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{"id":243,"date":"2013-10-18T11:49:25","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T11:49:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=243"},"modified":"2014-02-16T08:55:55","modified_gmt":"2014-02-16T08:55:55","slug":"tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/","title":{"rendered":"HUMI OUTDOOR – Tian Shan – Kyrgyzst\u00e1n – Kantbastau 2010"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"title_tian_shan_2010\"$ <\/p>\n

\u010clenov\u00e9: Zdenda Bouda, Fanda Ulrich, Ruda \u010cern\u00fd, Vladim\u00edr Soj\u00e1k, Jajka \u0160karoupkov\u00e1, Eva Kas\u00edkov\u00e1<\/em><\/p>\n

FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Rud\u016fv den\u00edk<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/iframe> \n17. 7. 2010 Sobota<\/strong> \nOdlet z Prahy ve 13:00h, bag\u00e1\u017e vy\u0161la na gram p\u0159esn\u011b, v Moskv\u011b jsme v 17:30h m\u00edstn\u00edho \u010dasu. Mal\u00fd Budvar za 1,5\u20ac usnad\u0148uje \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed na let do Bi\u0161keku. Odl\u00e9t\u00e1me s hodinov\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm chv\u00edli p\u0159ed p\u016flnoc\u00ed.<\/p>\n18. 7. 2010 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nP\u0159\u00edlet do Bi\u0161keku v 6:00h, vy\u0159izujeme v\u00edza (60\u20ac\/osobu, v roce 2008 to bylo 30\u20ac!). V leti\u0161tn\u00ed hale na n\u00e1s ji\u017e dv\u011b hodiny \u010dek\u00e1 Dinara \u2013 d\u00edvka z Aksai Travel (www.ak-sai.com, info@ak-sai.com), se kterou jsem dop\u0159edu po mailu domluvil odvoz tranzitem z Bi\u0161keku do Grigoryevky. Pozd\u011bji se uk\u00e1zalo, \u017ee sh\u00e1n\u011bn\u00ed dopravy p\u0159edem pod medi\u00e1ln\u00edm tlakem nep\u0159\u00edzniv\u00fdch zpr\u00e1v o \u0161patn\u00e9 vnitropolitick\u00e9 situaci v Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu, bylo zbyte\u010dn\u00e9 a drah\u00e9 (doprava Bi\u0161kek \u2013 Grigoryevka 30\u20ac\/osobu, mar\u0161rutka by st\u00e1la cca 6-7\u20ac). Vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed cena byla dan\u00ed za jistotu a klid. V Bi\u0161keku se stavujeme v supermarketu zcela evropsk\u00e9ho konzumn\u00edho stylu. V Cholpon-At\u011b jsme za 4 hodiny j\u00edzdy (12:00h), koupa\u010dka v Issyk-Kulu (hladina 1600m). Ve 13:00h n\u00e1s \u0159idi\u010d vyhazuje na p\u0159edem smluven\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b (1700m) \u2013 vstup do doliny Chong-Ak-Suu kousek nad m\u011bstem Grigoryevka.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_579\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-579\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-579\" alt=\"1\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-579\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">B\u00edl\u00fd Klobouk, 4209 m, jeden z na\u0161ich c\u00edl\u016f.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nJe tu br\u00e1na a za vstup do doliny se vyb\u00edr\u00e1 20 Som\u016f\/osobu (100 Som\u016f = cca 40 K\u010d). Prvn\u00ed polovina doliny (do 2300m) slou\u017e\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edm jako m\u00edsto pro obl\u00edben\u00e9 pikniky v p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b, d\u00e1le se rozprost\u00edraj\u00ed pastviny pro kon\u011b a dobytek (do 3100m) a konec doliny je ji\u017e skalnat\u00fd. Na jihu u jezera sv\u00edt\u00ed slunce, na severu v dolin\u011b je zamra\u010deno a pr\u0161\u00ed. S Fandou domlouv\u00e1me odvoz dolinou nahoru a\u017e ke druh\u00e9mu jezeru (2500m). Cena 3000 Som\u016f\/auto se hlavn\u011b Jajce zd\u00e1 vysok\u00e1, ale pozd\u011bji se ukazuje, \u017ee zcela odpov\u00edd\u00e1 poskytnut\u00e9 slu\u017eb\u011b. Do mal\u00e9ho gaziku se vm\u011bstn\u00e1v\u00e1 n\u00e1s \u0161est i s batohy+\u0159idi\u010d+jeden pastevec, nezapomenuteln\u00fd sardinkov\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. V 15:00h jsme u druh\u00e9ho jezera (2500m), auto n\u00e1m u\u0161et\u0159ilo den a p\u016fl tvrd\u00e9ho pochodu. Je po de\u0161ti, stav\u00edme stany a jdeme brzo sp\u00e1t. \u00danava po dlouh\u00e9m cestov\u00e1n\u00ed je zn\u00e1t.<\/p>\n19. 7. 2010 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nV 9:00h vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme ji\u017e po sv\u00fdch dolinou vzh\u016fru, stoup\u00e1n\u00ed je pozvoln\u00e9. Po\u010das\u00ed prom\u011bnliv\u00e9, ka\u017edou p\u016flhodinu de\u0161\u0165ov\u00e1 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka. M\u00edj\u00edme pasteveck\u00e9 jurty, st\u00e1da kon\u00ed a dobytka, brod\u00edme n\u011bkolik prav\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edtok\u016f Chong-Ak-Suu. Nal\u00e9z\u00e1m podkovu \u2013 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. V 15:00h stav\u00edme s F\u00e1nou stan na kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 rovn\u00e9 travnat\u00e9 plo\u0161e (3000m) p\u0159\u00edmo u \u0159eky. Kousek od n\u00e1s je pasteveck\u00e9 staven\u00ed a st\u00e1do kon\u00ed, nad n\u00e1mi se ty\u010d\u00ed Pik Aj-\u0164or a bezejmenn\u00fd Pik 4209, kter\u00fd se nab\u00edz\u00ed sv\u00fdm charakteristick\u00fdm tvarem k pojmenov\u00e1n\u00ed \u201eB\u00edl\u00fd Klobouk\u201c. Spole\u010dnost n\u00e1m do ve\u010dera d\u011blaj\u00ed dva pasteve\u010dt\u00ed kluci. Ruda s Jajkou a Vladim\u00edr s Evou stav\u011bj\u00ed stany kousek d\u00e1l. Po\u010das\u00ed se na ve\u010der vylep\u0161uje a sv\u00edt\u00ed slunce.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_580\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-580\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/22.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-580\" alt=\"2\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/22-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/22-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/22.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-580\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruda se nedobrovoln\u011b koupe p\u0159i p\u0159eskakov\u00e1n\u00ed \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Chong Ak Suu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n20. 7. 2010 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nV 9:00h po sbalen\u00ed vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme d\u00e1l k ostatn\u00edm (30minut). V hlav\u011b m\u00e1m v\u00edce pl\u00e1n\u016f: 1) B\u00edl\u00fd Klobouk p\u0159\u00edmo nad n\u00e1mi, 2) pokra\u010dovat dolinou d\u00e1le na v\u00fdchod a\u017e pod pereval Ak-Suu a najmout si na bag\u00e1\u017e kon\u011b, 3) dle p\u016fvodn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu pokra\u010dovat dolinou na severo-v\u00fdchod pod Pik Kantbastau. Pastevci po\u017eaduj\u00ed za kon\u011b nesmysln\u00fdch 3000 Som\u016f, co\u017e samoz\u0159ejm\u011b odm\u00edt\u00e1me a p\u0159ehodnocujeme sv\u016fj pohled na n\u011b \u2013 asi to nebudou takov\u00fd chud\u00e1ci, kdy\u017e ohrnuj\u00ed nos nad n\u00e1mi nab\u00edzen\u00fdch 600 Som\u016f. Rozhodujeme se tedy pokra\u010dovat dle p\u016fvodn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu pod Pik Kantbastau. Ve 12:00h p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00edme \u0159eku Chong-Ak-Suu z prav\u00e9ho na lev\u00fd b\u0159eh. F\u00e1na, Eva a Ruda se nedobrovoln\u011b koupaj\u00ed. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 ji\u017e n\u011bkolik\u00e1t\u00e1 de\u0161\u0165ov\u00e1 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka s bou\u0159kou. Stoup\u00e1me dolinou na sever pod Pik Kantbastau, nejd\u0159\u00edve pod\u00e9l potoka tekouc\u00edho z ledovce, pozd\u011bji se tok ztr\u00e1c\u00ed a jdeme pod\u00e9l star\u00e9 mor\u00e9ny. S 30ti kilov\u00fdmi b\u00e1gly je to z\u00e1hul. V 15:30h stav\u00edme t\u00e1bor (3500m), ledovec je na dohled, nad n\u00e1mi se ty\u010d\u00ed \u00fa\u017easn\u00fd Pik Kantbastau (4570m) a vodu m\u00e1me 5minut od stanu. P\u011bkn\u00e9 m\u00edsto na posledn\u00ed tr\u00e1v\u011b, zde budeme m\u00edt dal\u0161\u00ed dny n\u00e1\u0161 z\u00e1kladn\u00ed t\u00e1bor. V\u0161ichni toho m\u00e1me po dne\u0161ku dost, m\u011b a F\u00e1nu bol\u00ed hlava (kombinace v\u00fd\u0161ky a m\u00e1lo pit\u00ed), ostatn\u00ed t\u011b\u017e\u00ed z alpsk\u00e9 aklimatizace, kterou absolvovali p\u0159ed dv\u011bma t\u00fddny. Jen co si vlezeme do stan\u016f, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pr\u0161et a pr\u0161\u00ed a\u017e do noci.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_581\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-581\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/31.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-581\" alt=\"3\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/31-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/31-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/31.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-581\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fanda v t\u00e1bo\u0159e pod Kantbastau, asi 3000 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n21. 7. 2010 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no u\u017e hlava nebol\u00ed, ale d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 nep\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1. \u010ctvrt hodiny pr\u0161\u00ed, \u010dtvrt hodiny nepr\u0161\u00ed a tak se to po\u0159\u00e1d st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1. S Fandou va\u0159\u00edme bramborovou ka\u0161i \u2013 prvn\u00ed velk\u00e9 j\u00eddlo po dvou dnech. Ve 14:00h kone\u010dn\u011b vysv\u00edt\u00e1 slun\u00ed\u010dko (25\u00b0C) a my si p\u0159ed stanem stav\u00edme luxusn\u00ed kuchy\u0148 z kamen\u00ed. Po\u010das\u00ed dr\u017e\u00ed tak se jdeme pod\u00edvat bl\u00ed\u017eeji k ledovci, abychom prozkoumali mo\u017enosti v\u00fdstupu na Pik Kantbastau, kter\u00fd pl\u00e1nujeme na z\u00edtra. Na ledovec je to cca 40minut traverzov\u00e1n\u00ed po suti, v\u00fdstupov\u00e1 v\u00fdchodn\u00ed st\u011bna Kantbastau je zakryta za rohem, ale n\u00e1stup je jasn\u00fd. Zaj\u00edmav\u011b se jev\u00ed i h\u0159eben \u010dty\u0159tis\u00edcov\u00fdch vrchol\u016f p\u0159\u00edmo naproti na\u0161emu z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00edmu c\u00edli a dolinka p\u0159\u00edmo nad na\u0161imi stany. V 17:00h p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed mraky, teplota kles\u00e1 na 5\u00b0C a op\u011bt \u201ejedou s vodou\u201c.<\/p>\n22. 7. 2010 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b nepr\u0161\u00ed, vypad\u00e1 to slibn\u011b. Vst\u00e1v\u00e1me v 7:00h, va\u0159\u00edme \u010daj, bal\u00edme v\u011bci na t\u016fru a v 8:00h vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na Pik Kantbastau. Cestou na ledovec nejprve stoup\u00e1me pevnou pozd\u011bji traverzujeme velmi nestabiln\u00ed sut\u00ed, kdy uj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed kamen\u00ed ovl\u00e1d\u00e1 na\u0161e pohyby. V 9:00h ji\u017e stoj\u00edme na ledovci. P\u00e1r stovek metr\u016f po n\u011bm m\u00edrn\u011b stoup\u00e1me severn\u00edm sm\u011brem a pak uh\u00fdb\u00e1me doleva (3650m) a ji\u017e strm\u011bji stoup\u00e1me su\u0165ovou str\u00e1n\u00ed v\u00fdchodn\u00ed st\u011bny Kantbastau ke stejnojmenn\u00e9mu ledovci (3800m). Otev\u00edr\u00e1 se n\u00e1m pohled na sedlo Ry\u017eskij a v\u00fdchodn\u00ed vrchol Kantbastau (4500m). Vypad\u00e1 to re\u00e1ln\u011b, po\u010das\u00ed n\u00e1m p\u0159eje. Cestu p\u0159es ledovec nejprve vy\u0161lap\u00e1v\u00e1 F\u00e1na, st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1m ho j\u00e1 a Vladim\u00edr, prvn\u00ed to m\u00e1 nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed, proto\u017ee se bo\u0159\u00ed 20cm do sn\u011bhu.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_583\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-583\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/41.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-583\" alt=\"4\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/41-199x300.jpg\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/41-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/41.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-583\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jajka stoup\u00e1 na Kantbastau – v\u00fdchodn\u00ed vrchol.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nVe v\u00fd\u0161ce 4000m se rozhodujeme, \u017ee nebudeme postupovat do sedla, proto\u017ee by to znamenalo del\u0161\u00ed cestu, ale narovn\u00e1v\u00e1me linii p\u0159\u00edmo sm\u011brem k v\u00fdchodn\u00edmu vrcholu p\u0159es sn\u011bhovoledovou 50\u00b0 strmou st\u011bnu. Je to asi 150m v\u00fd\u0161vih, pot\u00e9 se ter\u00e9n op\u011bt narovn\u00e1v\u00e1 a n\u00e1m se odhaluje cel\u00e1 severn\u00ed st\u011bna v\u00fdchodn\u00edho vrcholu a fam\u00f3zn\u00ed pyramida hlavn\u00edho vrcholu. Hlavn\u00ed vrchol z t\u00e9to strany vypad\u00e1 nedobytn\u011b \u2013 cesta p\u0159es ledovec k vrcholov\u00e9 pyramid\u011b vysok\u00e9 p\u0159es 300m je roztrhan\u00e1 \u010detn\u00fdmi trhlinami a seraky a fin\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdstup po hran\u011b by byl extr\u00e9mn\u00edm lezeck\u00fdm podnikem. Zva\u017eujeme mo\u017enosti a vyhodnocujeme pokus o hlavn\u00ed vrchol jako p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 riskantn\u00ed kv\u016fli vysok\u00fdm objektivn\u00edm rizik\u016fm.<\/p>\nRozhodujeme se pro v\u00fdstup severn\u00ed st\u011bnou v\u00fdchodn\u00edho vrcholu Kantbastau. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b asi 100m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch po ledovci pod st\u011bnu a tou pak je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00edch 200m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch. Slunce sv\u00edt\u00ed a v\u00fdhledy na cel\u00fd Tian Shan jsou \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9. Cestu pod st\u011bnu vy\u0161lap\u00e1v\u00e1 Vladim\u00edr, po p\u00e1r metrech v\u00fdstupu st\u011bnou (sklon 35\u00b0 \u2013 40\u00b0) ho st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1m j\u00e1. P\u0159es 200m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch lezen\u00ed severn\u00ed st\u011bnou n\u00e1m trv\u00e1 skoro hodinu a ke konci mi u\u017e p\u0159ijde dlouh\u00e9 a \u00fanavn\u00e9. Ve 14:30h kone\u010dn\u011b nen\u00ed kam stoupat!!! Vrchol!!! 4500m nad mo\u0159em, v\u00fdchodn\u00ed vrchol Kantbastau! Ledov\u00e1 pyramida hlavn\u00edho vrcholu je od n\u00e1s kousek, ale vypad\u00e1 nedobytn\u011b.<\/p>\nPo p\u016flhodince str\u00e1ven\u00e9 na vrcholu za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me opatrn\u011b sestupovat. Bez ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed je to trochu o hubu, ale za 20 minut jsme ji\u017e na ledovcov\u00e9m plat\u00f3 pod severn\u00ed st\u011bnou v\u00fdchodn\u00edho vrcholu Kantbastau. M\u00edsty sestup urychlujeme j\u00edzdou po zadku, ledov\u00e1 st\u011bna pod sedlem jde takt\u00e9\u017e rychleji ne\u017e nahoru, ale \u00fanava se ji\u017e oz\u00fdv\u00e1. S Fandou m\u00e1me p\u0159ed ostatn\u00edmi trochu n\u00e1skok, u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si kouzelnou samotu uprost\u0159ed velehor. Z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fd traverz sut\u00ed je boj. Ke stanu dor\u00e1\u017e\u00edme kolem 18. hodiny, m\u00e1me toho pln\u00e9 zuby. Dvacet minut jen tak le\u017e\u00edme a v duchu si prom\u00edt\u00e1me dne\u0161n\u00ed na z\u00e1\u017eitky bohat\u00fd den, podkova n\u00e1m p\u0159inesla \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed \u2013 cel\u00fd den po\u010das\u00ed vydr\u017eelo. Za hodinu p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed ostatn\u00ed.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_584\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-584\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/51.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-584\" alt=\"5\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/51-199x300.jpg\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/51-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/51.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-584\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vrcholov\u00e9 foto na V\u00fdchodn\u00edm vrcholu Kantbastau.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n23. 7. 2010 \u2013 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nCel\u00fd den relax, dopoledne slune\u010dn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed. Focen\u00ed kv\u011bteny, stavba mu\u017e\u00edka p\u0159ed stanem, po x dnech dobr\u00e9 j\u00eddlo \u2013 sma\u017een\u00e1 cibulka se sal\u00e1mem a bramborovou ka\u0161\u00ed, slivovice. Odpoledne d\u00e9\u0161\u0165, nave\u010der velice fotogenick\u00e9 \u010dist\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed. Pl\u00e1nujeme program na p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed dny. S F\u00e1nou chceme z\u00edtra sej\u00edt dol\u016f k \u0159ece Chong-Ak-Suu a vystoupat pod B\u00edl\u00fd Klobouk a dal\u0161\u00ed den zkusit vrchol. Holky s Rudou a Vladim\u00edrem \u017eehraj\u00ed, \u017ee nemaj\u00ed dostatek j\u00eddla (p\u0159itom n\u00e1mi nab\u00edzen\u00e9 bramborov\u00e9 ka\u0161e necht\u011bj\u00ed). Cht\u011bj\u00ed z\u00edtra zkusit bezejmenn\u00fd Pik 4375 v h\u0159ebeni naproti Kantbastau a pot\u00e9 seb\u011bhnout dolinou k jezeru Issyk-Kul, kde bychom se v\u0161ichni m\u011bli sej\u00edt. Podle n\u00e1s zbyte\u010dn\u011b posp\u00edchaj\u00ed z hor.<\/p>\n24. 7. 2010 \u2013 Sobota<\/strong> \nV noci bylo jasno a je to zn\u00e1t na teplot\u011b (-5\u00b0C). R\u00e1no n\u00e1s v\u00edt\u00e1 fam\u00f3zn\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed \u2013 poprv\u00e9 je od r\u00e1na zcela jasno. Ruda s Vladim\u00edrem a holkami vyr\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed v 8h za sv\u00fdm c\u00edlem. J\u00e1 s Fandou se pomalu bal\u00edme a lou\u010d\u00edme se s t\u00e1borem. Sestup k brodu p\u0159es \u0159eku Chong-Ak-Suu n\u00e1m trv\u00e1 40 minut, po\u010das\u00ed \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9, u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si to. Brod \u0159eky vzhledem k \u010dasn\u00e9mu dopoledni je bezprobl\u00e9mov\u00fd. Pokra\u010dujeme po prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu \u0159eky, kudy jsme \u0161li v protism\u011bru p\u0159ed p\u00e1r dny. Neztr\u00e1c\u00edme v\u00fd\u0161ku a traverzujeme S svah a\u017e do m\u00edst, kde \u0159\u00ed\u010dka Teret\u011br zasek\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed. Odtud stoup\u00e1me pod\u00e9l \u0159\u00ed\u010dky vzh\u016fru.<\/p>\nVlevo n\u00e1s fascinuje S st\u011bna Aj-\u0164oru (m\u00edstn\u00ed Matterhorn). V d\u00e1lce ji\u017e vykukuje charakteristick\u00fd bochn\u00edk na\u0161eho bodu z\u00e1jmu \u2013 B\u00edl\u00fd Klobouk (4209m). \u0158\u00ed\u010dka za chv\u00edli miz\u00ed v prav\u00e9m svahu (3150m), my pokra\u010dujeme dolinou a\u017e do v\u00fd\u0161ky 3300m, kde je travnat\u00fd koberec utnut su\u0165ovou mor\u00e9nou. Na posledn\u00edm travnat\u00e9m pl\u00e1cku stav\u00edme n\u00e1\u0161 stan (13:30h). Je to fajn m\u00edsto (3300m), a\u017e na st\u00e1do krav, co\u017e zp\u016fsobuje velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed kravinc\u016f a much a stan je m\u00edrn\u011b z kopce. Voda z ledovce te\u010de hned vedle. Slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed, vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me \u010das k celkov\u00e9 hygien\u011b t\u011bla, po t\u00fddnu neskute\u010dn\u00e1 par\u00e1da. V noci se p\u0159es n\u00e1s p\u0159eh\u00e1n\u00ed ohromn\u00e1 hodinov\u00e1 bou\u0159ka, nejprve kroupy a pak d\u00e9\u0161\u0165. Potoky vody proud\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo pod na\u0161\u00edm stanem, Jurek zaslou\u017e\u00ed pochvalu.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_586\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-586\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/61.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-586\" alt=\"6\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/61-300x146.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"146\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/61-300x146.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/61.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-586\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tian Shan z vrcholu B\u00edl\u00e9ho Klobouku.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n25. 7. 2010 \u2013 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no vst\u00e1v\u00e1me v 6:30h, po\u010das\u00ed pod mrakem, ale zd\u00e1 se, \u017ee obla\u010dnost je vysok\u00e1. Va\u0159\u00edme \u010daj a v 7h vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. Stoup\u00e1me vzh\u016fru sut\u00ed a po 40 minut\u00e1ch se n\u00e1m otev\u00edr\u00e1 pohled na Klobouk a na\u0161\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00ed t\u016fru. Pod n\u00e1mi je ledovcov\u00e9 jezero, nad n\u00edm ledovec Klobouku. Sch\u00e1z\u00edme k jezeru a op\u011bt stoup\u00e1me pod\u00e9l ledovcov\u00e9ho potoka. V 8:15h ji\u017e kr\u00e1\u010d\u00edme po ledovci, kter\u00fd je m\u011bkk\u00fd a ob\u010das se bo\u0159\u00edme. Po necel\u00e9 hodin\u011b m\u00edrn\u00e9ho stoup\u00e1n\u00ed po ledovci p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161vih ke skal\u00e1m. Bl\u00e1hov\u011b si mysl\u00edme, \u017ee tyto sk\u00e1ly ji\u017e ozna\u010duj\u00ed sedlo. Zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 do sedla je\u0161t\u011b nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch 30 minut cesty, nav\u00edc po kolena ve sn\u011bhu. Kdy\u017e se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me kone\u010dn\u011b do sedla (4000m), odm\u011bna je velik\u00e1 \u2013 po\u010das\u00ed se zlep\u0161uje, mraky se trhaj\u00ed a n\u00e1m se otev\u00edr\u00e1 fantastick\u00fd pohled na blankytn\u011b modr\u00e9 jezero Issyk-Kul. U\u017e tento pohled st\u00e1l za tu n\u00e1mahu, velk\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. Na severn\u00edm b\u0159ehu rozpozn\u00e1v\u00e1me vesnice a m\u011bste\u010dka necel\u00fdch 20 km od n\u00e1s. Jsou vid\u011bt i b\u00edl\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty Terskey Alatau na jihu jezera vzd\u00e1len\u00e9 tak\u0159ka 100 km! Te\u010f n\u00e1s u\u017e \u010dek\u00e1 jen 200m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch lehk\u00fdm kamenit\u00fdm h\u0159eb\u00ednkem.<\/p>\nV 11:15h jsme na rozlo\u017eit\u00e9m vrcholu! Na jih sb\u00edhaj\u00ed sr\u00e1zy Klobouku do skalnat\u00fdch st\u011bn, na S te\u010de ledovec, po kter\u00e9m jsme vystoupali my. Na S pozn\u00e1v\u00e1me Kantbastau \u2013 v\u00fdrazn\u00e1 dvouvrcholov\u00e1 dominanta. Bohu\u017eel po\u010das\u00ed n\u00e1m na vrcholu uk\u00e1zalo m\u00e9n\u011b p\u0159\u00edv\u011btivou tv\u00e1\u0159 ne\u017e v sedle. Na jezero u\u017e nevid\u00edme. Chv\u00edli tu hrajeme karty, ob\u010derstvujeme se, fot\u00edme a ve 12:15h sch\u00e1z\u00edme dol\u016f stejnou cestou. U ledovcov\u00e9ho jezera nad na\u0161\u00edm stanem jsme ve 13:20h a u stanu ve 14h. Po\u010das\u00ed u\u017e op\u011bt slune\u010dn\u00e9. U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si dobr\u00fdch pocit\u016f po \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9m v\u00fdstupu, koupeme se v ledovcov\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u010dce, dopl\u0148ujeme tekutiny a energii. V 16:30h se bal\u00edme a sch\u00e1z\u00edme k \u0159ece Chong-Ak-Suu do m\u00edst, kde jsme stanovali p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu dolinou vzh\u016fru p\u0159ed t\u00fddnem (3000m). Ihned n\u00e1s nav\u0161t\u011bvuj\u00ed zn\u00e1m\u00ed pasteve\u010dt\u00ed kluci. Toto m\u00edsto m\u00e1 v\u00fdhodu oproti bivaku pod Kloboukem, \u017ee je stan na rovin\u011b. Po n\u011bkolika dnech, kdy jsme spali na hrbolat\u00e9 zemi je toto velk\u00e1 odm\u011bna.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_589\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-589\" style=\"width: 238px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/71.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-589\" alt=\"7\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/71-238x300.jpg\" width=\"238\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/71-238x300.jpg 238w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/71.jpg 636w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 238px) 100vw, 238px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-589\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bal\u00edme se pod Kloboukem a hur\u00e1 na pivo!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n26. 7. 2010 \u2013 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nVych\u00e1z\u00edme v 9h a sch\u00e1z\u00edme dolinou do civilizace. Po 70 minut\u00e1ch nar\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na zbytek na\u0161\u00ed party, kte\u0159\u00ed tu t\u00e1bo\u0159\u00ed. Kousek odtud je mal\u00e1 osada pasteveck\u00fdch jurt. V jedn\u00e9 z nich ochutn\u00e1v\u00e1me vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed ml\u00e9ko a poctivou smetanu. Pastevci n\u00e1m sami nab\u00edz\u00ed, \u017ee n\u00e1s svezou autem dol\u016f do Grigoryevky za 2000 Som\u016f za celou partu. Nab\u00eddku vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me po 13. hodin\u011b jsme ji\u017e ve m\u011bst\u011b u jezera Issyk-Kul! Dal\u0161\u00ed auto n\u00e1s dov\u00e1\u017e\u00ed do rekrea\u010dn\u00edho letoviska Bosteri, kde hned u silnice nab\u00edzej\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny pokoje k pron\u00e1jmu. Za 200 Som\u016f\/\u010dlov\u011bka\/noc bereme kvart\u00fdr hned u hlavn\u00ed silnice. Po\u010das\u00ed je skv\u011bl\u00e9 a nic nebr\u00e1n\u00ed tomu, abychom se za\u010dali odd\u00e1vat pln\u00fdmi dou\u0161ky ve\u0161ker\u00fdm po\u017eitk\u016fm kyrgyzsk\u00e9 zem\u011b. Za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed dva dny pln\u00e9 hodov\u00e1n\u00ed, pit\u00ed a skv\u011bl\u00fdch z\u00e1\u017eitk\u016f (horsk\u00e1 dr\u00e1ha, rusk\u00e9 kolo, st\u0159elba na ter\u010d, \u0161lapadlo). Piv a \u0161a\u0161lik\u016f nepo\u010d\u00edtan\u011b, prost\u011b jsem povolili ventily ut\u00e1hnut\u00e9 v hor\u00e1ch \ud83d\ude42 P\u0159ekvapiv\u011b jsme k r\u00e1nu spr\u00e1vn\u011b trefili do bytu, kde z n\u00e1s m\u011bli ostatn\u00ed up\u0159\u00edmnou radost \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n27. 7. 2010 \u2013 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nNemlich to sam\u00e9 co o dva \u0159\u00e1dky v\u00fd\u0161e \ud83d\ude42 P\u0159esn\u00e9 detaily t\u011bchto dvou dn\u016f zji\u0161\u0165ujeme a\u017e zp\u011btn\u011b z fotek \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\nVe\u010der se shodujeme, \u017ee ob\u017e\u00e9rstv\u00ed bylo ji\u017e dost a pl\u00e1nujeme, co podnikneme p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed dny. Shoda panuje na poho\u0159\u00ed Terskey Alatau, kter\u00e9 je p\u0159\u00edmo naproti p\u0159es jezero, volba pad\u00e1 na dolinu Koksai (na map\u011b vypad\u00e1 hezky \ud83d\ude42 ).<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_590\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-590\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-590\" alt=\"8\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8-300x213.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"213\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8-300x213.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-590\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fanda na velbloudovi u jezera Issyk Kul. Tam jsme si to u\u017e\u00edvali…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n28. 7. 2010 \u2013 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nZ Bosteri odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme mar\u0161rutkou do Balikchi (m\u011bsto na z\u00e1padn\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed jezera), cena 250 Som\u016f\/osobu, cca 130 km) a odtud do Koksai na jihu jezera, cena (1400 Som\u016f\/6 lid\u00ed), cca 150 km. Cestu do Balikchi zn\u00e1me \u2013 frekventovan\u00e1 silnice p\u0159\u00edmo po S pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed jezera Issyk-Kul. Cesta po ji\u017en\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je jin\u00e1 \u2013 krajina je daleko su\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u2013 polopou\u0161tn\u00ed a\u017e pou\u0161tn\u00ed charakter, vesnice chud\u0161\u00ed a zaostalej\u0161\u00ed, daleko m\u00e9n\u011b aut a silnice vede od vody 2-3 km. Ve vesnici Ak-sai vyzv\u00edd\u00e1me od m\u00edstn\u00edch jak se dostaneme do vesnice Koksai, kter\u00e1 je sm\u011brem do hor do vnitrozem\u00ed, a dopl\u0148ujeme z\u00e1soby v chud\u00e9m magaz\u00ednku. Koksai je velmi chud\u00e9 a neupraven\u00e9 s\u00eddlo zem\u011bd\u011blc\u016f v \u00fadol\u00ed mezi poho\u0159\u00edm Akbak\u0161i na severu a Terskey Alatau na jihu. Vesnice roku to z\u0159ejm\u011b nebude. Cesta do na\u0161\u00ed doliny Koksai nad vesnic\u00ed nen\u00ed zcela jednoduch\u00e1, mot\u00e1me se po zarostl\u00fdch pol\u00edch a Fanda si vyb\u00edr\u00e1 svou slab\u0161\u00ed (nasran\u011bj\u0161\u00ed) chvilku. Po 1h kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme do \u00fast\u00ed doliny a pokra\u010dujeme vzh\u016fru pod\u00e9l stejnojmenn\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u010dky. S Fandou stav\u00edme stan ve v\u00fd\u0161ci 2350m (17:00h), ostatn\u00ed pokra\u010duj\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b v\u00fd\u0161. V noci d\u00e9\u0161t.<\/p>\n29. 7. 2010 \u2013 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nPo p\u016fl des\u00e1t\u00e9 vych\u00e1z\u00edme vzh\u016fru pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Koksai. Za 1 h a 15 min nab\u00edr\u00e1me 300m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch, velk\u00e9 dusno. Zbytek party v nedohlednu. Od 2700m se dolina pokl\u00e1d\u00e1 a metry nab\u00edhaj\u00ed pomalu, jde se t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 po rovin\u011b. M\u00edj\u00edme dv\u011b pasteveck\u00e1 staven\u00ed a u t\u0159et\u00edho (2950m) stav\u00edme stan (13:00h), proto\u017ee za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pr\u0161et. D\u00e9\u0161\u0165 trv\u00e1 do p\u016fl p\u00e1t\u00e9, hory nad n\u00e1mi pouze tu\u0161\u00edme, p\u0159es mraky nen\u00ed nic vid\u011bt. Va\u0159\u00edme j\u00eddlo. P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed k n\u00e1m pastevec z bl\u00edzk\u00e9ho staven\u00ed, vym\u011bnujeme s n\u00edm instatn\u00ed pol\u00e9vky a bramborovou ka\u0161i (s odborn\u00fdm v\u00fdkladem p\u0159\u00edpravy) za vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed ajran a klasick\u00fd kumyz (na n\u011bj si fakt u\u017e asi nikdy nezvyknu, tenhle je je\u0161t\u011b hor\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e obvykle). Po chv\u00edli se u n\u00e1s stavuj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed dva pastevci, bav\u00edme se o na\u0161ich pl\u00e1nech, jejich \u017eivot\u011b atd. Voz\u00edm se na koni jednoho z nich. Od pastevc\u016f se dozv\u00edd\u00e1me, \u017ee na\u0161i druzi jsou cca 40 minut nad n\u00e1mi. Ve\u010der op\u011bt za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pr\u0161et a leje celou noc.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_591\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-591\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/91.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-591\" alt=\"9\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/91-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/91-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/91.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-591\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">S pastevci v hor\u00e1ch nad vesnic\u00ed Koksai.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n30. 7. 2010 \u2013 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nPo\u010das\u00ed stabiln\u00ed \u2013 bu\u010f pr\u0161\u00ed nebo leje. Hory nejsou p\u0159es barik\u00e1du mrak\u016f vid\u011bt. Nebav\u00ed n\u00e1s to tu. Rozhodujeme se, \u017ee n\u00e1\u0161 pobyt v dolin\u011b Koksai rychle ukon\u010d\u00edme. Nevid\u00edme smysl dal\u0161\u00edho setrv\u00e1n\u00ed na tomto m\u00edst\u011b. M\u00edstn\u00edmu pastevci d\u00e1v\u00e1me dopis pro na\u0161e druhy, kde jim d\u00e1v\u00e1me na v\u011bdom\u00ed na\u0161e pl\u00e1ny. Sejdeme se bu\u010f u jezera nebo a\u017e v Bi\u0161keku na leti\u0161ti.<\/p>\nDol\u016f sb\u00edh\u00e1me pod\u00e9l d\u016fmysln\u00e9ho aquaduktu, kter\u00fd z\u00e1sobuje vodou usedlosti v \u00fadol\u00ed, do vesnice Toguzbulak. Kousek nad vesnic\u00ed n\u00e1m jeden domorod\u00fd pastevec nab\u00edz\u00ed kumyz, ale po v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed zku\u0161enosti s radost\u00ed odm\u00edt\u00e1me. Kolem 13:30h jsme kone\u010dn\u011b ve vesnici. Ve skromn\u00e9m magaz\u00ednku kupujeme zmrzlinu, pivo je tepl\u00e9. Zastavujeme proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed auto a ihned domlouv\u00e1me odvoz do 30km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho Tonu k jezeru Issyk-Kul (cena 600 Som\u016f za 2 osoby). T\u011bsn\u011b za vesnic\u00ed na\u0161e auto Ford Charisma selh\u00e1v\u00e1, \u0159idi\u010d vol\u00e1 pro druh\u00e9 auto. Audi 80 n\u00e1s ji\u017e bez probl\u00e9m\u016f odv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed k jezeru. Dokonce se mi zd\u00e1, \u017ee nov\u00fd \u0159idi\u010d chce smazat \u010dasovou ztr\u00e1tu vzniklou poruchou prvn\u00edho vozu, proto\u017ee opravdu kvaltuje.<\/p>\nJi\u017en\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed jezera n\u00e1s u vesnice Ton v\u00edt\u00e1 p\u00eds\u010ditou pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed s n\u011bkolika jurtami, kde je mo\u017en\u00e9 sehnat j\u00eddlo a pit\u00ed. Koupel osv\u011b\u017euje, v\u00fdborn\u00e9 manty dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed s\u00edly. Z hor p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 n\u00e1s nut\u00ed k p\u0159esunu do vesnice. Schov\u00e1v\u00e1me se pod st\u0159echou m\u00edstn\u00ed \u201esokolovny\u201c. Po chv\u00edli se zde sch\u00e1zej\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed kluci a uvnit\u0159 budovy za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 turnaj ve stoln\u00edm tenise, kter\u00e9ho se pochopiteln\u011b jako zahrani\u010dn\u00ed host\u00e9 r\u00e1di z\u00fa\u010dast\u0148ujeme. Po t\u00e9to sportovn\u00ed vlo\u017ece a pivku v m\u00edstn\u00edm magaz\u00ednku se rozhodujeme, \u017ee p\u016fjdeme do Bakenbayeva, region\u00e1ln\u00edho centra na ji\u017en\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Issyk-Kul, kter\u00e9 je vzd\u00e1leno asi 7 km. Ani\u017e bychom stopovali, zastavuje n\u00e1m mil\u00fd Kyrgyz, pr\u016fvodce m\u00edstn\u00ed cestovky CBT. Odv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed n\u00e1s do m\u011bsta a doporu\u010duje n\u00e1m hotel Pachat. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed se sprchou v\u00fdborn\u00e9 a levn\u00e9 (200 Som\u016f\/osobu\/noc). Prohl\u00eddka typicky sov\u011btsky neuspo\u0159\u00e1dan\u00e9ho m\u011bsta, ve\u010de\u0159e v m\u00edstn\u00edm bistru, v\u00fdborn\u00e9 \u010derstv\u00e9 pyro\u017eky a zdej\u0161\u00ed NA\u0160A PIVO. Ve\u010der na balk\u00f3n\u011b p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edme u piva nad pl\u00e1ny dal\u0161\u00edch dn\u016f.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_593\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-593\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/101.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-593\" alt=\"10\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/101-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/101-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/101.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-593\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ji\u017en\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed jezera Issyk Kul.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n31. 7. 2010 – Sobota<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no prohl\u00eddka m\u00edstn\u00edho bazaru, n\u00e1kup \u010depic, v 10:30 h odjezd mar\u0161rutkou do Balikchi (200 Som\u016f\/osobu), kde jsme v poledne. P\u0159esed\u00e1me na dal\u0161\u00ed mar\u0161rutku do Cholpon-Aty (150 Som\u016f\/osobu). Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed zde nab\u00edz\u00ed spousta lid\u00ed, my m\u00e1me p\u011bkn\u00fd dvoul\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd kvart\u00fdr kousek od stanice mar\u0161rutek za 200 Som\u016f\/osobu\/noc. Prohl\u00eddka m\u011bsta n\u00e1s velice p\u0159ekvapuje, od roku 2008, kdy jsme zde byli poprv\u00e9, se Cholpon-Ata hodn\u011b rozrostla. Po\u010das\u00ed chladn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, ani se nekoupeme, ve\u010de\u0159\u00edme ve zn\u00e1m\u00e9 hosp\u011b u hlavn\u00ed silnice. Odpoledne velk\u00e1 de\u0161\u0165ov\u00e1 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka s bou\u0159kou. V podve\u010der se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na m\u00edstn\u00ed fotbalov\u00e9 h\u0159i\u0161t\u011b, kde se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 fin\u00e1lov\u00fd z\u00e1pas poh\u00e1ru mezi Bosteri a \u010con Orjuktu. Skv\u011bl\u00e1 pod\u00edvan\u00e1, nakonec na penalty vyhr\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010con-Orjuktu. Jeden m\u00edstn\u00ed fanou\u0161ek n\u00e1m p\u0159ibli\u017euje m\u00edstn\u00ed slo\u017eitou politickou situaci. Ve\u010der diskot\u00e9ka u na\u0161eho kvart\u00fdru, pivko a uzen\u00e1 ryba.<\/p>\n1. 8. 2010 \u2013 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nDopoledne zji\u0161\u0165ujeme v muzeu v Cholpon-At\u011b, kde najdeme nad m\u011bstem petroglyfy, kam se chyst\u00e1me z\u00edtra. Odpoledne nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme zdej\u0161\u00ed skanzen zam\u011b\u0159en\u00fd na p\u0159ehled v\u0161ech hlavn\u00edch sv\u011btov\u00fdch n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed a kyrgyzsk\u00e9 kultury. Po v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed bou\u0159ce se voda v jeze\u0159e ochladila na 20\u00b0C, na pl\u00e1\u017ei focen\u00ed s hadem. Ve\u010der ve znamen\u00ed vodky s d\u017eusem \u2013 par\u00e1da \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n2. 8. 2010 \u2013 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na v\u00fdlet k petroglyf\u016fm. U s\u00eddla m\u00edstn\u00ed policie ve v\u00fdchodn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta odbo\u010duje silnice vzh\u016fru na sever. Po cca 3 km se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na okraj m\u011bsta a p\u0159ed sebou vid\u00edme vyprahlou louku posetou kameny (30 cm a\u017e 3 m v pr\u016fm\u011bru), na kter\u00fdch jsou v\u00edce \u010di m\u00e9n\u011b patrn\u00e9 vytesan\u00e9 symboly (kozy, k\u0159\u00ed\u017ee, kola atd.) poch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed z 8. \u2013 5. st. p\u0159ed n. l. Maj\u00ed je na sv\u011bdom\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed pastevci, kte\u0159\u00ed si t\u00edmto zp\u016fsobem kr\u00e1tili dlouhou chv\u00edli p\u0159i pasen\u00ed sv\u00e9ho dobytka. Vstup k petroglyf\u016fm 50 Som\u016f\/osobu.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_594\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-594\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/111.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-594\" alt=\"11\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/111-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/111-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/111.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-594\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Petroglyfy nad Cholpon Atou, asi 8. st. p\u0159ed n. l.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPo prohl\u00eddce petroglyf\u016f pokra\u010dujeme vzh\u016fru do hor pod\u00e9l \u0159eky \u010colpon-Ata, pozd\u011bji pod\u00e9l jej\u00edho lev\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku Ka\u0161ka-suu. Dost\u00e1v\u00e1me se na bezejmenn\u00fd vrchol 750 m nad \u010colpon-Atou (15:00h, 2375m). Par\u00e1dn\u00ed v\u00fdhled na J na jezero a S na hlavn\u00ed h\u0159eben Kjungey Alatau. Dol\u016f sch\u00e1z\u00edme vedlej\u0161\u00ed dolinou vyschl\u00e9ho potoka a v 16:30h jsme zp\u011bt ve m\u011bst\u011b. Ve\u010dern\u00ed koup\u00e1n\u00ed na Z pl\u00e1\u017ei u hotelov\u00fdch komplex\u016f, v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00e1 to\u010den\u00e1 Baltika 7 a evropsk\u00e9 jidlo \u2013 vep\u0159ov\u00e9. Ve\u010der se dru\u017e\u00edme s dv\u011bmi mil\u00fdmi Ruskami z Uralu na pivku.<\/p>\n3. 8. 2010 \u2013 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nVst\u00e1v\u00e1me tak\u0159ka v poledne, asi t\u011bch Baltik bylo v\u00edce, ne\u017e je zdr\u00e1vo. Cel\u00fd den ospal\u00fd. U jezera vyzv\u00edd\u00e1me od mlad\u00e9 kyrgyzky poch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed z D\u017ealalab\u00e1du, jak\u00e1 je situace na jihu Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu. Potvrzuje n\u00e1m to, co jsme se dozv\u011bd\u011bli dote\u010f \u2013 z\u00e1padn\u00ed m\u00e9dia situaci nafoukli. O\u0161 je z poloviny zdevastovan\u00e9 m\u011bsto, ale v sou\u010dasn\u00e9 dob\u011b je na jihu ji\u017e klid. Ve\u010der nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme \u0161pi\u010dkovou restauraci Sambuca, kter\u00e1 by snesla nejp\u0159\u00edsn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed evropsk\u00e1 krit\u00e9ria.<\/p>\n4. 8. 2010 \u2013 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nCel\u00fd den pod mrakem, n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva l\u00e9\u010debn\u00e9ho baz\u00e9nu v l\u00e1ze\u0148sk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta (vstup 100 Som\u016f\/osobu). Pl\u00e1n na dal\u0161\u00ed dny \u2013 vrchol Boz-Ata-Ta\u0161 3177m.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_595\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-595\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/121.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-595\" alt=\"12\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/121-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/121-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/121.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-595\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">N\u00e1\u0161 stan v sedle Boz Ata Ta\u0161, 3050 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n5. 8. 2010 \u2013 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no (9:00h) jedeme tax\u00edkem do vedlej\u0161\u00ed vesnice Progres a kousek nad vesnici do v\u00fd\u0161ky 1700m. Po\u010das\u00ed polojasn\u00e9. Odtud putujeme p\u011b\u0161ky pod\u00e9l \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Baktuu-Dolon-Ata po cest\u011b mezi pastvinami. N\u00e1\u0161 c\u00edl vid\u00edme od za\u010d\u00e1tku dne\u0161n\u00edho treku p\u0159ed sebou, vrchol Boz-Ata-Ta\u0161. Na \u00fapat\u00ed dor\u00e1\u017e\u00edme po 2,5 hodin\u00e1ch pochodu, u potoka se posil\u0148ujeme pyro\u017ekou a dopl\u0148ujeme v\u0161echny t\u0159i butylky vodou (2100m), proto\u017ee a\u017e do z\u00edt\u0159ka budeme na sucho. Stoup\u00e1me ost\u0159e vzh\u016fru po m\u00e1lo z\u0159eteln\u00e9m h\u0159eb\u00ednku na SV. Kr\u00e1vy jsou st\u00e1l\u00fdm spole\u010dn\u00edkem. Obloha se zatahuje. Po necel\u00fdch 2 hodin\u00e1ch (14:00h) se n\u00e1m ukazuje Z p\u0159edvrchol, kter\u00fd zdob\u00ed velmi zaj\u00edmav\u011b zv\u011btral\u00e9 skaln\u00ed \u00fatvary a\u017e mysteri\u00f3zn\u00edho ducha. Na p\u0159edvrcholu jsme za chv\u00edli a v 14:30 h ji\u017e stav\u00edme stan v 3050m v sedle mezi hlavn\u00edm vrcholem a Z p\u0159edvrcholem Boz-Ata-Ta\u0161. Hrajeme karty, pozorujeme ob\u010das se ukazuj\u00edc\u00ed vrcholy hlavn\u00edho h\u0159ebene Kjungey Alatau (i Bil\u00fd klobouk se n\u00e1m na chv\u00edli uk\u00e1\u017ee) na severu a jezero v oparu s letovisky Cholpon-Ata a Bosteri na jihu. Zata\u017een\u00e1 obloha, bezv\u011bt\u0159\u00ed a teplota 28\u00b0C zna\u010d\u00ed brzk\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161t, kter\u00fd se dostavuje s odch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edm dnem a trv\u00e1 a\u017e do r\u00e1na. Rusk\u00e9 kolo v Bosteri v noci \u00fa\u017easn\u011b koloruje.<\/p>\n6. 8. 2010 \u2013 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no (8:30 h) poprch\u00e1v\u00e1, v\u00fdhledy mizern\u00e9, bal\u00edme v\u011bci a sch\u00e1z\u00edme dol\u016f p\u0159es kamenit\u00fd hlavn\u00ed vrchol Boz-Ata-Ta\u0161 (3177m) JV h\u0159ebenem k \u0159ece Orto-Dolan-Ata. Nam\u00ed\u0159eno m\u00e1me dolinou do Bosteri (1600m), kde jsme ji\u017e p\u0159ed v\u00edce ne\u017e t\u00fddnem u\u017e\u00edvali dar\u016f kyrgyzsk\u00e9 kultury. Cesta se t\u00e1hne, nav\u00edc nevede p\u0159\u00edmo ale mot\u00e1 se po pol\u00edch sem a tam. Do Bosteri se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me v poledne. Na\u0161e kroky vedou na pl\u00e1\u017e do gastinice U Lesnika na zaslou\u017een\u00fd v\u00fdborn\u00fd \u0161a\u0161lik a pivo.<\/p>\n7. 8. 2010 \u2013 Sobota<\/strong> \nObjevujeme uli\u010dky vedouc\u00ed na z\u00e1padn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st pl\u00e1\u017ee kousek od na\u0161eho ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Dosud jsme chodili k jezeru na hlavn\u00ed pl\u00e1\u017e. Odpoledne a ve\u010der vyklep\u00e1v\u00e1m Fandu ve stoln\u00edm tenise. U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si posledn\u00ed ve\u010der v Cholpon At\u011b.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_596\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-596\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/131.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-596\" alt=\"13\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/131-199x300.jpg\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/131-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/131.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-596\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cholpon Ata. Tady jsme d\u011blali velk\u00e9 n\u00e1kupy \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n8. 8. 2010 \u2013 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nDopoledne se lou\u010d\u00edme s Cholpon-Atou, posledn\u00ed koup\u00e1n\u00ed v jeze\u0159e. Kolem 14:00h vyrovn\u00e1v\u00e1me ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed a odch\u00e1z\u00edme sehnat mar\u0161rutku do Bi\u0161keku (300 Som\u016f\/osobu). V p\u016fl t\u0159et\u00ed ji\u017e odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme a cesta je to opravdu z\u00e1bavn\u00e1. \u0158idi\u010d z\u0159ejm\u011b lad\u00ed formu na Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e-Dakar, boj\u00ed se i Fanda (co\u017e u\u017e je na pov\u00e1\u017eenou), naprosto bez kec\u016f m\u00e1m strach o \u017eivot p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm p\u0159i p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed do zat\u00e1\u010dek. Nav\u00edc prvn\u00ed polovinu cesty vedle m\u011b sed\u00ed zcela opil\u00fd Rus, kter\u00e9mu je zjevn\u011b \u0161patn\u011b od \u017ealudku. Druhou polovinu cesty ho jako partnera vedle sebe vyfasoval Fanda a kousek p\u0159ed Bi\u0161kekem se tento nesympatick\u00fd Rus\u00e1k vyblil t\u011bsn\u011b Fandovi nohy. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed do na\u0161eho c\u00edle to je ji\u017e kousek a po 4,5 hodin\u00e1ch cesty opravdu velice r\u00e1d opou\u0161t\u00edme palubu mar\u0161rutky na bi\u0161keksk\u00e9m avtovakzalu.<\/p>\nOkol\u00ed zn\u00e1me z roku 2008, zde nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho nen\u00ed, je lehce po 18. hodin\u011b, letadlo n\u00e1m odl\u00e9t\u00e1 a\u017e r\u00e1no, tak se rozhodujeme, \u017ee letos vyzkou\u0161\u00edme centrum Bi\u0161keku. V hlav\u00e1ch m\u00e1me dle zku\u0161enosti z 2008 zak\u00f3dov\u00e1no, \u017ee Bi\u0161kek je o\u0161kliv\u00e9 m\u011bsto, ale po 10-ti minutov\u00e9 j\u00edzd\u011b autobusem se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do centra a tento n\u00e1\u0161 n\u00e1zor velice r\u00e1di m\u011bn\u00edme. \u0160irok\u00e9 \u010dist\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry, zelen\u00e9 upraven\u00e9 parky, vodotrysky, hosp\u016fdky, kav\u00e1rny, sympatick\u00e9 tv\u00e1\u0159e \u2013 obrovsk\u00e9 mil\u00e9 p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed. Ve\u010de\u0159\u00edme na st\u0159e\u0161e obchodn\u00edho centra Rosija, odkud je skv\u011bl\u00fd v\u00fdhled na m\u011bsto. Ve\u010der vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me pivko (maj\u00ed i Bernarda a Budvar!) v parku a seznamujeme se s m\u00edstn\u00edm lez\u010d\u00edkem \u017d\u00e9\u0148ou a jeho \u017eenou (krom jin\u00e9ho znaj\u00ed Dinaru z Aksai Travel, se kterou jsem dohadoval zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed p\u00e1r slu\u017eeb pro na\u0161i v\u00fdpravu). Vypravuje n\u00e1m o Chan Tengri, Leninovi a dal\u0161\u00edch jeho v\u00fdletech a nakonec n\u00e1m zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed dopravu do Manasu, kam se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u0159ed p\u016flnoc\u00ed, co\u017e n\u00e1m u\u0161et\u0159ilo nudn\u00e9 hodiny str\u00e1ven\u00e9 na leti\u0161ti.<\/p>\nLetos je odbaven\u00ed bez probl\u00e9m\u016f (p\u0159ed dv\u011bma lety jsme museli zaplatit gum\u00e1\u017eku 550$, abychom se dostali do letadla) a odl\u00e9t\u00e1me z Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu. P\u0159es Moskvu let\u00edme do Prahy a n\u00e1\u0161 v\u00fdlet je u konce.<\/p>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2010-Tian%20Shan\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-ruduv-denik\" target=\"_blank\">Rud\u016fv den\u00edk<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-zakladni-informace\/\">Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/propagace\/\">Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2>Propagace t\u00e9to v\u00fdpravy:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v \u010dasopise Vertigo jaro\/l\u00e9to 2011 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2010_vertigo1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 1<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2010_vertigo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 2<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek na serveru Pohora\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pohora.cz\/tian-san\/5723-vystup-na-vychodni-vrchol-kantbastau-4500-m\/\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v P\u011bn\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m Zpravodaji 12\/2011 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2010_pencinskyzpravodaj.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v \u010dasopise Lid\u00e9 a Hory 4\/2011\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2010_lideahory.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u010clenov\u00e9: Zdenda Bouda, Fanda Ulrich, Ruda \u010cern\u00fd, Vladim\u00edr Soj\u00e1k, Jajka \u0160karoupkov\u00e1, Eva Kas\u00edkov\u00e1 FOTOGALERIE\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Rud\u016fv den\u00edk\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Propagace 17. 7. 2010 Sobota Odlet z Prahy ve 13:00h, bag\u00e1\u017e vy\u0161la na gram p\u0159esn\u011b, v Moskv\u011b jsme v 17:30h m\u00edstn\u00edho \u010dasu. Mal\u00fd Budvar za 1,5\u20ac usnad\u0148uje \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed na let do Bi\u0161keku. Odl\u00e9t\u00e1me s hodinov\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm chv\u00edli … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading HUMI OUTDOOR – Tian Shan – Kyrgyzst\u00e1n – Kantbastau 2010<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/tian-shan-2010-kyrgyzstan-chong-ak-suu-kantbastau\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,11],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-3V","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/243"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=243"}],"version-history":[{"count":26,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/243\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1107,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/243\/revisions\/1107"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=243"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=243"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=243"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}