:00 h kone\u010dn\u011b odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme sm\u011br Mashhad. Cesta trv\u00e1 dlouh\u00fdch 14 h a v 06:00 h r\u00e1no jsme kone\u010dn\u011b na m\u00edst\u011b.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>26-27\/4\/2012 Mashhad<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_513\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-513\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_3.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-513 \" alt=\"iran2012_3\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_3-224x300.jpg\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_3-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_3.jpg 599w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-513\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mashhad, Haram-e Razavi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se dle Lonely Planet v nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u00edstn\u00edm hostelu \u2013 Vali\u2019s non-smoking homestay (http:\/\/www.valishomestay.com). Asi to u\u017e nen\u00ed pravda, proto\u017ee cena je pom\u011brn\u011b vysok\u00e1 150 000 Rials\/osobu\/noc a je zde docela bordel. Je to byt asi 6+1 pln\u00fd koberc\u016f, na kter\u00fdch je mo\u017eno sp\u00e1t. Vede to mil\u00fd chl\u00e1pek jm\u00e9nem Vali a jeho rodina. Host\u016f je tu te\u010f mimo sezonu m\u00e1lo, s n\u00e1mi \u0161est. Prav\u011b odtud p\u00ed\u0161i tento p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek.<\/p>\n<p>Dopoledne jsme prospali, proto\u017ee jsme byli zml\u00e1cen\u00ed po dlouh\u00e9 cest\u011b autobusem. Hned po poledni jsme vyrazili na prohl\u00eddku m\u011bsta. Mashhad je druh\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 m\u011bsto (tak\u0159ka 3 mil. obyvatel) a nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto pro Ir\u00e1nce, proto\u017ee je tu hrobka 8. im\u00e1ma – Im\u00e1ma Rezy. Komplex t\u00e9to svatyn\u011b se naz\u00fdv\u00e1 Haram-e Razavi a jedna se de facto o m\u011bsto ve m\u011bst\u011b. Na plo\u0161e cca 700 x 700 m se nach\u00e1z\u00ed n\u011bkolik budov a minaret\u016f a obrovsk\u00fdch n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, slou\u017e\u00edc\u00edch k hromadn\u00fdm modlitb\u00e1m. Haram je od na\u0161eho hostelu asi 30 minut pe\u0161ky. Od prvn\u00edch chvil v Mashhadu je vid\u011bt, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o konzervativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto ne\u017e Tehran. \u017deny tu chod\u00ed v 90% komplet v \u010dern\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1dorech, ale i zde na n\u00e1s v\u0161e p\u016fsob\u00ed nen\u00e1siln\u011b a p\u0159irozen\u00e9, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 tlaky. Zde stejn\u011b jako v Tehranu jsou lid\u00e9 ohromn\u011b ochotn\u00ed cizinci s \u010d\u00edmkoliv pomoci a velmi \u010dasto n\u00e1s zastavuj\u00ed a d\u00e1vaj\u00ed se do \u0159e\u010di. V\u0161ichni se usm\u00edvaj\u00ed a je tu prost\u011b fajn. N\u011bkdy ta ir\u00e1nsk\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edv\u011btivost je a\u017e unavuj\u00edc\u00ed, proto\u017ee za\u010d\u00e1tek konverzace (\u201cWhere are you from?\u201d \u201cWe are from Czechoslovakia\u201d \u2013 proto\u017ee Czech republic zn\u00e1 jen m\u00e1lokdo \u2013 \u201cand we want to see bla bla bla\u201d) bych si mohl nahr\u00e1t a pou\u0161t\u011bt dokola.<\/p>\n<p>Dovnit\u0159 do Haramu je mo\u017en\u00fd vstup pouze bez fotoapar\u00e1tu a \u017eeny mus\u00ed b\u00fdt zahalen\u00e9 komplet v \u010d\u00e1doru. Tak\u017ee Zuzka fasuje \u010d\u00e1dor a pan\u00ed pr\u016fvodkyn\u011b n\u00e1m ukazuje m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 m\u016f\u017ee nav\u0161t\u00edvit i nemuslim. Opravdu to stoj\u00ed za to, jedn\u00e1 se o jeden z vrchol\u016f isl\u00e1msk\u00e9ho stavitelstv\u00ed. \u0160koda, \u017ee se ned\u00e1 uvnit\u0159 fotit. Pr\u016fvodkyn\u011b n\u00e1m doporu\u010dila, abychom p\u0159i\u0161li je\u0161t\u011b ve\u010der na hromadnou modlitbu.<\/p>\n<p>Mezi\u010das jsme si zkr\u00e1tili prohl\u00eddkou Reza Bazaru a kone\u010dn\u011b jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili opravdovou ir\u00e1nskou restauraci a skv\u011bl\u00fdm kebabem s dokonalou r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed. Takovou pochoutku jsem u\u017e dlouho nem\u011bl. Nave\u010der jsme se vr\u00e1tili do Haramu, Zuza op\u011bt nafasovala \u010d\u00e1dor a tentokr\u00e1t jsme se dostali s dal\u0161\u00ed pr\u016fvodkyn\u00ed do podzem\u00ed do obrovsk\u00e9ho zrcadlov\u00e9ho s\u00e1lu. Vrcholem ve\u010dera byla slibovan\u00e1 hromadn\u00e1 modlitba na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Razavi. Tipuji minim\u00e1ln\u011b 50 000 muslim\u016f pohromad\u011b na koberci. Do tlampa\u010d\u016f vyvolav\u00e1 duchovn\u00ed modlitbu a v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00ed se klan\u011bj\u00ed. Cel\u00e9 se to odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 ji\u017e ve\u010der, cel\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed osv\u011btlen\u00e9 lampami. My stoj\u00edme s na\u0161i pr\u016fvodkyn\u00ed opod\u00e1l a v\u0161e sledujeme. Velmi hluboky z\u00e1\u017eitek, tohle je opravdu energie.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den dopoledne hled\u00e1me \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a po obejit\u00ed cel\u00e9ho Haramu, jednoho bazaru, vypit\u00ed \u010dty\u0159 piv (aktu\u00e1ln\u011b u m\u011b v\u00edt\u011bz\u00ed ananasov\u00e9) kone\u010dn\u011b \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 nach\u00e1z\u00edme. Mil\u00e1 sle\u010dna na informac\u00edch se n\u00e1s uj\u00edm\u00e1 a po chv\u00edli n\u00e1m za\u0159izuje j\u00edzdenky na dne\u0161n\u00ed ve\u010der do Tabasu (40 000 Rials\/osobu), co\u017e je m\u011bsto uprost\u0159ed pou\u0161t\u011b Dast-e Kavir na polovi\u010dn\u00ed cest\u011b do Yazdu (asi 500 km od Mashhadu).<\/p>\n<p>Odpoledne re\u00e1l v parku Mellat pobl\u00ed\u017e Ferdosi University a omrknut\u00ed Kuhestan parku, co\u017e je na okraji m\u011bsta na kone\u010dn\u00e9 stanici metra a vypad\u00e1 to jako v Praze na \u010cernaku (tak\u017ee opravdu nestoji za \u0159e\u010d). Bal\u00edme se v hostelu, ve\u010der pr\u0161\u00ed a je cca +15\u00b0C, docela zima. Cestou na vlak se stavujeme je\u0161t\u011b v jednom z mnoha mashhadsk\u00fdch fastfood\u016f. Vlak n\u00e1m odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed v 22:15 h. Cena zde odpov\u00edd\u00e1 kvalit\u011b. Kdy\u017e stoj\u00ed j\u00edzdenka na vlak na trasu dlouhou 500 km 40 K\u010d, tak n\u011bco n\u011bn\u00ed dob\u0159e J<\/p>\n<p>Vagon je tot\u00e1ln\u011b narvan\u00fd, teplota p\u0159es +30\u00b0C a top\u00ed na plno!, na nohy d\u011bsn\u011b m\u00e1lo m\u00edsta, Ir\u00e1nci \u017eivv\u011b diskutuj\u00ed a n\u00e1s v tomhle \u010deka asi 7 hodinov\u00e1 cesta. Zasedl jsem m\u00edsto n\u011bjak\u00e9 bab\u011b, kter\u00e1 m\u011b vytrvale atakuje, ale s klidem Angli\u010dana ji ignoruji. Nakonec ji se\u0159ve jeden Ir\u00e1nec a je klid. Druhou polovinu cesty je pro zm\u011bnu docela zima, proto\u017ee p\u0159estali topit a zase se vydatn\u011b v\u011btr\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>V 5:00 h jsme kone\u010dn\u011b na m\u00edst\u011b \u2013 uprost\u0159ed pou\u0161t\u011b v o\u00e1ze Tabas. Na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed se ihned pt\u00e1m na mo\u017enost koup\u011b j\u00edzdenky na dne\u0161n\u00ed odpoledne do Yazdu. Koupit m\u016f\u017eeme po 7:00 h, tak\u017ee se jdeme dospat p\u0159\u00edmo do par\u010d\u00edku p\u0159ed n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edm. Po 7. h skute\u010dn\u011b \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b kupuji j\u00edzdenky na vlak, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m jede z\u00edtra v 4:55 h r\u00e1no. Cel\u00fd den tedy m\u00e1me na prohl\u00eddku Tabasu. U\u017e um\u00edm \u010d\u00edslovky v per\u0161tin\u011b, tak\u017ee lu\u0161t\u00edm, \u017ee m\u00e1me 1. t\u0159\u00eddu (i cena je n\u011bkde jinde 140 000 Rials\/osobu), tak\u017ee jsme zv\u011bdavi jak bude vypadat tato cesta.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>28\/4\/2012 Tabas<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_514\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-514\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_4.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-514\" alt=\"iran2012_4\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_4-300x165.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"165\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_4-300x165.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_4.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-514\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tabas, Bagh-e Golshan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Pou\u0161tn\u00ed o\u00e1za Tabas le\u017e\u00ed uprost\u0159ed pou\u0161t\u011b Dart-e Kavir, m\u00e1 kolem 35 000 obyvatel a v roce 1978 velkou \u010d\u00e1st m\u011bsta zlikvidovalo zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed. Hlavn\u00ed atrakc\u00ed je Bagh-e Golshan, co\u017e je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 \u010dtvercov\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed \/250 x 250 m\/, uprost\u0159ed je um\u00edst\u011bna velk\u00e1 me\u0161ita, v ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu vysok\u00fd minaret a uvnit\u0159 \u0159ada vodotrysk\u016f, ka\u0161en a zelen\u011b \/hlavn\u011b vzrostl\u00e9 palmy poskytuj\u00edc\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd st\u00edn p\u0159ed hork\u00fdm sluncem, teplota hodn\u011b p\u0159es +30\u00b0C.<\/p>\n<p>Vstup pro mu\u017ee bez omezen\u00ed, \u017eeny mus\u00ed m\u00edt \u010d\u00e1dor, tak\u017ee Zuzce m\u00edstn\u00ed person\u00e1l p\u016fj\u010duje slu\u0161iv\u00fd hadr. Po vy\u0159e\u0161eni nedorozum\u011bn\u00ed s \u00faschovou bag\u00e1\u017ee si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me zdej\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 klima. Neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9, ze jsme uprost\u0159ed such\u00e9 pou\u0161t\u011b. P\u0159\u00edmo naproti komplexu je uli\u010dka obchod\u016f a ob\u010derstven\u00ed, tak\u017ee o pivo nen\u00ed nouze. Odpoledne tr\u00e1v\u00edme v dal\u0161\u00edm p\u0159ilehl\u00e9m parku a na ve\u010der si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me chello kebab. V p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed posilovn\u011b, kter\u00fdch je po cel\u00e9m Ir\u00e1nu mraky, protahujeme sv\u00e9 t\u011bla a kolem 22 h us\u00edn\u00e1me pod \u0161ir\u00fdm nebem ve spac\u00e1ku p\u0159\u00edmo pod jedn\u00edm rohov\u00fdm minaretem.<\/p>\n<p>V noci je moc p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b, teplota kolem +23\u00b0C. \u0160koda, ze bud\u00edk n\u00e1s otravuje u\u017e v 3 h r\u00e1no. Bal\u00edme se a pochodujeme 2 km na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. Vlak m\u00e1 bohu\u017eel 1,5 h zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed, tak\u017ee odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme za v 6:30 h. Prvn\u00ed t\u0159ida je v\u0161ak za odm\u011bnu. Kup\u00e9 je pro \u010dty\u0159i lidi a je l\u016f\u017ekov\u00e9! Par\u00e1da a v\u011bt\u0161inu cesty sp\u00edme. Dost\u00e1v\u00e1me i ob\u010derstven\u00ed. Kdy\u017e zrovna nesp\u00edme, tak pozorujeme pou\u0161ti krajinu, kter\u00e1 dok\u00e1\u017ee b\u00fdt tak\u00e9 velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e1. V Yazdu jsme ve 13:40 h.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>29-30\/4\/2012 Yazd<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_515\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-515\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_5.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-515\" alt=\"iran2012_5\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_5-199x300.jpg\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_5-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_5.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-515\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pou\u0161tn\u00ed m\u011bsto Yazd.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Yazd je centrum zoroastrismu, co\u017e bylo z\u0159ejm\u011b prvn\u00edm n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00edm uzn\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00edm jednoho boha. Za sv\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy bylo roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159eno od St\u0159edozemn\u00edho mo\u0159e a\u017e po dne\u0161n\u00ed Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1n. Pot\u00e9 jej vytla\u010dilo k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed a pozd\u011bji v t\u00e9to oblasti v\u0161e p\u0159ev\u00e1lcoval isl\u00e1m. Dnes je stoupenc\u016f tohoto n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed asi 150 000 na cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b z toho na 30 000 v Yazdu.<\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1s tu v\u00edt\u00e1 velmi tepl\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed, teplota p\u0159es +30\u00b0C, polojasno. P\u0159eci jen jsme obklopeni pou\u0161t\u00ed. Tax\u00edka tentokr\u00e1t nebereme a pochodujeme pe\u0161ky. \u00dasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 nach\u00e1z\u00edme ulici Khomeiniho (ostatn\u011b v ka\u017ed\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b je jedna z hlavni t\u0159\u00edd a n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed zcela zaru\u010den\u00e9 pojmenovan\u00e1 po tomto zakladateli ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 revoluce). Od n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Behesti m\u00e1 b\u00fdt nalevo stejnojmenn\u00fd hotel. V\u0161ude jsou ale n\u00e1pisy pouze v per\u0161tin\u011b a to fakt moc ned\u00e1v\u00e1m. U jednoho vchodu kamsi se pt\u00e1m na hotel Behesti. T\u00fdpek neum\u00ed ani slovo anglicky, tak\u017ee domluva je legra\u010dn\u00ed, ale po chv\u00edli s radost\u00ed zji\u0161tuji, \u017ee jsem v hotel Behesti. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je zat\u00edm nejlep\u0161\u00ed (okna do klidn\u00e9 ulice, ledni\u010dka na pokoji!, \u010dist\u00fd z\u00e1chod na chodb\u011b a super cena 100 000 Rials\/osobu). Nav\u00edc je n\u00e1\u0161 hotel um\u00edst\u011bn na za\u010d\u00e1tku star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta, co\u017e je hlavn\u00ed turistick\u00e9 l\u00e1kadlo Yazdu. Z okna se kouk\u00e1me na \u010d\u00e1st star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta, kter\u00e9 je postaven\u00e9 komplet cel\u00e9 z hl\u00edny.<\/p>\n<p>Vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na prohl\u00eddku star\u00fdm m\u011bstem. Hlin\u011bn\u00e9 uli\u010dky jsou velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 a pro Evropana n\u011b\u010d\u00edm hodn\u011b netradi\u010dn\u00edm. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me vynikaj\u00edc\u00edm ban\u00e1nov\u00fdm koktejlem u me\u0161ity Amir Chakhmag, proch\u00e1z\u00edme kolem me\u0161ity Hazirech a po chv\u00edli jsme u jedn\u00e9 z nejatraktivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch zdej\u0161\u00edch staveb \u2013 u\u017easn\u00e9 Jameh Mosque (P\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed me\u0161ita). D\u00e1le Alexandrova v\u011bznice, hrobka 12 im\u00e1m\u016f\u2026 Hodn\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 jsou zdej\u0161\u00ed kr\u00e1my s persk\u00fdmi koberci. Mezi v\u0161emi pam\u011btihodnostmi proch\u00e1z\u00edme malebn\u00fdmi \u00fatuln\u00fdmi hlin\u011bn\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami n\u011bkdy u\u017e\u0161\u00edmi ne\u017e auto, proto tu v\u011bt\u0161ina m\u00edstn\u00edch jezd\u00ed na motorce. Star\u00e9 domy maj\u00ed pov\u011bstn\u00e9 v\u011btrn\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ee, kter\u00e9 chytaj\u00ed v\u00edtr a d\u016fmysln\u00fdm syst\u00e9mem jej rozv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed uvnit\u0159 domu. Jeden m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u00e1n n\u00e1s vede na st\u0159echu Hosseinova domu, odkud se nam nab\u00edz\u00ed fantastick\u00fd pohled na cel\u00fd star\u00fd Yazd. Velk\u00e1 bomba! Ve\u010der si d\u00e1v\u00e1me v\u00fdbornou ir\u00e1nskou pizzu, co\u017e je bl\u00ed\u017ee k bucht\u011b, proto\u017ee je cca 3 cm vysok\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den (30\/4) vstav\u00e1me po 8 h a prvn\u00ed na\u0161e kroky vedou k zoroastri\u00e1nsk\u00e9mu komplexu Ateschkadeh, kde ho\u0159\u00ed ohe\u0148 zap\u00e1len\u00fd roku 470 n. l. Pot\u00e9 jedeme tax\u00edkem na autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l (asi 5 km za m\u011bstem u leti\u0161te), kde kupujeme j\u00edzdenky na dne\u0161n\u00ed ve\u010der (9:00 h) do Shirazu. Odtud s taxik\u00e1\u0159em Alim fr\u010d\u00edme na Towers of Silence (Dakhmeh-ze Zartoshtiyun). Jedn\u00e1 se o dv\u011b v\u011b\u017ee um\u00edst\u011bn\u00e9 na dvou kopc\u00edch za m\u011bstem, kde Zoroastri\u00e1nci poh\u0159b\u00edvali \u010dleny sv\u00e9 v\u00edry. Jeliko\u017e up\u00e1len\u00edm by zne\u010distili ohe\u0148 i ovzdu\u0161\u00ed, nech\u00e1vali jejich t\u011bla zetl\u00edt a se\u017erat supy. Toto se zde \u00fadajn\u011b praktikovalo do roku 1950.<\/p>\n<p>Kolem 14. h se bal\u00edme v hotelu, ale bag\u00e1\u017e si tu je\u0161t\u011b nech\u00e1v\u00e1me. Odpoledne cour\u00e1me po star\u00e9m hlin\u011bn\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b, d\u00e1v\u00e1me v\u00fdborn\u00e9 koktejly a lou\u010d\u00edme se s Yazdem \u2013 zat\u00edm nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm ir\u00e1nsk\u00fdm m\u011bstem, kter\u00e9 jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili. Dnes jsme toho nachodili pom\u011brn\u011b dost. V 19:30 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme tax\u00edkem za m\u011bsto na autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l a v 21 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Shirazu, dal\u0161\u00ed na\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vky.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>1-3\/5\/2012 Shiraz, Persepolis<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_516\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-516\" style=\"width: 266px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_6.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-516\" alt=\"iran2012_6\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_6-266x300.jpg\" width=\"266\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_6-266x300.jpg 266w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_6.jpg 710w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 266px) 100vw, 266px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-516\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">B\u00e1jn\u00e1 Persepole.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Do Shirazu p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme autobusem v 3:30 h. Oproti Yazdu je tu docela zima, tipuji tak +15\u00b0C. Op\u011bt se na n\u00e1s vrhaj\u00ed taxik\u00e1\u0159i, kte\u0159\u00ed necht\u011bj\u00ed pochopit, ze jejich slu\u017eeb vyu\u017e\u00edt netou\u017e\u00edme. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9m zorientovan\u00ed se spr\u00e1vn\u011b identifikuji sm\u011br na Valiasr sq., za kter\u00fdm je kr\u00e1sny park \u2013 n\u00e1s prvn\u00ed shirazsk\u00fd c\u00edl. P\u0159\u00edmo v parku stav\u00edme stan a dosp\u00e1v\u00e1me. U\u017e po 7. h rann\u00ed n\u00e1s bud\u00ed ukl\u00edze\u010d parku, proto\u017ee chce pustit zavla\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed a nechce n\u00e1s pokropit. Bal\u00edme sv\u00fdch p\u00e1r \u0161vestek a jdeme hledat do centra m\u011bsta hotel.<\/p>\n<p>Po necel\u00e9 hodin\u011b nal\u00e9z\u00e1me kone\u010dn\u011b m\u00edsto, kde dle Lonely planet m\u00e1 byt nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed hotel. Bohu\u017eel informace z roku 2008 (vyd\u00e1n\u00ed LP) je star\u00e1, m\u00edsto hotelu je tu muzeum. V dal\u0161\u00edm nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edm hotelu cht\u011bj\u00ed za double room 40USD, co\u017e je nesmysl. Vs\u00e1z\u00edme na dal\u0161\u00ed tip Lonely Planet \u2013 hotel Saadi Hotel na Piruz Street. Velmi dobry tip \u2013 cena za double room 250 000 Rials\/noc a nav\u00edc je na pokoji sprcha a z\u00e1chod! Po hygien\u011b cel\u00e9ho t\u011bla jdeme za\u0159\u00eddit nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00ed \u00fakol \u2013 prodlou\u017eeni v\u00edz. Na\u0161e v\u00edza vydan\u00e1 na leti\u0161ti v Tehranu maj\u00ed platnost pouze do 5\/5 a na\u0161e letenka dom\u016f je na 10\/5.<\/p>\n<p>Kousek od hotelu je st\u00e1nek Tourist Information, bohu\u017eel nikdo v n\u011bm. Kousek d\u00e1l s\u00eddli Tourist Police. Zdej\u0161\u00ed policista je sice moc mil\u00fd a sympatick\u00fd, ale neum\u00ed ani slovo anglicky. Pomoc\u00ed jedn\u00e9 mlad\u00e9 \u00cdr\u00e1nky se dozv\u00edd\u00e1me nemilou v\u011bc \u2013 tady n\u00e1m v\u00edza rozhodn\u011b neprodlou\u017e\u00ed. Zkou\u0161\u00edme to tedy dle informaci z Lonely Planet na v\u00fdpadovce za Valiasr sq. sm\u011brem na leti\u0161t\u011b. Op\u011bt p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed pomoc od jednoho mlad\u00e9ho Ir\u00e1nce, kter\u00fd um\u00ed anglicky a ten n\u00e1m domlouv\u00e1 odvoz tax\u00edkem p\u0159\u00edmo na policejn\u00ed stanici (11:00 h). Tam n\u00e1m sd\u011bluj\u00ed, co v\u0161e je zapot\u0159eb\u00ed k prodlou\u017een\u00ed v\u00edz: slo\u017eit 300 000 Rials\/osobu v bance Melli Bank Iran a s potvrzen\u00edm se vr\u00e1tit na policejn\u00ed stanici, vyplnit \u017e\u00e1dost, p\u0159ilo\u017eit 2 ks fotek a \u010dekat.<\/p>\n<p>Fi\u010d\u00edme tedy do banky. Bohu\u017eel nem\u00e1me Rials, tak\u017ee pot\u0159ebujeme sm\u011bnit dolary. To v\u0161ak nen\u00ed v Ir\u00e1nu mo\u017en\u00e9 na kter\u00e9koliv bance, pouze ve vybran\u00fdch pobo\u010dk\u00e1ch. A zrovna v t\u00e9to ne. Tak\u017ee jdeme hledat Exchange. V jedn\u00e9 bance nab\u00edz\u00ed velmi spatn\u00fd kurz 1 USD=12 250 Rials. S\u00e1m pan bank\u00e9\u0159 n\u00e1m reka, a\u0165 jdeme jinam (b\u011b\u017en\u00fd kurz ve smen\u00e1rn\u00e1ch je nyn\u00ed zhruba 1 USD=17 000 Rials). Na druh\u00e9m konci m\u011bsta kone\u010dn\u011b sm\u011bnujeme dolary a posp\u00edch\u00e1me do banky Melli uhradit poplatek za prodlou\u017eeni v\u00edz a d\u00e1le na policejn\u00ed stanici. Zde n\u00e1s jedna pan\u00ed fot\u00ed. To je docela sranda hlavn\u011b v Zuz\u010din\u011b p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b, proto\u017ee pan\u00ed ji bal\u00ed komplet do \u010d\u00e1doru. Na fotce mus\u00ed b\u00fdt \u010dlov\u011bk v\u00e1\u017en\u00fd, co\u017e ale v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b jde jen st\u011b\u017e\u00ed, proto\u017ee Zuza vypad\u00e1 fakt divoce J Dal\u0161\u00ed sranda je u policist\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed maj\u00ed na starosti na\u0161e \u017e\u00e1dosti \u2013 oni se ohromn\u011b bav\u00ed nad Zuz\u010dinou fotkou bez \u010d\u00e1doru (tu kterou m\u00e1 v pase) a my zase nad tou v \u010d\u00e1doru. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b v p\u016fl druh\u00e9 dost\u00e1v\u00e1me prodlou\u017een\u00e1 v\u00edza a\u017e do 23\/5\/2012! Par\u00e1da! \u0160koda, \u017ee m\u00e1me letenky u\u017e na 10\/5 L Spadl n\u00e1m k\u00e1men ze srdce a m\u00e1me opravdu velkou radost.<\/p>\n<p>Te\u010f si kone\u010dn\u011b m\u016f\u017eeme u\u017e\u00edvat Shiraz, tak hur\u00e1 do toho! Dnes odpoledne jdeme p\u0159es star\u00fd kamenn\u00fd most Esfahan gate bridge na severn\u00ed b\u0159eh nyn\u00ed tak\u0159ka vyschl\u00e9 \u0159eky Khosk, kter\u00e1 rozd\u011bluje Shiraz na dv\u011b \u010d\u00e1sti. Kolem me\u0161ity Immamyadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me stoupat ke Quran gate – takov\u00fd v\u00edt\u011bzn\u00fd oblouk ve zmen\u0161en\u00e9m. Cestou se stavujeme v Melli parku. Nad Quran gate jsou kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 vodop\u00e1dy, asi 80 m vysok\u00e9, a hned naproti stoj\u00ed \u201dir\u00e1nsk\u00fd zlat\u00fd kope\u010dek\u201d (podobn\u00fd tomu v Mikulov\u011b), odkud je super v\u00fdhled na cel\u00e9 m\u011bsto. U\u017e jsme si zvykli, \u017ee n\u00e1s denn\u011b zastavuje na p\u00e1r v\u011bt velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed lid\u00ed, ale jeden t\u00fdpek zde v\u0161echny trumfnul: pozdravil n\u00e1s a okam\u017eit\u011b zadal telefonovat sv\u00e9mu kamar\u00e1dovi, kter\u00fd um\u011bl anglicky a p\u0159es tohoto p\u0159\u00edtele na telefonu jsme se spolu bavili \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Sb\u00edh\u00e1me zp\u011bt dol\u016f do m\u011bsta, d\u00e1v\u00e1me si pizzu a pokra\u010dujeme k H\u00e1f\u00e9zov\u011b hrobce. Jeliko\u017e je u\u017e tma, tak je cel\u00fd komplex hrobky s kolonadou u\u017easne nasv\u00edcen. Je tu pom\u011brn\u011b dost lidi (vstup 5 000 Rials\/osobu). Jeden star\u0161\u00ed p\u00e1n, kdy\u017e zjistil odkud jsme, ihned za\u010dal vyjmenov\u00e1vat \u010deskoslovensk\u00e9 prezidenty od Bene\u0161e za po Havla, znal Dub\u010deka a pra\u017esk\u00e9 jaro! Rozebrali jsme politickou situaci u n\u00e1s i v Ir\u00e1nu. Jako p\u0159ekladatel n\u00e1m poslou\u017eil mlad\u00fd Mohammed, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s na z\u00edtra pozval k sob\u011b dom\u016f. Dnes to byl kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00fd den.<\/p>\n<h3>Persepolis<\/h3>\n<p>Dnes m\u00e1me v pl\u00e1nu jeden ze zlat\u00fdch h\u0159ebu cel\u00e9ho na\u0161eho putovan\u00ed po Ir\u00e1nu \u2013 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu b\u00e1jn\u00e9 Persepole (50 km od Shirazu). R\u00e1no vst\u00e1v\u00e1me po 8 h a jdeme na Carandish bus terminal. Cestou p\u0159es m\u011bsto se nech\u00e1v\u00e1m oholit od zdej\u0161\u00edho mistra. V\u010dera jsme si zji\u0161\u0165ovali ceny za taxi Shiraz \u2013 Persepolis \u2013 Shiraz a vych\u00e1z\u00ed to na pom\u011brn\u011b dost \u2013 400 000 Rials. Proto vol\u00edme levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed variantu minibusem do m\u011bsta Marvdash (40 km) a odtud ji\u017e m\u00edstn\u00edm taxi (10 km, 50 000 Rials). Kousek p\u0159ed samotnou Persepol\u00ed se je\u0161t\u011b zastavujeme na prohl\u00eddku dvou pam\u00e1tek: Naqsh-e Rostam a Naqsh-e Rajab. V prvn\u00edm p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b se jedna se o hrobky persk\u00fdch kr\u00e1l\u016f (Artaxerxes I., Xerxes, Dareios I. Veliky a Dareios II.) vytesan\u00e9 do sk\u00e1ly. Pod samotn\u00fdmi hrobkami jsou vytesan\u00fd reli\u00e9fy zachycuj\u00edc\u00ed okam\u017eiky z persk\u00fdch d\u011bjin. Druh\u00e1 pam\u00e1tka vyobrazuje na reliefech vytesan\u00fdch do sk\u00e1ly persk\u00e9 kr\u00e1le.<\/p>\n<p>Samotn\u00e1 Persepole je \u00fa\u017easn\u00e1. Prohl\u00eddka n\u00e1m trvala asi 3 hodiny. Je vid\u011bt, \u017ee je to velk\u00fdm turistick\u00fdm magnetem jak pro samotn\u00e9 Ir\u00e1nce, tak samoz\u0159ejm\u011b pro cestovatele z cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. Ceny ob\u010derstveni jsou tu lehce nadsazen\u00e9, ale nic nehor\u00e1zn\u00e9ho (vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed asi o 30%), vstupn\u00e9 je sm\u011b\u0161n\u00fdch 5 000 Rials\/osobu.<\/p>\n<p>B\u00fdval\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto staropersk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e le\u017e\u00ed na velk\u00e9 plo\u0161in\u011b pod str\u00e1n\u00ed, co\u017e se hodilo p\u0159i obran\u00e9 m\u011bsta. Zalo\u017een\u00ed m\u011bsta je spojeno s prvn\u00edm persk\u00fdm kr\u00e1lem z Achamejovsk\u00e9 dynastie \u2013 Kyrem Velik\u00fdm (6. st. p\u0159. n. l.) a s podstatn\u00fdm roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00edm cel\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e. Za sv\u00e9ho zenitu byla Persepole vrcholem tehdej\u0161\u00ed architektury. Ve 30. letech 4. st. n. l. byla Persie dobita Alexandrem Velik\u00fdm a hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto zap\u00e1leno. V dal\u0161\u00edch stolet\u00edch lid\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edvali kameny z pal\u00e1c\u016f Persepole na stavbu sv\u00fdch dom\u016f a trosky pomalu ale jist\u011b rozeb\u00edrali. Do toho se p\u0159idalo n\u011bkolik zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed, ale komplex p\u0159es to v\u0161echno nebyl zlikvidov\u00e1n zcela. Archeologick\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce byly zah\u00e1jeny v 18. st. Dodnes se zachovaly podstatn\u00e9 stavebn\u00ed prvky (br\u00e1ny, schodi\u0161t\u011b, sloupy, reli\u00e9fy).<\/p>\n<p>Po prohl\u00eddce ihned domlouv\u00e1me taxi zp\u00e1tky do Marvdashe. Jede s n\u00e1mi jeden s\u00f3lista z Thajska, my plat\u00edme za n\u00e1s dva 30 000 Rials, on 20 000 Rials. V Marvdashi p\u0159esed\u00e1me na minibus do Shirazu (15 000 Rials za oba) a jdeme se naj\u00edst. V 18 h m\u00e1me domluvenou sch\u016fzku s Mohammedem, kter\u00e9ho jsme potkali v\u010dera ve\u010der u Haf\u00e9zovi hrobky. A skute\u010dn\u011b se setk\u00e1v\u00e1me. Ves plat\u00ed a jedeme tax\u00edkem k n\u011bmu dom\u016f. Je s n\u00e1mi je\u0161t\u011b jeho bratranec Amir, kter\u00fd um\u00ed dob\u0159\u00e9 anglicky. Zjevn\u011b se jedn\u00e1 o bohat\u0161\u00ed rodinu, proto\u017ee d\u016fm, ve kter\u00e9m bydl\u00ed se sp\u00ed\u0161e podob\u00e1 mal\u00e9mu pal\u00e1ci. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva je moc fajn a se Zuzkou si p\u0159ipad\u00e1me sp\u00ed\u0161e jako na st\u00e1tn\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b hlav obou st\u00e1t\u016f. Jsme posazeni na kr\u00e1snou pohovku zdobenou persk\u00fdmi motivy, p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed tr\u016fn. Kolem n\u00e1s si pomalu sedaj\u00ed v\u0161ichni \u010dlenov\u00e9 cel\u00e9 velk\u00e9 rodiny (maminka, t\u0159i br\u00e1chov\u00e9, bratranec a dv\u011b sestry, tat\u00ednek p\u0159ichaz\u00ed pozd\u011bji z pr\u00e1ce). Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 je, \u017ee my sed\u00edme celou dobu na stejn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b, ale na\u0161i ir\u00e1n\u0161t\u00ed hostitel\u00e9 si b\u011bhem ve\u010dera p\u0159esedaj\u00ed a m\u011bn\u00ed navz\u00e1jem sv\u00e1 m\u00edsta dle syst\u00e9mu, kter\u00e9mu jsem nep\u0159isel na kloub. Probrali jsme politiku, oby\u010dejn\u00fd \u017eivot, vzd\u011bl\u00e1vac\u00ed syst\u00e9m v obou zem\u00edch a rozd\u00edly mezi nimi atd. Moc p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1m dala mo\u017enost nahl\u00e9dnout do \u017eivota Shirazanu. Kolem 21. hodiny n\u00e1s odv\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed k na\u0161emu hotelu a my si jdeme je\u0161t\u011b courat chv\u00edli po m\u011bst\u011b.<\/p>\n<h3>Shiraz<\/h3>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den r\u00e1no jedeme na autobusov\u00fd terminal Amir Kabir koupit l\u00edstky na dne\u0161n\u00ed ve\u010der do Busheru (110 000 Rials pro oba) a pak se v\u011bnujeme dal\u0161\u00edmu pr\u016fzkumu m\u011bsta. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me pevnost\u00ed Arg-e Karim Khan (Citadela) p\u0159\u00edmo v centru m\u011bsta, co\u017e bylo s\u00eddlo dynastie Zand, kter\u00e1 u\u010dinila Shiraz na chv\u00edli hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem Persie. Z ven\u010d\u00ed vypad\u00e1 jako \u010dtvercov\u00fd hrad zhruba 200 x 200 m, v ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu \u0161irok\u00e1 kulat\u00e1 v\u011b\u017e, mezi v\u011b\u017eemi hradby 14 m vysok\u00e9. Vstup je 5 000 Rials\/osobu. Uvnit\u0159 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed kr\u00e1sna zahrada s citrusovn\u00edky a baz\u00e9nem, uvnit\u0159 hradeb jsou pak k vid\u011bni nap\u0159\u00edklad star\u00e9 l\u00e1zn\u011b. D\u00e1le si proch\u00e1z\u00edme Bazaar-e Vakil (Shirazsk\u00e9 bazary jsou pov\u011bstn\u00e9) a Vakil mosque (velk\u00e1 me\u0161ita). Pot\u00e9 si d\u00e1v\u00e1me v Gavana Restaurant ob\u011bd \u2013 ir\u00e1nsk\u00fd khoresht, co\u017e je takov\u00e1 sl\u00fdchat z bylinek a zeleniny, v tom kus masa a k tomu r\u00fd\u017ee (asi to m\u00e1 nejbl\u00ed\u017ee k na\u0161emu gul\u00e1\u0161i, ale moc dobr\u00e9 to nebylo, skoro bez chuti, n\u011bjak\u00e1 hmota s uho). Odpoledne m\u00e1me na programu jeden z hlavnich magnet\u016f Shirazu \u2013 Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh, co\u017e je mausoleum Sayyeda Mir Ahmada (jeden z bratr\u016f Imama Rezy pochovan\u00e9ho v Mashhadu), kter\u00fd zem\u0159el roku 835. Tato stavba poch\u00e1z\u00ed z 12 st. n. l. a pat\u0159\u00ed k nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm svatyn\u00edm v Ir\u00e1nu. Zuzce hned u vstupu p\u016fj\u010duj\u00ed \u010d\u00e1dor, j\u00e1 mus\u00edm nechat batoh s fo\u0165\u00e1kem a kamerou v \u00faschovn\u011b. Komplex tvo\u0159\u00ed obrovsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed v jeho\u017e \u010dele stoj\u00ed samotn\u00e9 mausoleum uvnit\u0159 zdoben\u00e9 miliony mal\u00fdch zrcadel, kter\u00e9 tvo\u0159\u00ed u\u017easn\u00fd interi\u00e9r. Opravdu par\u00e1da. D\u00e1le nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme Bach-e Nazar a Pars muzeum, kde jsou pam\u00e1tky hlavn\u011b po \u00e9\u0159e dynastie Zand, ale i dal\u0161\u00edch. Kolem je p\u011bkn\u00e1 zahrada. Odtud jdeme na kebab a je\u0161t\u011b jeden bazaar. Po 18 h se p\u0159esouv\u00e1me na autobusov\u00fd terminal Amir Kabir a v 19:20 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Busheru.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>4-5\/5\/2012 Busher, Persk\u00fd z\u00e1liv<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_517\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-517\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_7.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-517\" alt=\"iran2012_7\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_7-300x115.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"115\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_7-300x115.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_7.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-517\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Persk\u00fd z\u00e1liv v Busheru.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Cesta busem z Shirazu do Busheru trv\u00e1 6 hodin a \u0159idi\u010d op\u011bt dokazuje (stejn\u011b jako p\u0159i j\u00edzd\u011b z Babolsaru do Mashhadu), \u017ee s klimatizac\u00ed nen\u00ed kamar\u00e1d. Prvn\u00ed p\u016flku cesty je vedro a druhou pro zm\u011bnu kosa jako bl\u00e1zen. Kdy\u017e v 1:30 h r\u00e1no vystupujeme v Busheru na nov\u00e9m termin\u00e1lu, tak n\u00e1s \u0161lehne p\u0159es ksicht +35\u00b0C! Termin\u00e1l je 6 km od m\u011bsta, tak\u017ee vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me taxi a jedeme za 40 000 Rials do centra.<\/p>\n<p>Taxik\u00e1\u0159 je druh\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk v \u00cdr\u00e1nu, co zn\u00e1 V\u00e1clava Havla. Doporu\u010duje n\u00e1m (stejn\u011b jako Lonely planet) hotel Mosaferkhaneh-ze Pars p\u0159\u00edmo v centru star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta. Na zvonek nikdo nereaguje, tak n\u00e1m pom\u00e1h\u00e1 jeden m\u00edstn\u00ed t\u00fdpek a haz\u00ed kam\u00ednek do okna. Po chv\u00edli vychaz\u00ed star\u00fd d\u011bda \u2013 majitel hotelu a domlouv\u00e1me se na ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed (250 000 Rials\/noc\/double room). Na pokoji je i klimatizace, co\u017e ve zdej\u0161\u00edm vedru je v\u00fdborn\u00e1 zpr\u00e1va.<\/p>\n<p>D\u011bda-hotelier je zjevn\u011b velk\u00fd skrbl\u00edk, skoro je\u0161t\u011b na ulici chce prachy. Pozd\u011bji, kdy\u017e plat\u00edme druhou noc zase asi 5 minut zkoum\u00e1 jestli bankovka 500 000 Rials je prav\u00e1. Ale nakonec je docela fajn. Sb\u00edr\u00e1 v\u011bci od turistu ze v\u0161ech koutu sv\u011bta. Ukazuje n\u00e1m pohled Prahy, tak mu d\u00e1v\u00e1m pohled moji Huti a kupuje si ode mne dv\u011b \u010desk\u00e9 p\u011btikoruny.<\/p>\n<p>Druh\u00fd den vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme objevovat toto p\u0159\u00edstavn\u00ed m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 m\u00e1 cca 170 000 obyvatel. Je p\u00e1tek, co\u017e je jako u n\u00e1s ned\u011ble, tak\u017ee je tak\u0159ka v\u0161ude zav\u0159eno a v ulic\u00edch mrtvo. Vedro neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9, minim\u00e1ln\u011b +45\u00b0C. Asi 300 m od hotelu n\u00e1s zastavuje policista na motorce, kter\u00e9mu se nelib\u00ed Zuz\u010dina sukn\u011b (sah\u00e1 nad kotn\u00edky). Je\u0161t\u011b\u017ee m\u00e1 Zuzka v batohu kalhoty. Tento nedostatek je tedy vy\u0159e\u0161en p\u0159\u00edmo na m\u00edst\u011b a pokra\u010dujeme po hlavn\u00ed t\u0159id\u011b Engalab k mo\u0159i. Za chv\u00edli se n\u00e1m otev\u00edr\u00e1 super v\u00fdhled na Persky zaliv, na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed palmov\u00e1 alej a star\u00e9 ch\u00e1traj\u00edc\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstavn\u00ed budovy. Trochu nepochopiteln\u00e9 se tu nikdo nekoupe. D\u00e1le nal\u00e9z\u00e1me men\u0161\u00ed pla\u017e, kde je zhruba 50 lid\u00ed ve vod\u011b. Chlapy v pohod\u011b v plavk\u00e1ch, \u017eeny samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v \u010d\u00e1dorech nebo normaln\u011b v d\u017e\u00edn\u00e1ch. Neprodlu\u017eujeme to a t\u00e9\u017e se jdeme koupat! Zuzka komplet oble\u010den\u00e1, pro m\u011b dost sranda, ona to vidi jinak J Teplota vody je minim\u00e1ln\u011b +26\u00b0C a voda je kr\u00e1sn\u011b pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>Kousek d\u00e1le na jih po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je asi jedin\u00e1 zajimav\u00e1 stavba Busheru \u2013 b\u00fdval\u00fd britsk\u00fd konzul\u00e1t, kter\u00fd je opu\u0161t\u011bny od roku 1951, kdy premi\u00e9r Mohammad Mossadeq zn\u00e1rodnil Anglo-\u00edr\u00e1nskou ropnou spole\u010dnost (pozd\u011bji po operaci CIA Ajax a odstran\u011bni Mossadeqa a n\u00e1vratu \u0161\u00e1ha v roce 1953 byla tato spole\u010dnost \u2013 dnes zn\u00e1m\u00e1 pod jm\u00e9nem BP \u2013 op\u011bt p\u0159edan\u00e1 z \u010d\u00e1sti do britsk\u00e9ho vlastnictv\u00ed, ale konzul\u00e1t v Busheru se ji\u017e neobnovil).<\/p>\n<p>Sm\u011bn\u00e1rny jsou zav\u0159en\u00e9 a my m\u00e1me v kapse posledn\u00edch 250 000 Rials. Do cesty se n\u00e1m p\u0159ipletla Ghavan Restaurace, kter\u00e1 je v pr\u016fvod\u010d\u00edkovi vychvalovan\u00e1, jako nejlep\u0161\u00ed restaurace na cel\u00e9m ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9m pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Persk\u00e9ho z\u00e1livu. Inu, jdeme na v\u011bc. Uvnit\u0159 je \u00fapln\u011b jiny sv\u011bt \u2013 \u017eije to tam, je tu spousta lidi a ohromn\u011b p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 klima, narod\u00edl od situace venku. Vzhledem k na\u0161\u00ed finan\u010dn\u00ed situaci (dolary ani eura neberou a kartou VISA se v Ir\u00e1nu ned\u00e1 platit) se opova\u017eujeme j\u00edt pouze do dvou sal\u00e1tu a pit\u00ed. Sal\u00e1ty jsou v\u00fdborn\u00e9, ale n\u011bjak si to ani nedok\u00e1\u017eeme vychutnat, proto\u017ee se d\u011bs\u00edme okam\u017eiku placen\u00ed J P\u0159i placen\u00ed n\u00e1m pad\u00e1 k\u00e1men ze srdce a Ghavan restaurant n\u00e1s mile p\u0159ekvapuje \u2013 na\u0161e \u00fatrata je 103 000 Rials (co\u017e je na Ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 pom\u011bry kotel, ale vzhledem k p\u0159edveden\u00e9mu OK, p\u0159eci jen je to restaurace pro m\u00edstn\u00ed snoby).<\/p>\n<p>Cestou na hotel n\u00e1s op\u011bt zastavuje policajt na motorce. Mo\u017en\u00e1 na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed neum\u00ed ani slovo anglicky. Ale jeho gestikulace a v\u00fdraz rozhodn\u011b nen\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1. V\u016fbec netu\u0161\u00edm, co n\u00e1m chce. Ukazuji mu sv\u016fj pas, ale na v\u00edza ani nenalistuje. Zjevn\u011b chce n\u011bkoho buzerovat a my jsme zrovna na r\u00e1n\u011b. Hraju proto svoji obl\u00edbenou hru v podobn\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edpadech \u2013 to jest hra na hodn\u00e9ho debila. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed moje hra vych\u00e1z\u00ed a stejn\u011b rychle jako se policajt zjevil, tak rychle i miz\u00ed. P\u0159esto se tu v Busheru za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me c\u00edtit trochu divn\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>V\u0161echna ir\u00e1nsk\u00e1 m\u011bsta, kter\u00e1 jsme do te\u010f nav\u0161t\u00edvili byla \u00fa\u017easn\u00e1 a hlavn\u011b na\u0161e dosavadn\u00ed zku\u0161enosti s Ir\u00e1nci jsou jen a jen pozitivn\u00ed. Po\u0159\u00e1d se s n\u00e1mi chce n\u011bkdo d\u00e1t do \u0159e\u010di (i kdy\u017e my neum\u00edme Farsi a oni t\u0159eba neum\u00ed anglicky), nab\u00edz\u00ed n\u00e1m pomoc s \u010d\u00edmkoliv, vym\u011b\u0148ujeme si navz\u00e1jem kontakty (u\u017e jsem rozdal asi 50 pohled\u016f sv\u00e9 rodn\u00e9 vesnice)\u2026 v\u0161e super. Nikoliv v\u0161ak v Busheru. Zde jako bychom ani nebyli v Ir\u00e1nu. Zat\u00edm se k n\u00e1m nikdo nehl\u00e1s\u00ed, koukaj\u00ed na n\u00e1s jak na vet\u0159elce, dvakr\u00e1t n\u00e1s buzeruje policajt (podruh\u00e9 v\u016fbec nev\u00edm za co). Jedin\u00e9, co stoji v Busheru za to je skv\u011bl\u00e9 mo\u0159e, skv\u011bl\u00e1 restaurace Ghavan a ruiny britsk\u00e9ho konzul\u00e1tu. Nakonec i d\u011bda skrbl\u00edk z hotelu je fajn a pokec s nim je dobr\u00fd (um\u00ed anglicky). To je v\u0161e. Lidi a zbytek m\u011bsta nedoporu\u010dujeme. Busher u\u017e nikdy v\u00edce.<\/p>\n<p>Ve\u010der tr\u00e1v\u00edme na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, kde se shlukuj\u00ed lid\u00e9, jak kdyby vylezli z nor. Sed\u00edme tu na tr\u00e1vn\u00edku a b\u011bhem dvou hodin s n\u00e1mi nikdo neza\u010dal hovo\u0159it. Tohle by se n\u00e1m nikde jinde v Ir\u00e1nu nestalo. Ne, \u017ee by n\u00e1m to vadilo, docela r\u00e1di si odpo\u010dineme a vychutnav\u00e1me si ve\u010dern\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e9 klima (po\u0159\u00e1d je +35\u00b0C), ale na Ir\u00e1n je to prost\u011b divn\u00e9 m\u011bsto.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den u\u017e je sobota, tak\u017ee v ulic\u00edch je ru\u0161no. Vym\u011b\u0148ujeme dal\u0161\u00edch 100 USD a jsme op\u011bt v bal\u00edku. Koupeme se v mo\u0159i a jdeme na ob\u011bd do Ghavan restaurant. Nyni si to jdeme u\u017e \u0159\u00e1dn\u011b vychutnat. Zuza jede ve v\u00fdborn\u00fdch sal\u00e1tech, j\u00e1 zkou\u0161\u00edm Excellent Busher Kabab a je skute\u010dn\u011b excelentn\u00ed! Mus\u00edm \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee zat\u00edm nejluxusn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kabab, jak\u00fd jsem kdy m\u011bl. V\u0161ak je to zn\u00e1t na \u00fa\u010dtu \u2013 304 000 Rials je kosmick\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1stka, ale n\u00e1m vr\u00e1sky na \u010dele ned\u011bl\u00e1. Dote\u010f jsme jedli s rozpo\u010dtem 25 000 \u2013 70 000 Rials\/j\u00eddlo pro dva, tak jsme si te\u010f vytrhli z kop\u00fdtka.<\/p>\n<p>Lou\u010d\u00edme se s Busherem, bereme taxi a p\u0159ed 16. hodinou odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme busem do Shirazu. Cesta je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 a jeliko\u017e velkou \u010d\u00e1st jedeme za denn\u00edho sv\u011btla, tak obdivujeme hory a sk\u00e1ly pod\u00e9l cesty. V Shirazu jsme lehce 21. hodin\u011b.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>6\/5\/2012 Shiraz<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_518\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-518\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_8.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-518\" alt=\"iran2012_8\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_8-300x196.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"196\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_8-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_8.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-518\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shiraz.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Hned po p\u0159\u00edjezdu z Busheru jedeme docela divok\u00fdm tax\u00edkem, kter\u00fd jede jako kret\u00e9n i na m\u00edstn\u00ed pom\u011bry, do na\u0161eho zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho hotelu Saadi na Piruz street. \u0160koda, dost\u00e1v\u00e1me pokoj bez z\u00e1chodu a sprchy a ke v\u0161emu nav\u00edc okna do ulice \ud83d\ude41<\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no jdeme na autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l Carandish koupit l\u00edstky na dne\u0161n\u00ed ve\u010der do Esfahanu. Cena je vysok\u00e1 (250 000 Rials pro oba), \u010dekal jsem p\u016flku. Pan\u00ed \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee je to VIP, tak jsem zv\u011bdav, asi bude na palub\u011b busu baz\u00e9n\u2026uvid\u00edme. Odjezd je dnes ve 23:45 hodin, \u010dek\u00e1 n\u00e1s p\u0159es 600 km.<\/p>\n<p>Z autobus\u00e1ku jdeme do Bagh-e Naranjastan (Orange garden) \u2013 jedna z nejhez\u010d\u00edch shir\u00e1zsk\u00fdch zahrad. A opravdu, stoji to za to. Na zdech obr\u00e1zky na keramick\u00fdch kachli\u010dk\u00e1ch a zrcadlov\u00e1 s\u00ed\u0148. D\u00e1v\u00e1m se do \u0159eci se studenty zdej\u0161\u00ed univerzity. Pr\u00fd mi moc slu\u0161\u00ed moje b\u00edl\u00e9 vlasy, to m\u00e9 rozesmalo J Hned vedle Orange garden je je\u0161t\u011b jedna p\u011bkn\u00e1 zahrada s muzeem, kde jsou voskov\u00e9 figur\u00edny v\u0161ech podstatn\u00fdch osobnosti persk\u00fdch d\u011bjin.<\/p>\n<p>Odpoledne jsme znaveni a d\u00e1v\u00e1me krat\u0161\u00ed siestu na hotelu. Bal\u00edme se a odhla\u0161ujeme se z pokoje. Bag\u00e1\u017e nech\u00e1v\u00e1me na recepci a jdeme nas\u00e1vat posledn\u00ed chvilky shir\u00e1zsk\u00e9ho \u017eivota.<\/p>\n<p>Vedu dal\u0161\u00ed z dlouh\u00e9 \u0159ady rozhovor\u016f s domorodci, te\u010f pr\u00e1v\u011b s mlad\u00fdm Ir\u00e1ncem, kter\u00fd um\u00ed anglicky. U\u017e m\u00e1m tolik kontakt\u016f na m\u00edst\u0148\u00e1ky, \u017ee v tom m\u00e1m slu\u0161n\u00fd gul\u00e1\u0161, kter\u00e1 adresa pat\u0159\u00ed jak\u00e9 tv\u00e1\u0159i. Ve\u010der se u\u017e s bag\u00e1\u017ei p\u0159emis\u0165ujeme do parku Valiasr. Ir\u00e1nci tu u\u017e piknikuji a my se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1me. Od jedn\u00e9 rodinky dost\u00e1v\u00e1me \u010daj a meloun, my nab\u00edz\u00edme na\u0161e posledn\u00ed bonbony. Po 22:30 h se p\u0159esunujeme na autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Carandish a v 23:45 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme VIP busem do Esfahanu. Bus je opravdu luxusn\u00ed, v rady jsou jen 3 k\u0159esla \/2x vpravo, 1x vlevo\/, m\u00edsta na nohy hodn\u011b a d\u00e1 se ud\u011blat slu\u0161n\u00e1 l\u016f\u017ekov\u00e1 \u00faprava. Jen ta klimatizace\u2026op\u011bt kosa jako bl\u00e1zen.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>7-8\/5\/2012 Esfahan<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><strong><em>Esfahan nesf-e jahan \/ Esfahan je polovina sv\u011bta<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_519\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-519\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_9.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-519\" alt=\"iran2012_9\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_9-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_9-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_9.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-519\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Esfahan – druh\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Do Esfahanu p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme po 6. hodin\u011b rann\u00ed na autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l Kavah na severu m\u011bsta. Tax\u00edkem se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do 6 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho d\u0159\u00edve vytipovan\u00e9ho hostelu Amir Kabir. Trochu n\u00e1s p\u0159ekvapuje vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed cena \u2013 350 000 Rials\/double room, ale co se da d\u011blat. M\u011bla by to b\u00fdt jedna z nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch ubytoven ve m\u011bst\u011b. Holt Esfahan je velk\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 centrum a l\u00e1kadlo. Do 10 h dosp\u00e1v\u00e1me deficit a pot\u00e9 vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme objevovat \u201dpolovinu sv\u011bta\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Z hlavn\u00ed ulice Chahar Bang Abbas, na kter\u00e9 stoj\u00ed n\u00e1\u0161 hotel se mal\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami propl\u00e9t\u00e1me jihov\u00fdchodn\u00edm sm\u011brem k nejstar\u0161\u00ed Esfahansk\u00e9 me\u0161it\u011b Hakim mosque. Prav\u00e9 zde prob\u00edh\u00e1 tryzna za zem\u0159el\u00e9ho mlad\u00e9ho voj\u00e1ka. Kousek od me\u0161ity vch\u00e1z\u00edme do bludi\u0161t\u011b Bazar-e Bozorg (Velky bazar). P\u0159ijde mi snad nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed, jak\u00fd jsme tu v Ir\u00e1nu dosud vid\u011bli. Do \u0159e\u010di se s n\u00e1mi d\u00e1v\u00e1 m\u00edstn\u00ed star\u0161\u00ed chlap\u00edk jm\u00e9nem Mahmood. Ten n\u00e1m d\u011bla skv\u011bl\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce po dal\u0161\u00ed dv\u011b hodiny (\u0161el s n\u00e1kupem z bazaru dom\u016f, asi z n\u011bj m\u011bla man\u017eelka radost, kdy\u017e se vr\u00e1til po dvou hodin\u00e1ch). Kdy\u017e se dozv\u00edd\u00e1, ze jsme z \u010cR, tak na n\u00e1s vybaluje s kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edzvukem \u201dAhoj, jak se ma\u0161\u201d \ud83d\ude42 Ostatn\u011b tuto v\u011btu jsme tu pozd\u011bji v Esfahanu sly\u0161eli n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t (hlavn\u011b od prodejc\u016f koberc\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1s l\u00e1kali do sv\u00e9ho obchodu na \u010daj). Mahmood n\u00e1s vysvobozuje ze zm\u011bti uli\u010dek bazaru a vede n\u00e1s p\u0159\u00edmo k mauzoleu Harum Vilazet, kter\u00e9 je z ven\u010d\u00ed zdobeno velk\u00fdmi mozaikami v\u016fdce revoluce Khomeiniho i jeho pokra\u010dovatele Khameneiho.<\/p>\n<p>Hned vedle mauzolea je 48 m vysok\u00fd minaret of the Mosque of Ali. Pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l k nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 me\u0161it\u011b \u2013 Jameh mosque (rozloha 20 000 m2, vstup 5 000 Rials\/osobu). Mahmood n\u00e1m ukazuje v\u011bt\u0161inu zvl\u00e1\u0161tnosti a pozoruhodnost\u00ed \u2013 kaligramy na zdech, citace z kor\u00e1nu vyryt\u00e9 do kamenn\u00fdch desek, stropy stav\u011bn\u00e9 r\u016fzn\u00fdmi technikami, \u010d\u00e1st me\u0161ity kter\u00e1 byla za ir\u00e1cko-ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 v\u00e1lky zni\u010dena atd. M\u011bli jsme kliku, proto\u017ee po na\u0161em odchodu po 12:00 h, se me\u0161ita zav\u00edr\u00e1 na odpoledn\u00ed siestu.<\/p>\n<p>Vrac\u00edme se zp\u00e1tky p\u0159es bazar. Mahmood mi ukazuje n\u00e1bo\u017eenskou \u0161kolu, kde chlap\u00edci rozeb\u00edraj\u00ed kor\u00e1n a zam\u00fd\u0161lej\u00ed se nad t\u00edm, jako to vlastn\u011b ten Mohammed myslel (Zuzka \u010dek\u00e1 p\u0159ed vchodem, \u017eeny sem nesm\u00ed). Sm\u011brujeme k nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu l\u00e1kadlu cel\u00e9ho Esfahanu \u2013 k druh\u00e9mu nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b \u2013 Imam square. U\u017e ho pomali\u010dku ale jist\u00e9 za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me vid\u011bt z \u00fazk\u00e9 uli\u010dky bazaru, ale je\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1s Mahmood l\u00e1ka na uk\u00e1zku tradi\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdroby ti\u0161ten\u00fdch koberc\u016f\/ubrus\u016f. Pot\u00e9 ji\u017e nic nebr\u00e1ni, abychom spat\u0159ili kr\u00e1su Imam sq. A je to fakt bomba! Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, kter\u00e9 je 160 m \u0161irok\u00e9 a p\u0159es 0,5 km dlouh\u00e9, vch\u00e1z\u00edme branou Quesarieh. Uprost\u0159ed je park s baz\u00e9nem a vodotrysky, nalevo Ali Sapu palace, vpravo Sheik Lotfollah mosque a v\u0161emu v\u00e9vod\u00ed naproti n\u00e1m p\u0159es celou d\u00e9lku n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed me\u0161ita Imam mosque. Jeliko\u017e je po poledni, tak jsou tyto pam\u011btihodnosti zav\u0159en\u00e9. Nevad\u00ed, proto\u017ee my toho m\u00e1me docela dost a jdeme se naj\u00edst.<\/p>\n<p>Program na odpoledne jsme zvolili na jihu m\u011bsta, kde n\u00e1s cekaj\u00ed Esfahansk\u00e9 mosty p\u0159es \u0159eku Zayandeh a arm\u00e9nsk\u00e1 \u010dtvrt Jolfa. Od Ferdous\u00edho mostu, kter\u00fd slou\u017e\u00ed m\u011bstsk\u00e9 doprav\u011b jdeme po proudu \u0159eky k mostu Chubi z roku 1665 (150 m dlouh\u00fd, 21 oblouku). Pod\u00e9l obou b\u0159eh\u016f \u0159eky je rozlehl\u00fd park, kter\u00fd \u010din\u00ed na\u0161i proch\u00e1zku p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Dal\u0161\u00ed most se jm\u00e9n\u011b Khaju a je z roku 1650. Je dvoupatrov\u00fd a dle po\u010dtu lid\u00ed je vyhled\u00e1vanou atrakc\u00ed pro turisty i p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm m\u00edstem k tr\u00e1veni voln\u00e9ho \u010dasu pro domorodce. P\u0159es n\u011bj se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na prav\u00fd b\u0159eh a po n\u011bm se vrac\u00edme na z\u00e1pad. Tam n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 kr\u00e1sny Si-o seh bridge (298 m dlouh\u00fd, 33 oblouku), postaveny v letech 1599-1602.<\/p>\n<p>Pokra\u010dujeme do \u010dtvrti Jolfa, kterou zalo\u017eil kr\u00e1l Abbas t\u00edm, \u017ee sem p\u0159es\u00eddlil arm\u00e9nskou komunitu ze stejnojmenn\u00e9ho m\u011bsta na severu Ir\u00e1nu. M\u00edsto je zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 t\u00edm, \u017ee tu dodnes \u017eij\u00ed arm\u00e9n\u0161t\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165ane a stoj\u00ed tu t\u0159i kostely (persky \u201ckelisa\u201d). Hodinu hled\u00e1me nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed z nich \u2013 Kelisa-ze Vank. P\u0159ed 18. hodinou se n\u00e1m to kone\u010dn\u011b da\u0159\u00ed. Z ven\u010d\u00ed vypad\u00e1 jako me\u0161ita a k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 jen k\u0159\u00ed\u017e na kopuli. Uvnit\u0159 je bohat\u00e1 obrazov\u00e1 v\u00fdzdoba. Velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 uprost\u0159ed isl\u00e1msk\u00e9ho sv\u011bta nav\u0161t\u00edvit k\u0159es\u0165ansky svatost\u00e1nek. Vstupn\u00e9 je 30 000 Rials\/osobu. Celkov\u00e9 mus\u00edm \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee jsem nabyl dojmu, \u017ee muslimov\u00e9 k\u0159es\u0165any hodn\u011b uzn\u00e1vaj\u00ed. Kdy\u017e se kdykoliv na\u0161e diskuze s domorodci (plat\u00ed pro cel\u00fd Ir\u00e1n) sto\u010dila na ot\u00e1zku v\u00edry a my \u0159ekli, ze jsme Christiana, tak ihned zpozorn\u011bli a projevili hlubok\u00fd respekt.<\/p>\n<p>Pro dne\u0161ek u\u017e dost pam\u011btihodnosti, aby se n\u00e1m nezava\u0159ila hlava. Jdeme vym\u011bnit posledn\u00edch 50 EUR a vychutnat si no\u010dn\u00ed Imam sq. Cestou se k n\u00e1m p\u0159ipojuje dvojice mlad\u00fdch \u00cdr\u00e1nc\u016f a op\u011bt diskuze o rozd\u00edlech v ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 a st\u0159edoevropsk\u00e9 kultu\u0159e. Nyn\u00ed se dozv\u00edd\u00e1m zaj\u00edmavosti o balen\u00ed holek-\u00cdr\u00e1nek a o tom, jak jsou \u017eeny v Ir\u00e1nu chr\u00e1n\u011bny p\u0159ed s\u0148atkov\u00fdmi podvodn\u00edky. Podm\u00ednky s\u0148atku si pr\u00fd v drtiv\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b p\u0159\u00edpadu diktuje \u017eena. Pr\u00fd existuje p\u0159islib ur\u010dit\u00e9 finan\u010dn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1stky, kterou by musel mu\u017e zaplatit v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b, \u017ee by se s \u017eenou rozvedl. Kluci n\u00e1s zvou na zdej\u0161\u00ed sladkou specialitu \u2013 Sohan \u2013 sladk\u00fd \u201ckol\u00e1\u010d\u201d z tuku, cukru, o\u0159\u00ed\u0161k\u016f, pist\u00e1cie atd.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den r\u00e1no vst\u00e1v\u00e1me po 9. hodin\u011b. U n\u00e1s doma se slav\u00ed osvobozen\u00ed (8\/5) a my se lou\u010d\u00edme s Esfahanem a pomalu s cel\u00fdm \u00cdr\u00e1nem. P\u0159\u00edmo na hotelu kupujeme j\u00edzdenky na z\u00edtra na autobus do Teher\u00e1nu (150 000 Rials\/2 osoby). Za poplatek 20 000 Rials n\u00e1m j\u00edzdenky vystavuje p\u00e1n p\u0159\u00edmo z recepce hostelu Amir Kabir. Jdeme na Imam sq. a d\u00e1le dovnit\u0159 jedn\u00e9 z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch me\u0161it na sv\u011bte: Imam mosque (vstup 5 000 Rials\/osobu). Obrovsk\u00e1 a kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 me\u0161ita. D\u00e1 se tu fotit. Venku proch\u00e1z\u00edme n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, ob\u011bdv\u00e1me na Hafez street kousek od n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p>Tato ulice je typick\u00e1 uk\u00e1zka \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 koncentrace obchod\u016f jednoho oboru na jednom m\u00edst\u011b \u2013 v t\u00e9to ulici je kup\u0159\u00edkladu na 50 metrech \u0161est obchod\u016f nab\u00edzej\u00edc\u00edch svatebn\u00ed ozn\u00e1men\u00ed. Pamatuji si, \u017ee na\u0161e prvn\u00ed bydlen\u00ed p\u0159ed tak\u0159ka t\u0159emi t\u00fddny v Tehranu bylo v ulici Amir Kabir, co\u017e byla \u201culice n\u00e1hradn\u00edch d\u00edl\u016f\u201d, proto\u017ee nic jin\u00e9ho ne\u017e n\u00e1hradn\u00edmi d\u00edly na cokoliv se tam nedalo koupit. Stejn\u011b tak tehransk\u00e1 ulice Ferdowsi, shir\u00e1zsk\u00e1 ulice Zand v m\u00edstech asi 200 m vpravo od Shohada sq. sm\u011brem na Imam Hossein sq. nebo esfahanska Sepah street 100 m od Imam sq. je zase domovem sm\u011bn\u00e1ren (jinde je budete sh\u00e1n\u011bt horko t\u011b\u017eko). Jinde zase na p\u00e1r metrech naleznete n\u011bkolik obchod\u016f se svatebn\u00edmi \u0161aty.<\/p>\n<p>D\u011bl\u00e1me s\u010dot zb\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00edch pen\u011bz a za posledn\u00ed Ri\u00e1ly si Zuzka kupuje vycpan\u00e9ho Pata (Aje\u0165\u00e1ci Pat a Mat jsou v \u00cdr\u00e1nu velmi obl\u00edben\u00ed), j\u00e1 vol\u00edm esfah\u00e1nsk\u00fd kovotepeck\u00fd tal\u00ed\u0159 s persk\u00fdm motivem. Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed si d\u00e1v\u00e1m \u00edr\u00e1nskou pochoutku faludeh, co\u017e jsou dlouh\u00e9 huben\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 nudle se zmrzlinou polit\u00e9 limetkovou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vou, velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed a chutn\u00e9. Podve\u010der tr\u00e1v\u00edme jako mnoho \u00cdr\u00e1nc\u016f na tr\u00e1vn\u00edku na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, meditujeme uprost\u0159ed Persk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e a m\u011b se v hlav\u011b prom\u00edt\u00e1 cel\u00fd n\u00e1\u0161 skv\u011bl\u00fd v\u00fdlet po t\u00e9to kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 zemi s v\u00fdborn\u00fdmi lidmi. V\u016fbec se mi odtud nechce.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>9-10\/5\/2012 Tehran, Imam Khomeini & Behest-e Zahra, odjezd dom\u016f<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_520\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-520\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_10.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-520\" alt=\"iran2012_10\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_10-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_10-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/iran2012_10.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-520\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hrobka Im\u00e1ma Khomeiniho, Behest-e Zahra.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Je st\u0159eda, 9. kv\u011btna 2012, 8:00 h r\u00e1no a my pomalu opou\u0161t\u00edme esfah\u00e1nsk\u00fd domov v\u011bt\u0161iny ba\u0165\u016f\u017ek\u00e1\u0159\u016f \u2013 Hostel Amir Kabir. Taxikem za 30 000 Rials jedeme na 6 km vzd\u00e1len\u00fd Kaveh Bus Terminal, odkud v 9:00 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Tehranu. Cesta je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1, z okna autobusu pozoruji pro st\u0159edoevropana netradi\u010dn\u00ed such\u00e9 pou\u0161tn\u00ed hory, kter\u00e9 vypadaj\u00ed jako namalovan\u00e9. R\u016fzn\u011b zbarven\u00e9 zeminy od \u017elut\u00e9 p\u0159es hn\u011bdou po tak\u0159ka \u010dernou tvo\u0159\u00ed zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 zemsk\u00e9 textury. Asi 100 km p\u0159ed Tehranem po prav\u00e9 stran\u011b vid\u00edm obrovskou b\u00edlou plochu soln\u00e9ho jezera Hoz-e Soltan. Vedle se pase st\u00e1do velbloud\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Kousek p\u0159ed Tehranem vystupujeme p\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159ed hrobkou Im\u00e1me Khomeiniho. Za\u010d\u00e1tkem \u010dervna 1989 se na tomto m\u00edst\u011b odehr\u00e1l jeden z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch poh\u0159b\u016f na sv\u011bt\u011b. Posledn\u00ed rozlou\u010den\u00ed se zakladatelem isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 revoluce Ayatollahem Sayyed Ruhollah Musavi Khomeinim se z\u00fa\u010dastnilo podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch zdroj\u016f a\u017e 10 000 000 \u00cdr\u00e1nc\u016f. Nyn\u00ed tu stoj\u00ed jeho mauzoleum. Je zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, \u017ee 23 let po smrti revolucion\u00e1\u0159e je cel\u00fd komplex st\u00e1le nedostav\u011bn\u00fd a hlavn\u011b uvnit\u0159 na \u010dlov\u011bka p\u016fsob\u00ed hodn\u011b m\u00edrn\u011b \u0159e\u010deno provizorn\u00edm dojmem. Na to, \u017ee by se m\u011blo jednat o jedno z neposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u00edst pro \u00cdr\u00e1nce to tu p\u016fsob\u00ed hodn\u011b zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u011b. Dovnit\u0159 je vstup zdarma, \u017eeny pouze v \u010d\u00e1doru, kter\u00fd je mo\u017eno p\u016fj\u010dit, bato\u017eina se nech\u00e1v\u00e1 v bu\u0148ce p\u0159ed vchodem. Kolem komplexu jsou obchody se suven\u00fdry s motivy Khomeiniho, fastfoody atd. Asi 500 m od komplexu je p\u0159edposledn\u00ed stanice tehransk\u00e9ho metra Haram-e Motahhar.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00edch zhruba 500 m odtud za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 obrovsk\u00fd h\u0159bitov Behest-e Zahra, co\u017e je hlavn\u00ed m\u00edsto odpo\u010dinku \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fdch ob\u011bt\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1cko-\u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. Tento obrovsk\u00fd h\u0159bitov na m\u011b zap\u016fsobil hodn\u011b zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed depresivn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9rou.<\/p>\n<p>Jeliko\u017e je teprve 16:30 h, rozhodujeme se, \u017ee pojedeme metrem do centra Tehranu. Za 40 minut vyl\u00e9z\u00e1me kousek od Imam Khomeini sq., kousek odtud je n\u00e1\u0161 prvn\u00ed hotel. D\u00e1v\u00e1m si nejhnusn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kabab co jsem tu zat\u00edm m\u011bl a v park-e Shahr se lou\u010d\u00edme s Tehranem. Po 20 h jsme op\u011bt u hrobky Khomeiniho, vyzved\u00e1v\u00e1me si batohy, zpravuji si chu\u0165 hamburgerem \ud83d\ude42 a jdeme na taxik. Jeliko\u017e m\u00e1m v kapse posledn\u00edch 130 000 Rials a 20 USD, tak se \u0159idi\u010de ani nept\u00e1m, kolik to stoj\u00ed na leti\u0161t\u011b. Za t\u011bch 30 km si nakonec bere 100 000 Rials a 10 USD, co\u017e je dost, ale m\u011b u\u017e to n\u011bjak netr\u00e1p\u00ed. Taxik\u00e1\u0159i jsou holt svin\u011b v\u0161ude a j\u00e1 si nenech\u00e1m kazit n\u00e1ladu jedn\u00edm blbcem.<\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1\u0161 v\u00fdlet je u konce. Op\u011bt n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 dlouh\u00e1 noc na leti\u0161ti, proto\u017ee na\u0161e letadlo odl\u00e9t\u00e1 v 5:00 h r\u00e1no (ostatn\u011b jako v\u017edy \u2013 Bi\u0161kek, Du\u0161anbe\u2026). V Anka\u0159e jdeme na pivo (d\u00e1 se tu platit kartou). Efes za 130 K\u010d\/0,33 l mi v\u016fbec nechutn\u00e1 (a nen\u00ed to kv\u016fli cen\u011b). A\u017e Pilsner Urquell z plechovky zakoupen\u00fd v Bille na leti\u0161ti ve V\u00eddni mi d\u00e1v\u00e1 d\u016fkaz, \u017ee m\u011b \u00cdr\u00e1n aspo\u0148 v jedn\u00e9 v\u011bci nezm\u011bnil \u2013 chu\u0165 k dobr\u00e9mu \u010desk\u00e9mu le\u017e\u00e1ku mi zapla\u0165all\u00e1h z\u016fstala!<\/p>\n<p><em>Khoda hafez va motashakkeram Iran \/ Nashledanou a d\u011bkujeme \u00cdr\u00e1nu<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Moje post\u0159ehy a rady z \u00cdr\u00e1nu si m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-rady-postrehy-ceny-myty-a-fakta\/\">zde<\/a>.\u00a0\u010cl\u00e1nek o tomto na\u0161em v\u00fdlet\u011b vy\u0161el v P\u011bn\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m Zpravodaji 6\/2012 <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2012_pencinskyzpravodaj.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2012-Iran\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/propagace\/\">Propagace<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-rady-postrehy-ceny-myty-a-fakta\/\">M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>FOTOGALERIE\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Propagace\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0M\u00e9 rady a n\u00e1zory na \u00cdr\u00e1n Na\u0161\u00edm pl\u00e1nem na jaro 2012 je n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Ir\u00e1nu \u017d\u00e1dost o v\u00edza jsem pod\u00e1val na pra\u017esk\u00e9 amb\u00e1s\u00e1d\u011b Ir\u00e1nsk\u00e9 isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 republiky 20. \u00fanora 2012. Bohu\u017eel do odletu jsme v\u00edza nedostali, tak\u017ee jsme zbyte\u010dn\u011b p\u0159i\u0161ly o 50 \u20ac\/osobu. Riskneme to s \u017e\u00e1dost\u00ed o v\u00edza p\u0159\u00edmo na leti\u0161ti v Tehranu. Pl\u00e1novan\u00fd … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">\u00cdr\u00e1n – poprv\u00e9 v Persii 2012<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">→<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/iran-2012-mashhad-tabas-yazd-shiraz-busher-esfahan\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-248","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopisy","category-clanky","category-svet"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-40","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=248"}],"version-history":[{"count":21,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1106,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248\/revisions\/1106"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=248"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=248"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=248"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}