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{"id":233,"date":"2013-10-18T11:46:53","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T11:46:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=233"},"modified":"2017-01-31T08:01:41","modified_gmt":"2017-01-31T08:01:41","slug":"pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/","title":{"rendered":"HUMI OUTDOOR – Pam\u00edr – T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1n – Sary\u0161itcharv 2009"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"title_pamir_2009\"$ <\/p>\n

\u010clenov\u00e9: Zdenda Bouda, Fanda Ulrich, Ruda \u010cern\u00fd, Vladim\u00edr Soj\u00e1k, L\u00e1\u010fa Szil\u00e1gyi, M\u00e1ra Erban<\/em><\/p>\n

FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Rud\u016fv den\u00edk<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/iframe> \nPrvn\u00ed my\u0161lenky o leto\u0161n\u00edm letn\u00edm v\u00fdletu ve m\u011b zr\u00e1ly u\u017e v l\u00e9t\u011b 2008 na Tian-Shanu. Cht\u011bl jsem n\u011bco velk\u00e9ho a hlavn\u011b panensk\u00e9ho. Ji\u017e d\u0159\u00edve jsem vid\u011bl okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed fotku Piku Karla Marxe a Bed\u0159icha Engelse v JZ Pam\u00edru, tak pro\u010d nezkusit toto? Po n\u00e1vratu z Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu jsem se za\u010dal p\u00eddit po informac\u00edch o t\u00e9to oblasti a zjistil jsem, \u017ee pr\u00e1v\u011b v l\u00e9t\u011b 2008 na oba tyto vrcholy byli podniknuty prvn\u00ed \u010desk\u00e9 v\u00fdstupy. T\u00edm pro m\u011b oblast ztratila panenskost a za\u010dal jsem hledat alternativu.<\/span><\/p>\nZ\u016fstal jsem v JZ Pam\u00edru a na\u0161el jsem dolinu Sary-\u0160itcharv (\u0421\u0430\u0440\u044b\u0448\u0438\u0442\u0445\u0430\u0440\u0432), kter\u00e9 v\u00e9vod\u00ed Pik Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy (5883m) (\u041f\u0438\u043a \u041c\u043e\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 \u043e\u043b\u0438\u043c\u043f\u0438\u0430\u0434\u044b), Mar\u0161\u00e1l Gre\u010dko (6105m), Bajkonur (6038m) a Pik Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil (6236m). Byla by to prvn\u00ed \u010desk\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva doliny. Na rusk\u00e9m netu jsem na\u0161el cestopis popisuj\u00edc\u00ed pr\u016fstup doliny z roku 2003 s v\u00fdstupem na Pik Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil. Dle fotek a vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed to vypad\u00e1 \u00fa\u017easn\u011b. Kontaktoval jsem moskevsk\u00e9ho horolezce Vladim\u00edra Shaetayeva, kter\u00fd v 70. letech dolinu objevoval horolezecky a ten mi dodal velmi cenn\u00e9 dobov\u00e9 fotografie a mapky. K na\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1kladn\u00ed \u010dtve\u0159ici \u2013 Zdenda, F\u00e1na, Vladim\u00edr a Ruda se p\u0159idal je\u0161t\u011b M\u00e1ra s L\u00e1\u010fou a mohli jsme se p\u0159ipravovat.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_602\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-602\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1_dusanbe_bazar.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-602\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1_dusanbe_bazar-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"1_dusanbe_bazar\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1_dusanbe_bazar-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1_dusanbe_bazar.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-602\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bazar v Du\u0161anbe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDo T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1nu je zapot\u0159eb\u00ed pro \u010cesk\u00e9ho ob\u010dana v\u00edzum, na Pamir do oblasti Horn\u00edho Badach\u0161\u00e1nu (GBAO) pak je\u0161t\u011b zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed permit. Oboj\u00ed n\u00e1m pro jistotu vy\u0159izuje kamar\u00e1dka Jajka na V\u00edde\u0148sk\u00e9 ambas\u00e1d\u011b p\u0159ed odletem. Bohu\u017eel M\u00e1ra s L\u00e1\u010fou maj\u00ed kr\u00e1tkou platnost pasu (je nutn\u00e1 minim\u00e1ln\u011b 6 m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f po skon\u010den\u00ed platnosti v\u00edza) a tak v\u00edzum a permit nedost\u00e1vaj\u00ed a vs\u00e1zej\u00ed na to, \u017ee tyto formality z\u00edskaj\u00ed v Du\u0161anbe (pr\u00fd by to m\u011blo j\u00edt).<\/p>\nNejsme \u017e\u00e1dn\u00ed extr\u00e9mn\u00ed lezci, jsme parta oby\u010dejn\u00fdch milovn\u00edk\u016f p\u0159\u00edrody, hor obzvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b a chceme si u\u017e\u00edt neopakovateln\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky bez komer\u010dn\u00edch a konzumn\u00edch zlozvyk\u016f.<\/p>\n<h3>Cesta do hor<\/strong><\/h3>\n1-3\/7\/009<\/strong> Odlet z Prahy ve 14:00h, v Istanbulu v 17:30h (m\u00edstn\u00edho \u010dasu, +1h). Na leti\u0161ti Ataturk m\u00e1me 3h \u010dasu, tak d\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u00e1r piv (\u00e1 8 \u20ac) a ve 20:40h u\u017e sed\u00edme v letadle do Du\u0161anbe. Na t\u00e1d\u017eickou p\u016fdu dosed\u00e1me v 03:30h (m\u00edstn\u00edho \u010dasu, +3h). Bag\u00e1\u017e dorazila kompletn\u00ed. P\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159ed leti\u0161t\u011bm domlouv\u00e1me dopravu do hor.<\/p>\nCel\u00fd den \u010dek\u00e1me na ud\u011blen\u00ed permitu pro vstup do GBAO pro L\u00e1\u010fu a M\u00e1ru, v\u00edza dostali bezprobl\u00e9m\u016f p\u0159\u00edmo na leti\u0161ti. Vladim\u00edr s klukama projel p\u016flku Du\u0161anbe, bohu\u017eel bezv\u00fdsledn\u011b. Mo\u017en\u00e1 pr\u00fd z\u00edtra, ale kdo v\u00ed\u2026 V pozdn\u00edm odpoledni se rozhodujeme, \u017ee my \u010dty\u0159i (Zdenda, F\u00e1na, Ruda a Vladim\u00edr) pojedeme do hor nyn\u00ed a s klukama se sejdeme na m\u00edst\u011b (bu\u010f v \u0160itcharvu nebo na m\u00edst\u011b pl\u00e1novan\u00e9ho Base campu) a\u017e budou m\u00edt permit vy\u0159\u00edzen\u00fd (co\u017e m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt z\u00edtra nebo taky nikdy). Cenu za dopravu a jednodenn\u00ed \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed \u0159idi\u010de domlouv\u00e1me na 350 Somoni\/hlavu do Khorongu, d\u00e1le do ky\u0161laku (vesnice) \u0160itcharvu se uvid\u00ed (ani jeden ze dvou na\u0161ich \u0159idi\u010d\u016f tam nikdy nebyl), m\u00e1me \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed na dobrou ma\u0161inu \u2013 asi 10 let star\u00e1 Toyota Land Cruiser.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_603\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-603\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2_pamir_highway.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-603\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2_pamir_highway-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"2_pamir_highway\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2_pamir_highway-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2_pamir_highway.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-603\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pamir Highway, cesta do hor kolem \u0159eky Pjand\u017e p\u0159ed Khoroghem.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nHlavn\u00ed cesta mezi Du\u0161anbe a Khorongem je uzav\u0159en\u00e1 kv\u016fli skupince loupe\u017eiv\u00fdch mud\u017eahed\u00edn\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se us\u00eddlili v pr\u016fsmyku na polovin\u011b trasy. Proto mus\u00edme jet oklikou na jih p\u0159es Kulab. Je to sice o 200km del\u0161\u00ed, ale za to hor\u0161\u00ed cestou. V noci p\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme p\u0159\u00edtok Pjand\u017ee p\u0159es d\u011brav\u00fd most, u kter\u00e9ho sp\u00edme asi 3h. Odtud ji\u017e cesta kop\u00edruje hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159eku Pjand\u017e, na druh\u00e9m b\u0159ehu pozorujeme afgh\u00e1nsk\u00e9 ky\u0161laky. Do Khorongu p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 16:30h, z Du\u0161anbe sem 700 km. Domlouv\u00e1me se na p\u0159\u00edplatku 200 Somoni za dopravu a\u017e do \u0160itcharvu. Silnice u\u017e je kr\u00e1sn\u00e1, asfaltov\u00e1 a cesta ut\u00edk\u00e1.<\/p>\nKone\u010dn\u011b v 19:00h doj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do \u0160itcharvu \u2013 na\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1kladny na cest\u011b do hor. V m\u00edstn\u00edm magaz\u00ednu d\u00e1v\u00e1me prvn\u00ed pivko na Pam\u00edru \u2013 Baltika 7, moc hezk\u00e1 prodava\u010dka. Ihned se n\u00e1s uj\u00edm\u00e1 m\u00edstn\u00ed u\u010ditel Alik, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m nab\u00edz\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed ve sv\u00e9m dom\u011b. Velice r\u00e1di p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1me pozv\u00e1n\u00ed. Rodina Alika se n\u00e1s velice mile uj\u00edm\u00e1 a host\u00ed n\u00e1s bohatou a v\u00fdbornou ve\u010de\u0159\u00ed (plov \u2013 n\u011bco na zp\u016fsob rizota). Po t\u0159ech dnech cestov\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1s kone\u010dn\u011b \u010dek\u00e1 vydatn\u00fd sp\u00e1nek.<\/p>\n4\/7\/009<\/strong> R\u00e1no sn\u00eddan\u011b s Alikem a jeho rodinou, ochutn\u00e1v\u00e1me m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0161ir\u010daj (slan\u00fd \u010daj s ml\u00e9kem a m\u00e1slem, do kter\u00e9ho se drob\u00ed dom\u00e1c\u00ed chl\u00e9b), ale doma si ho nikdo z n\u00e1s d\u011blat nebude. Dopoledne obhl\u00eddka n\u00e1stupu do doliny Sary-\u0160itcharv, kter\u00e1 za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 na v\u00fdchodn\u00edm konci ky\u0161laku, po\u010das\u00ed polojasn\u00e9 a v\u011btrn\u00e9, dost\u00e1v\u00e1me se do 3150m. Velmi cenn\u00fd pr\u016fzkum pro z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed t\u016fru do hor. Odpoledne relax a snaha o \u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed \u010desk\u00e9 pivn\u00ed kultury na Pam\u00edru \u2013 pro pivo do 500m vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho magaz\u00ednu jezd\u00edme autem s br\u00e1chou Alika. Tato mision\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 \u010dinnost se z \u010d\u00e1sti da\u0159\u00ed, ale d\u00e1 to je\u0161t\u011b pr\u00e1ci.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_604\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-604\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3_pjandz.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-604\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3_pjandz-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"3_pjandz\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3_pjandz-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3_pjandz.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-604\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u0158eka Pjand\u017e zde tvo\u0159\u00ed hranici mezi T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1nem a Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nem.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n5\/7\/009<\/strong> V noci v 01:00h n\u00e1s bud\u00ed Alik s t\u00edm, \u017ee \u201eVa\u0161i druzia prijechali\u201c! Kluci dorazili, \u0159idi\u010d je nat\u00e1hl a jsou bez pen\u011bz, ale jsme op\u011bt kompletn\u00ed. R\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme v 08:30h od na\u0161ich hostitel\u016f v pln\u00e9 poln\u00ed (30 kg batoh) do hor. U Alika si nech\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u00e1r v\u011bc\u00ed, kter\u00e9 nebudeme v hor\u00e1ch pot\u0159ebovat a domlouv\u00e1me se, \u017ee zhruba za 14 dn\u00ed se vr\u00e1t\u00edme. Slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed. Po 30min ch\u016fze na konci vesnice za mostkem p\u0159es \u0159eku Sary-\u0160itcharv (2750m) uh\u00fdb\u00e1me ze silnice doleva a stoup\u00e1me kamenitou str\u00e1n\u00ed vzh\u016fru (zn\u00e1me ze v\u010derej\u0161\u00edho pr\u016fzkumu), \u0159eku m\u00e1me po lev\u00e9 stran\u011b hluboko pod n\u00e1mi.<\/p>\nPo dal\u0161\u00edch 30min sch\u00e1z\u00edme z \u00fatesu p\u0159\u00edmo k \u0159ece a jdeme proti proudu p\u0159\u00edmo po b\u0159ehu. Po 15min stoj\u00ed v cest\u011b sout\u011bska, kter\u00e1 nelze proj\u00edt \u2013 stezka obch\u00e1z\u00ed toto m\u00edsto p\u0159es skaln\u00ed ostroh \u2013 strm\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed (80m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch) a pot\u00e9 op\u011bt kles\u00e1 k \u0159ece. Dal\u0161\u00edch 20min pod\u00e9l \u0159eky, pot\u00e9 se stezka za\u0159ez\u00e1v\u00e1 do lev\u00e9ho su\u0165ov\u00e9ho b\u0159ehu a op\u011bt stoup\u00e1 (100m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch). P\u0159ed 13h jsme u prvn\u00edho mostku (3000m) p\u0159es \u0159eku (kolem je osamocen\u00fd les\u00edk), po kter\u00e9m se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na prav\u00fd b\u0159eh. Zde odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1me. Stezka odtud pokra\u010duje m\u00edrn\u011b stoupaj\u00edc\u00edm traverzem asi 100m nad \u0159ekou. Po hodin\u011b se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me op\u011bt p\u0159\u00edmo ke korytu \u0159eky a st\u00e1le po prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1le a\u017e k soutoku (3300m) Sary- a Rosto-\u0160itcharv (prav\u00fd p\u0159\u00edtok), p\u0159es kter\u00fd vede druh\u00fd mostek. Hned za n\u00edm je travnat\u00fd palou\u010dek, kde si stav\u00edme stany. Mezi 16:00h a 18:00h se tu objevuje kompletn\u00ed na\u0161e parta. Po dne\u0161n\u00ed startovn\u00ed t\u016f\u0159e s t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdmi b\u00e1gly toho m\u00e1me v\u0161ichni pln\u00e9 zuby, obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 L\u00e1\u010fa, kter\u00fd zjevn\u011b dopl\u00e1c\u00ed na vy\u010derpanost z cesty z Du\u0161anbe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_607\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-607\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5_druhy_tabor.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-607\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5_druhy_tabor-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"5_druhy_tabor\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5_druhy_tabor-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5_druhy_tabor.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-607\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Druh\u00fd t\u00e1bor ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3600 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n6\/7\/009<\/strong> Dopoledne relax, hygiena cel\u00e9ho t\u011bla a nab\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed sil. Dnes se chceme kr\u00e1tkou 2h t\u016frou posunout k druh\u00e9mu prav\u00e9mu p\u0159\u00edtoku (3600m). Polojasno. L\u00e1\u010fa je st\u00e1le vy\u010derp\u00e1n. Kluk\u016fm doporu\u010duji, aby zde den z\u016fstali a odpo\u010dinuli si, dorazit za n\u00e1mi mohou pozd\u011bji, cesta a\u017e do Base campu (BC) je jasn\u00e1. Nakonec vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme po poledni v\u0161ichni. Cesta od soutoku vede vzh\u016fru na plato, kde stoj\u00ed rozvaliny pasteveck\u00fdch obydl\u00ed. traverz prav\u00e9ho b\u0159ehu \u0159eky, po 1h stezka sb\u00edh\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo k \u0159ece. Zde je most. Chybn\u011b p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00edme na lev\u00fd b\u0159eh, kde nen\u00ed stezka, a zbyte\u010dn\u011b se dal\u0161\u00ed 1h plaho\u010d\u00edme po su\u0165ov\u00e9m svahu. Lep\u0161\u00ed cesta je po prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu, kde vede pasteveck\u00e1 p\u011b\u0161ina. V 16:00h dor\u00e1\u017e\u00edme k soutoku s druh\u00fdm prav\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtokem. Je zde m\u00edsto akor\u00e1t pro na\u0161e t\u0159i stany p\u0159\u00edmo u \u0159eky.<\/p>\n7\/7009<\/strong> R\u00e1no bal\u00edme v\u011bci a v 09:30h u\u017e stoup\u00e1me str\u00e1n\u00ed lev\u00e9ho b\u0159ehu vzh\u016fru, abychom obe\u0161li \u00fazkou sout\u011bsku, kterou nen\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9 proj\u00edt. Slunce sv\u00edt\u00ed. Stezka se tu m\u00edsty ztr\u00e1c\u00ed, nestabiln\u00ed su\u0165. Za sout\u011bskou (1,5h) sestupujeme k \u0159ece a odtud ji\u017e po stabiln\u00ed suti p\u0159\u00edmo po lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu. Poprv\u00e9 se n\u00e1m ukazuj\u00ed J svahy Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy (5883m) a Mar\u0161\u00e1la Gre\u010dka (6105m) \u2013 fam\u00f3zn\u00ed! Z tohoto pohledu se jev\u00ed jako prvn\u00ed re\u00e1ln\u00e1 mo\u017enost k v\u00fdstupu pr\u00e1v\u011b J st\u011bna Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy \u2013 su\u0165oviskem zhruba do v\u00fd\u0161ky 5000m a pak se zd\u00e1 kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 m\u00edsto \u2013 ledovcov\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih (cca 300-400m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch) zakon\u010den\u00fd zleva ze dvou t\u0159etin \u0161\u00ed\u0159e velkou p\u0159ev\u011bj\u00ed (t\u00e9 bychom se museli vyhnout po prav\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti), t\u011b\u017eko odhadovat sklon. Po p\u0159ekon\u00e1n\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161vihu se odtud jev\u00ed ji\u017e snadn\u00fd postup po zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e9m h\u0159ebeni.<\/p>\nL\u00e1\u010fa s M\u00e1rou jdou sv\u00fdm tempem, jsme dohodnuti, \u017ee t\u00e1bor postav\u00edme p\u0159ed prvn\u00edm prav\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtokem, tak\u017ee mohou vyu\u017e\u00edt na t\u016fru cel\u00fd den. Ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4000m se \u0159e\u010di\u0161t\u011b roz\u0161i\u0159uje a lev\u00fd b\u0159eh zdob\u00ed ide\u00e1ln\u00ed palou\u010dek pro stan \u2013 n\u00e1\u0161 t\u0159et\u00ed t\u00e1bor na cest\u011b do BC. Ve zbytku dne hygiena t\u011bla, ve\u010de\u0159e, focen\u00ed a odpo\u010dinek. Slunce \u00famorn\u011b pra\u017e\u00ed. Kluci do ve\u010dera nep\u0159i\u0161li, po\u010d\u00edt\u00e1me, \u017ee zakempovali n\u00ed\u017ee a jdou si sv\u00fdm tempem, dle dohody pl\u00e1n znaj\u00ed \u2013 BC p\u0159ed ledovcem ve v\u00fd\u0161ce cca 4300m, tak\u017ee nen\u00ed probl\u00e9m a sejdeme se tam.<\/p>\n<h3>Base camp<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_608\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-608\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6_vladimir.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-608\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6_vladimir-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"6_vladimir\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6_vladimir-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6_vladimir.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-608\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vladim\u00edr stoup\u00e1 pod\u00e9l \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Sary\u0161itcharv.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n8\/7\/009<\/strong> Vst\u00e1v\u00e1me s prvn\u00edmi slune\u010dn\u00edmi paprsky v 08:00h, proto\u017ee teplota v na\u0161em stanu okam\u017eit\u011b prudce stoup\u00e1. Startujeme v 09:30h, stezka v t\u011bchto m\u00edstech u\u017e nen\u00ed znateln\u00e1 a jdeme p\u0159\u00edmo pod\u00e9l \u0159eky vzh\u016fru. Prvn\u00ed 2h pouze po lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu, potom p\u0159eskakujeme \u0159\u00ed\u010dku dle libosti podle toho, na kter\u00e9m b\u0159ehu se n\u00e1m zd\u00e1 lep\u0161\u00ed ter\u00e9n. Cel\u00e1 dne\u0161n\u00ed cesta se nevzdaluje od koryta, \u0161lapeme tu po stabiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, tu po nestabiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed suti. Kolem 12h se nad n\u00e1mi otev\u00edr\u00e1 pohled na monstr\u00f3zn\u00ed Pik Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil! Jeho ji\u017en\u00ed st\u011bny zakon\u010den\u00e9 p\u0159ev\u011bji a\u017e na vrcholov\u00e9m platu bud\u00ed obrovsk\u00fd respekt. Po 3h cesty bychom m\u011bli b\u00fdt v m\u00edst\u011b prvn\u00edho prav\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku \u0159eky Sary-\u0160itcharv vyt\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00edho z ji\u017en\u00ed st\u011bny Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy, ale vid\u00edme tu jen vyschl\u00fd \u017elab. D\u00e1le (4250m) se dolina otev\u00edr\u00e1 a stoup\u00e1n\u00ed je ji\u017e m\u00edrn\u00e9. Po dal\u0161\u00ed hodin\u011b (13:30h) nal\u00e9z\u00e1me vhodn\u00e9 m\u00edsto na stanov\u00e1n\u00ed \u2013 nejd\u0159\u00edve na lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu (travnat\u00fd palou\u010dek) a po dal\u0161\u00edch 10min na prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu (kam\u00edn\u010d\u00ed), kde stav\u00edme n\u00e1\u0161 BC (4350m). P\u0159\u00edmo nad n\u00e1mi se ty\u010d\u00ed JV st\u011bny Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy. Odpoledne va\u0159\u00edme j\u00eddlo, odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1me. Kolem 16h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 sn\u011bhov\u00e1 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka, jinak cel\u00fd den slune\u010dn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed.<\/p>\n9\/7\/009<\/strong> Vst\u00e1v\u00e1me op\u011bt do slun\u00ed\u010dka, ale potok je zamrzl\u00fd a stan pokryt\u00fd jinovatkou (v noci teplota -10\u00b0C). Dne\u0161n\u00ed pl\u00e1n je vystoupat co nejv\u00fd\u0161 na ledovec a zjistit v\u00fdstupov\u00e9 mo\u017enosti a z\u00e1rove\u0148 se aklimatizovat na vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku. Vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme nalehko v 09:45h, kolem \u0159\u00ed\u010dky stoup\u00e1me sut\u00ed k hranici sn\u011bhu (4500m).<\/p>\nOtv\u00edr\u00e1 se pohled na JV st\u011bnu Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy, kter\u00fd nazna\u010duje, \u017ee tudy to nep\u016fjde \u2013 v prvn\u00ed t\u0159etin\u011b st\u011bny je po cel\u00e9 \u0161\u00ed\u0159ce kolm\u00fd skaln\u00ed prah (asi 10-20m vysok\u00fd), kter\u00fd p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed v ledovou st\u011bnu.<\/p>\nUprost\u0159ed \u00fadol\u00ed tvo\u0159\u00ed zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e1 mor\u00e9na h\u0159bet, po kter\u00e9m stoup\u00e1me pozvolna a\u017e na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bod (4870m) \u2013 na polovin\u011b spojnice vrchol\u016f Olympi\u00e1dy a Piku Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil. Tento bezejmenn\u00fd vrchol naz\u00fdv\u00e1me Pik Sary-\u0160itcharv. Jsou odtud n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st doliny \u2013 podkovu vrchol\u016f za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed V a S st\u011bnou Piku Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy a pokra\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed JV st\u011bnou Piku Mar\u0161\u00e1la Gre\u010dka, perevalem Uzbeck\u00fdch turist\u016f, Pikem Bajkonur, perevalem Medyr a kon\u010d\u00edc\u00ed Z st\u011bnami Piku Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil. Fam\u00f3zn\u00ed pod\u00edvan\u00e1.<\/p>\nPotvrzuj\u00ed se slova domorodc\u016f, \u017ee letos ledovec dr\u017e\u00ed hodn\u011b sn\u011bhu (a t\u00edm te\u010de na tuto dobu v \u0159ece m\u00e9n\u011b vody). Cesta pod sedlo Medyr k n\u00e1stupu do SZ st\u011bny Piku Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil je v t\u011bchto podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch velice n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 \u2013 bo\u0159\u00edc\u00ed se sn\u00edh a zna\u010dn\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed trhlin. Ji\u017en\u00ed st\u011bna Piku Mar\u0161\u00e1la Gre\u010dka m\u00e1 podobn\u00fd lezeck\u00fd probl\u00e9m jako JV st\u011bna Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy \u2013 v prvn\u00ed t\u0159etin\u011b t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd kolm\u00fd skaln\u00ed prah a S st\u011bnu Olympi\u00e1dy zn\u00e1me ji\u017e z fotek \u2013 zdaleka nejextr\u00e9mn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdstup oblasti. Po tomto pr\u016fzkumu ji\u017e v\u00edme, \u017ee v na\u0161ich sil\u00e1ch je pokus o v\u00fdstup SV st\u011bnou Piku Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil a J st\u011bnou Olympi\u00e1dy.<\/p>\nSlunce celou dobu p\u00e1l\u00ed, ale Hind\u00faku\u0161 na jihu je zahalen v mrac\u00edch. Jen obrysy nazna\u010duj\u00ed jeho fam\u00f3zn\u00ed rozm\u011bry. V BC jsme za hodinu (15:00h). Kluci st\u00e1le nedorazili, z\u0159ejm\u011b vol\u00ed sv\u016fj program. Slunce p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u00edtit na na\u0161e stany kolem 16:30h a ihned se prudce ochlazuje k 0\u00b0C.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_612\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-612\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7_pmo.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-612\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7_pmo-300x179.jpg\" alt=\"7_pmo\" width=\"300\" height=\"179\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7_pmo-300x179.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7_pmo.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-612\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pik Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy (5883 m) od jihu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n10\/7\/009<\/strong> Po p\u011bti dnech z\u00e1p\u0159ahu u\u017e na sob\u011b v\u0161ichni c\u00edt\u00edme \u00fanavu a proto dne\u0161n\u00ed den vol\u00edme odpo\u010dinek a pr\u016fzkum J st\u011bny Olympi\u00e1dy. J\u00e1 s F\u00e1nou vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme v 11:00h po proudu \u0159eky a po 15min se od koryta odpout\u00e1v\u00e1me a stoup\u00e1me lev\u00fdm su\u0165ov\u00fdm svahem do v\u00fd\u0161ky 4450m, abychom vid\u011bli J st\u011bnu Olympi\u00e1dy.<\/p>\nPotvrzuj\u00ed se mi domn\u011bnky, \u017ee tudy \u2013 J st\u011bnou \u2013 by to mohlo j\u00edt. Su\u0165oviskem pod\u00e9l prvn\u00edho prav\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku to bude maka\u010dka a otrava, ale s t\u00edm se po\u010d\u00edt\u00e1. Zde na hranici sn\u011bhu (cca 5000m) to vypad\u00e1 na v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fd t\u00e1bor C1. Kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fd sn\u011bhovo-ledov\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih (300-400m) z tohoto pohledu vypad\u00e1 snesiteln\u011b, ot\u00e1zkou z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 jak\u00e1 je p\u0159ev\u011bj na konci v\u00fd\u0161vihu. To bude mo\u017en\u00e9 vid\u011bt a\u017e p\u0159\u00edmo pod v\u00fd\u0161vihem. Dal\u0161\u00ed postup po h\u0159ebeni by ji\u017e nem\u011bl \u010dinit probl\u00e9my.<\/p>\nDal\u0161\u00ed varianta \u2013 v\u00fdstup dolinou druh\u00e9ho prav\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku a Z st\u011bnou na vrchol \u2013 se alespo\u0148 dle mapy jev\u00ed jako nejsnadn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed cesta na Olympi\u00e1du, ale pro n\u00e1s by byla v sou\u010dasn\u00e9 situaci n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 na p\u0159esun k n\u00e1stupu. Museli bychom sej\u00edt zp\u00e1tky k soutoku s druh\u00fdm prav\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtokem a j\u00edm vystoupat, co\u017e by zabralo k n\u00e1stupu minim\u00e1ln\u011b 2 dny. V BC se dohadujeme, \u017ee z\u00edtra zkus\u00edme v\u00fdstupovou trasu J st\u011bnou a v dal\u0161\u00edch dnech bude mo\u017enost d\u00e1t pokus na Pik Ozbrojen\u00fdch sil.<\/p>\nV pozdn\u00edm odpoledni nas\u00e1v\u00e1m neopakovatelnou atmosf\u00e9ru pam\u00edrsk\u00fdch velehor na \u0161utru nad na\u0161\u00edm t\u00e1borem. Sed\u00edm si tu s\u00e1m, t\u00e1bor maje na dlani, \u0159eka si hu\u010d\u00ed, Ozbrojen\u00e9 s\u00edly a Olympi\u00e1da nade mnou m\u011b fascinuj\u00ed svou grandi\u00f3znost\u00ed, slunce m\u011b ob\u010das zah\u0159eje, ob\u010das m\u011b ochlad\u00ed poletuj\u00edc\u00ed sn\u00edh\u2026 a j\u00e1 na to v\u0161echno \u010dum\u00edm jako tele na nov\u00fd vrata s otev\u0159enou hubou\u2026 Uprost\u0159ed Pam\u00edru, daleko od civilizace si tu p\u0159ipad\u00e1m jak nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed prdek na zem\u011bkouli\u2026a je mi tak fajn. Kv\u016fli t\u011bmto pocit\u016fm jezd\u00edm r\u00e1d do hor. Dne\u0161n\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00fd den m\u011b dobil energi\u00ed a u\u017e se moc t\u011b\u0161\u00edm na z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed pokus o v\u00fdstup na Olympi\u00e1du. Ve\u010der se kone\u010dn\u011b pln\u011b otev\u00edr\u00e1 pohled na Karakoram a Hind\u00faku\u0161 (Gasherbrumy). Z toho m\u00e1me v\u0161ichni pln\u00fd trencle.<\/p>\n<h3>Kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 rozhodnut\u00ed a Pik Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_613\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-613\" style=\"width: 199px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8_vystup.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-613\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8_vystup-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"8_vystup\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8_vystup-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/8_vystup.jpg 531w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-613\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vladim\u00edr vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed z BC do C1 p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu na Pik Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n11\/7\/009<\/strong> P\u0159ed 06:00h n\u00e1s bud\u00ed L\u00e1\u010fa, kter\u00e9ho vid\u00edme po t\u0159ech dnech! P\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed velmi \u0161patnou zpr\u00e1vu \u2013 s M\u00e1rou je to zl\u00e9 \u2013 nen\u00ed schopen pohybu, le\u017e\u00ed ve stanu ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3900m asi 1,5h cesty pod n\u00e1mi, nej\u00ed a komunikuje velmi omezen\u011b. Bleskov\u00e1 sch\u016fze rozhoduje takto: Ruda, F\u00e1na a L\u00e1\u010fa jdou k nemocn\u00e9mu zjistit situaci a budou se sna\u017eit ho nadopovat l\u00e9ky a dostat ho z toho. Zdenda s Vladim\u00edrem zkus\u00ed dle p\u016fvodn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu v\u00fdstup na Olympi\u00e1du. Dnes bychom m\u011bli vybudovat C1 v 5000m, z\u00edtra pokus o vrchol a sestup do BC p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b do C1 a dal\u0161\u00ed den do BC. To znamen\u00e1, \u017ee z\u00edtra ve\u010der \u010di poz\u00edt\u0159\u00ed se tady v BC sejdeme. Snad se z toho M\u00e1ra b\u011bhem t\u00e9to doby dostane. Kluci bal\u00ed pot\u0159ebn\u00e9 v\u011bci a sch\u00e1zej\u00ed dol\u016f, zat\u00edmco j\u00e1 s Vladim\u00edrem je\u0161t\u011b uleh\u00e1me do spac\u00e1k\u016f. Tato zpr\u00e1va n\u00e1s dost vykolejila, ale pokus o Olympi\u00e1du d\u00e1me.<\/p>\nZ BC vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme s Vladim\u00edrem v 11:00h. Asi 10min po proudu \u0159eky a pak uh\u00fdb\u00e1me po su\u0165ovisku doprava, p\u0159esn\u011b podle v\u010derej\u0161\u00edho pr\u016fzkumu. Su\u0165 je vysoce nestabiln\u00ed, po\u0159\u00e1d uj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed pod nohama a s t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdmi batohy je postup dost nam\u00e1hav\u00fd. Nav\u00edc se od r\u00e1na c\u00edt\u00edm zle, zpr\u00e1va o M\u00e1rovi k tomu nep\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1. Cesta do C1 vede p\u0159es t\u0159i su\u0165ov\u00e1 b\u0159icha, kter\u00e9 je ide\u00e1ln\u00ed obch\u00e1zet p\u0159i pohledu zezdola zprava, jak to u\u010dinil Vladim\u00edr. J\u00e1 jdu p\u0159es druh\u00e9 b\u0159icho diretisimou p\u0159\u00edmo a to byla chyba. M\u00edsty sklon 45\u00b0, kameny pod nohama uj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed, pro ruce nen\u00ed stabiln\u00edch chyt\u016f. Velice vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed \u00fasek. Posledn\u00ed \u2013 t\u0159et\u00ed su\u0165ov\u00e9 b\u0159icho je ji\u017e ze dvou t\u0159etin zakryt\u00e9 sn\u011bhem a oba ho jdeme zleva. Posledn\u00edch 50m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 sn\u011bhovo-ledov\u00e9 kor\u00fdtko. Nazujeme ma\u010dky a bereme do rukou cep\u00edny. Na vr\u0161ku tohoto b\u0159icha stav\u00edme v 16:15h stan C1 v z\u00e1krytu velk\u00e9ho balvanu, kter\u00fd tvo\u0159\u00ed dobrou v\u011btrnou bari\u00e9ru, v\u00fd\u0161ka 4950m.<\/p>\nOd stanu vid\u00edme kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 m\u00edsto z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00edho v\u00fdstupu \u2013 sn\u011bhovo-ledov\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih, odhadem za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 5100m, sklon vypad\u00e1 na cca 45\u00b0 a p\u0159ev\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed na h\u0159eben 400m. V\u00fd\u0161vih tvo\u0159\u00ed uprost\u0159ed z\u0159eteln\u00e9 koryto, kter\u00fdm budeme stoupat. Zleva jsme limitov\u00e1ni p\u0159ev\u011bj\u00ed a zprava \u010derstv\u00fdm lavin\u00f3zn\u00edm odtrhem. Rozhodujeme se, \u017ee z\u00edtra p\u016fjdeme bez ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, pouze se zbran\u011bmi a ma\u010dkami, vypad\u00e1 to, \u017ee by to m\u011blo j\u00edt a budeme hr\u00e1t na \u010das \u2013 chci se vracet z vrcholu co nejd\u0159\u00edv, abychom se nebo\u0159ili. M\u00e1me toho oba dost. Va\u0159\u00edme \u010daj a po chv\u00edli us\u00edn\u00e1me. Bud\u00ed\u010dek na\u0159izujeme na 04:00h. Noc je v\u00fdborn\u00e1, klidn\u00e1, vyspal jsem se zat\u00edm nejl\u00e9pe z cel\u00e9ho pobytu na Pam\u00edru!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_614\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-614\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9_u_stanu.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-614\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9_u_stanu-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"9_u_stanu\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9_u_stanu-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9_u_stanu.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-614\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">N\u00e1\u0161 stan v C1 (4950 m).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n12\/7\/009<\/strong> Startujeme od stanu dle pl\u00e1nu po 04:00h. Rann\u00ed vst\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed mi nikdy ned\u011bl\u00e1 dob\u0159e, dne\u0161ek nen\u00ed v\u00fdjimkou. Hv\u011bzdy n\u00e1m sv\u00edt\u00ed na cestu. Po 50min se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do v\u00fd\u0161ky 5100m na za\u010d\u00e1tek v\u00fd\u0161vihu. Sklon potvrzuje odhady na 45\u00b0, sn\u00edh je tvrd\u00fd a p\u0159edn\u00ed hroty ma\u010dek sympaticky dr\u017e\u00ed. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me l\u00e9zt. Postup bez ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed je velmi rychl\u00fd a lezen\u00ed m\u011b bav\u00ed. U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si to. Ji\u017e se pomalu rozedn\u00edv\u00e1, za n\u00e1mi slune\u010dn\u00ed paprsky probouz\u00ed do nov\u00e9ho dne Hind\u00faku\u0161 a Karakoram, fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed pohledy nab\u00edz\u00ed v d\u00e1li K2, Broad Peak a Gasherbrumy. Na konci v\u00fd\u0161vihu, kdy\u017e se svah pomali\u010dku narovn\u00e1v\u00e1, n\u00e1s za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 \u0161imrat slun\u00ed\u010dko, co\u017e v\u00edt\u00e1m s povd\u011bkem, proto\u017ee u\u017e u\u017e jsem p\u0159est\u00e1val c\u00edtit prsty u nohou. A p\u0159iv\u00e9st si dom\u016f omrzliny opravdu nechci. Slunce v\u0161e zpravuje. Str\u00e1\u0148 se zplo\u0161\u0165uje a t\u016fra se st\u00e1v\u00e1 stereotypn\u00ed a\u017e prud\u00e9rn\u00ed (5500m). Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed ji\u017e za chv\u00edli vid\u00edme skalnatou pyramidu zna\u010d\u00edc\u00ed vrchol Piku Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy! Je to u\u017e jen 200m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch, ale trv\u00e1 to celou v\u011b\u010dnost. Te\u010f u\u017e ale v\u011b\u0159\u00edme, \u017ee to dok\u00e1\u017eeme. V\u00fd\u0161vih na samotn\u00fd skalnat\u00fd vrchol je ji\u017e v pohod\u011b.<\/p>\nVrchol \u2013 7:30h!!! My dva jako prvn\u00ed \u010ce\u0161i na Piku Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy 5883m! P\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 pocity a velk\u00e1 radost. Fam\u00f3zn\u00ed pohledy na podkovu vrchol\u016f doliny Sary-\u0160itcharv a cel\u00fd Pam\u00edr, Hind\u00faku\u0161, Karakoram\u2026na v\u00fdchod\u011b Pik Karla Marxe, na z\u00e1pad\u011b Pik Mayakovsk\u00e9ho. Ani mr\u00e1\u010dku, bezv\u011bt\u0159\u00ed, slunce\u2026a nikdo nikde krom\u011b n\u00e1s dvou. Fot\u00edme a vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me si neopakovateln\u00e9. Po hodin\u011b str\u00e1ven\u00e9 na vrcholu sb\u00edh\u00e1me po trase v\u00fdstupu ke stanu, kde jsme za 1h. \u010c\u00e1st v\u00fd\u0161vihu sj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edm po zadku, brzd\u00edm cep\u00ednem, to je fofr! P\u0159ed 10:00h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme do C1. Jsme vy\u010derpan\u00ed a na 3h us\u00edn\u00e1me. Kolem 14h bal\u00edme v\u011bci a sch\u00e1z\u00edme dol\u016f do BC.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_615\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-615\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10_vrchol_pmo.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-615\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10_vrchol_pmo-300x165.jpg\" alt=\"10_vrchol_pmo\" width=\"300\" height=\"165\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10_vrchol_pmo-300x165.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10_vrchol_pmo.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-615\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vrcholovka z Piku Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy (5883 m), vlevo Vladim\u00edr, vpravo j\u00e1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nCesta po suti nez\u00e1\u017eivn\u00e1. V jednom moment\u011b (4700m) se Vladim\u00edrovi zasek\u00e1v\u00e1 noha pod \u0161utr a z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 za\u0161prajcovan\u00fd s batohem v nehybn\u00e9 poloze. J\u00e1 jsem asi 100m pod n\u00edm a sly\u0161\u00edm jen \u201ePomoc!\u201c. Odhazuji sv\u016fj batoh a vyd\u00e1v\u00e1m se k n\u011bmu. Ani nechci dom\u00fd\u0161let, jestli je to zlomen\u00e1 noha. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, kdy\u017e jsem asi 50m od n\u011bho, vol\u00e1, \u017ee je OK, dostal se z toho s\u00e1m a vypravuje mi, co se p\u0159esn\u011b stalo. Do BC se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me po 16:00h.<\/p>\nNal\u00e9z\u00e1me zde dopis od L\u00e1di, kter\u00fd je nyn\u00ed na t\u016f\u0159e na ledovci. Dle zpr\u00e1vy je to s M\u00e1rou zl\u00e9. Kolem 17:00h L\u00e1\u010fa p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed k n\u00e1m do BC, vym\u011b\u0148ujeme si z\u00e1\u017eitky, va\u0159\u00edme \u010daj a j\u00eddlo. M\u00e1ra je pr\u00fd st\u00e1le nehybn\u00fd. Z\u00edtra bal\u00edme v\u011bci a sch\u00e1z\u00edme dol\u016f k nemocn\u00e9mu, abychom se dohodli na dal\u0161\u00edm postupu. M\u00eds\u00ed se ve mn\u011b pocity radosti z vrcholu a starost\u00ed o to, co budeme d\u011blat s M\u00e1rou.<\/p>\n<h3>Nemocn\u00fd M\u00e1ra<\/strong><\/h3>\n13\/7\/009<\/strong> Vst\u00e1v\u00e1me v 08:00h, bal\u00edme v\u0161e co uneseme a v 10:30h sch\u00e1z\u00edme k M\u00e1rovi, cesta trv\u00e1 2h. Po \u0161esti dnech se op\u011bt vid\u00edme v\u0161ichni pohromad\u011b. Pohled na M\u00e1ru nen\u00ed moc pozitivn\u00ed, ale podle toho, co \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed kluci, tak dnes u\u017e vypad\u00e1 dob\u0159e, pr\u00fd je zn\u00e1t posun k lep\u0161\u00edmu. Pozitivn\u00ed je, \u017ee komunikuje, ale st\u00e1le pouze le\u017e\u00ed. Kluci maj\u00ed radost, \u017ee jsme s Vladim\u00edrem dali vrchol Olympi\u00e1dy.<\/p>\nB\u011bhem na\u0161eho v\u00fdstupu se o M\u00e1ru staral F\u00e1na a Ruda se\u0161el dol\u016f k pastevc\u016fm pro ml\u00e9ko a ajrak (n\u011bco na zp\u016fsob jogurtu). Odpoledne se Vladim\u00edr s Rudou vrac\u00ed do BC pro zbytek v\u011bc\u00ed, p\u0159enucuj\u00ed tam a z\u00edtra sejdou zp\u011bt k n\u00e1m.<\/p>\n14\/7\/009<\/strong> Dopoledne M\u00e1ra s\u00e1m vylezl ze stanu! Velk\u00fd pokrok. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 se znovu u\u010dit chodit. Vypad\u00e1 to, jako kdyby tot\u00e1ln\u011b o\u017eral\u00fd loutkoherec minim\u00e1ln\u011b po t\u0159iceti pivech vedl svou loutku. Nezaujat\u00fd div\u00e1k by se v\u00e1lel sm\u00edchy, ale p\u0159i v\u011bdom\u00ed, \u017ee tohohle \u010dlov\u011bka pot\u0159ebujeme dostat dol\u016f a kousek pod n\u00e1mi je technicky n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 m\u00edsto \u2013 sout\u011bska nad druh\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtokem, tak to a\u017e tak legra\u010dn\u00ed nen\u00ed.<\/p>\nS F\u00e1nou se rozhodujeme, \u017ee sneseme komplet na\u0161e v\u011bci a \u010d\u00e1st v\u011bc\u00ed kluk\u016f o t\u00e1bor n\u00ed\u017ee \u2013 k soutoku s druh\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtokem do v\u00fd\u0161ky 3600m, tam p\u0159esp\u00edme a z\u00edtra op\u011bt vystoup\u00e1me sem k M\u00e1rovi. Budeme doufat, \u017ee z\u00edtra bude M\u00e1ra schopen s h\u016flkami a bez batohu postupn\u011b sch\u00e1zet s doprovodem po vlastn\u00edch noh\u00e1ch. L\u00e1\u010fa tu z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 s M\u00e1rou L\u00e1\u010fa a odpoledne p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed Ruda s Vladim\u00edrem z BC, kter\u00fd zametli.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_619\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-619\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11_nemocny_mara.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-619\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11_nemocny_mara-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"11_nemocny_mara\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11_nemocny_mara-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11_nemocny_mara.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-619\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nemocn\u00fd M\u00e1ra.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n15\/7\/009<\/strong> Po klidn\u00e9 noci u druh\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku (3600m) vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme s F\u00e1nou v 9:45h s pr\u00e1zdn\u00fdmi batohy ke kluk\u016fm do 3900m, kde jsme v 11:30h. M\u00e1ra vyzbrojen h\u016flkami a plemb\u00e1kem pro p\u0159\u00edpad p\u00e1du zkou\u0161\u00ed chodit a k velk\u00e9 radosti n\u00e1s v\u0161ech mu to docela i jde. S F\u00e1nou bereme v\u011bci M\u00e1ry a L\u00e1di a v\u0161ichni sch\u00e1z\u00edme. M\u00e1rovi to jde na danou situaci skv\u011ble! K v\u0161eobecn\u00e9mu \u00fa\u017easu se M\u00e1ra dost\u00e1v\u00e1 za 3h a\u017e k druh\u00e9mu p\u0159\u00edtoku do 3600m! Kdy\u017e zvl\u00e1dnul tento \u00fasek, tak odtud je to u\u017e pohoda \u2013 tady vede pasteveck\u00e1 p\u011b\u0161inka a\u017e dol\u016f do ky\u0161laku.<\/p>\nVzhledem k t\u00e9to pozitivn\u00ed situaci s M\u00e1rou se domlouv\u00e1me, \u017ee z\u00edtra p\u016fjdeme na dvoudenn\u00ed trek do doliny druh\u00e9ho prav\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku a on za\u010dne pomali\u010dku sestupovat s nejpot\u0159ebn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi v\u011bcmi (spac\u00e1k, stan a j\u00eddlo na dva dny) sm\u011brem do \u0160itcharvu.<\/p>\nDne\u0161ek byl velmi dobr\u00fdm dnem. M\u00e1ra se\u0161el nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed \u00fasek cesty a u\u017e je prakticky sob\u011bsta\u010dn\u00fd. Z nejhor\u0161\u00edho je venku. Ale legrace to nebyla \u2013 prvn\u00ed 3-4 dny o sob\u011b nev\u011bd\u011bl, byl ochrnut\u00fd od prsou dol\u016f a 5.-6. den se za\u010dal u\u010dit znovu chodit. Je ot\u00e1zka co bylo p\u0159\u00ed\u010dinou. Odhadujeme to na tot\u00e1ln\u00ed vy\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed organismu a jeho \u201erestart\u201c od nuly, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b nezn\u00e1mou bakterii \u010di men\u0161\u00ed mrtvi\u010dku\u2026? N\u00e1m s F\u00e1nou doch\u00e1z\u00ed pomalu ale jist\u011b j\u00eddlo.<\/p>\n16\/7\/009<\/strong> M\u00e1ra sch\u00e1z\u00ed dol\u016f do \u0160itcharvu. My ostatn\u00ed vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme v 10:30h na trek do doliny druh\u00e9ho prav\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku \u0159eky Sary-\u0160itcharv. Jdeme nalehko, bez stanu, pouze se spac\u00e1kem a karimatkou. Sp\u00e1t budeme pod jezerem ve v\u00fd\u0161ce cca 4300m pod \u0161ir\u00e1kem. Za\u010d\u00e1tek stoup\u00e1n\u00ed (prvn\u00edch 400m) do v\u00fd\u0161ky 4000m je ostr\u00fd, pot\u00e9 pozvoln\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed po star\u00e9 mor\u00e9n\u011b. V 13:00h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme do v\u00fd\u0161ky 4250m k mal\u00e9mu vyschl\u00e9mu jez\u00edrku. Zde \u2013 na travnat\u00e9 pl\u00e1ni \u2013 se rozhodujeme, \u017ee budeme sp\u00e1t \u2013 p\u0159\u00edmo mezi JZ st\u011bnou Olympi\u00e1dy a Pikem 5696. Bouldruji na velk\u00e9m \u0161utru a koch\u00e1me se kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi v\u00fdhledy na okoln\u00ed \u0161t\u00edty. J\u00eddla u\u017e m\u00e1me m\u00e1lo, zb\u00fdvaj\u00ed jen pol\u00e9vky, chyb\u00ed sladkosti.<\/p>\nV noci sleduji \u0161kv\u00edrou ve spac\u00e1ku fantastickou hv\u011bzdnou oblohu a vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1m si tajemn\u00fd klid no\u010dn\u00edho Pam\u00edru, hlubok\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. V noci je do -5\u00b0C.<\/p>\n17\/7\/009<\/strong> L\u00e1\u010fa, Ruda a Vladim\u00edr jdou r\u00e1no v\u00fd\u0161 pod JZ st\u011bnu Olympi\u00e1dy. J\u00e1 s F\u00e1nou sestupujeme k na\u0161emu stanu do 3600m. Odpoledne stav\u00edme mu\u017e\u00edka vedle stanu, va\u0159\u00edme a relaxujeme. Doj\u00edd\u00e1me posledn\u00ed zbytky j\u00eddla, z\u00edtra sch\u00e1z\u00edme po dvou t\u00fddnech z hor do \u0160itcharvu.<\/p>\n<h3>\u0160itcharv a l\u00e1zn\u011b v Yamchunu<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_620\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-620\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12_u_alika.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-620\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12_u_alika-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"12_u_alika\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12_u_alika-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/12_u_alika.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-620\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oslava \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9ho n\u00e1vratu z hor u Alika v \u0160itcharvu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n18\/7\/009<\/strong> Bal\u00edme ve\u0161ker\u00e9 v\u011bci a v 09:45h sch\u00e1z\u00edme po 14 dnech dol\u016f do civilizace. Za 40min jsme u soutoku Sary- a Rosto-\u0160itcharv (330m), u prvn\u00edho mostu (3000m) v 11:30h. N\u00e1sleduje vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed \u00fasek p\u0159es t\u0159i stoup\u00e1n\u00ed, slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed, chodidla v pohor\u00e1ch u\u017e neskute\u010dn\u011b p\u00e1l\u00ed. P\u0159ed posledn\u00edm v\u00fd\u0161vihem na n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161inu mus\u00edme brodit \u0159eku. Te\u010de ji\u017e moc vody, dvakr\u00e1t tolik, co p\u0159ed 14 dny, kdy\u017e jsme \u0161li tudy nahoru. Posledn\u00ed \u00fasek po asfaltu do vesnice je u\u017e opravdu za trest. Prvn\u00ed zast\u00e1vka samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v magaz\u00ednu (14:30h) \u2013 v\u00edt\u00e1 n\u00e1s mil\u00fd \u00fasm\u011bv prodava\u010dky, d\u00e1v\u00e1me Baltiku 7 a sladk\u00e9 o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ky. B\u011bhem 1h se tu setk\u00e1v\u00e1me v\u0161ichni v\u010detn\u011b M\u00e1ry, kter\u00fd od domorodc\u016f dost\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159ezd\u00edvku baletka, ta se ihned \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b uj\u00edm\u00e1. Korunu v\u0161emu d\u00e1v\u00e1 Vladim\u00edr, kdy\u017e jednou\u00a0M\u00e1ru naz\u00fdv\u00e1 omylem houslistou <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/vypravy.zdenda.net\/wp-includes\/images\/smilies\/icon_smile.gif\" alt=\":-)\" \/><\/p>\nU Alika doma je cel\u00e1 rodina \u0161\u0165astn\u00e1, \u017ee n\u00e1s op\u011bt vid\u00ed a \u017ee jsme v\u0161ichni v po\u0159\u00e1dku. Berou n\u00e1s za \u010dleny rodiny, heslo \u201eHost do domu, b\u016fh do domu\u201c zde opravdu plat\u00ed na 120%. Odpoledne bohat\u00e9 poho\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, p\u0159ed\u00e1v\u00e1me Alikovi triko na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy, mapy a pasujeme ho na 7. \u010dlena na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy jako na\u0161eho hostitele. Ve\u010der ko\u0161at\u00e1 diskuze o probl\u00e9mech sv\u011bta, \u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed \u010desk\u00e9 pivn\u00ed kultury. Z m\u00edstn\u00edho jazyka: Sary = horn\u00ed, Rosto = prav\u00fd, Charv = \u0159eka, \u0160it = saxoul (zdej\u0161\u00ed trnit\u00fd ke\u0159\u00edk).<\/p>\n19\/7\/009<\/strong> Vydatn\u00e1 sn\u00eddan\u011b, hygiena cel\u00e9ho t\u011bla (po opravdu dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b), vych\u00e1zka po \u0160itcharvu, koup\u00e1n\u00ed v Pjand\u017ei.<\/p>\n20-21\/7\/009<\/strong> V 08:00h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme za miner\u00e1ln\u00edmi prameny. \u0158idi\u010de n\u00e1m domluvil Alek. Po komunika\u010dn\u00edm \u0161umu mezi n\u00e1mi a \u0159idi\u010dem se nakonec dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do vytou\u017een\u00fdch l\u00e1zn\u00ed Yamchun (3100m), kde si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me tepl\u00fd pramen miner\u00e1ln\u00edch vod (43\u00b0C), koup\u00e1n\u00ed zde stoj\u00ed 10 Somoni. Proch\u00e1zka k pevnosti Yamchun z 3. st. p\u0159. n. l. \u00da\u017easn\u00fd relax po d\u0159in\u011b v hor\u00e1ch. Stanujeme p\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159ed l\u00e1zn\u011bmi. Noc tepl\u00e1, 14\u00b0C. Dopoledne koup\u00e1n\u00ed v l\u00e1zn\u00edch, odpoledne odjezd zp\u00e1tky do \u0160itcharvu.<\/p>\n22\/7\/009<\/strong> V\u00fdlet p\u011b\u0161ky do 10km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho ky\u0161laku Dar\u0161aj \u2013 v\u00fdchoz\u00ed m\u00edsto na Pik Mayakovskovo \u2013(6096m), odtud si domlouv\u00e1me dopravu autem do 50km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho region\u00e1ln\u00edho centra Ishkashim (30 Somoni\/hlavu zp\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed). V Ischkashimu trh, v\u00fdm\u011bna pen\u011bz, restaurace, zmrzlina.<\/p>\n<h3>Du\u0161anbe<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_621\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-621\" style=\"width: 202px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13_dusanbe.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-621\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13_dusanbe-202x300.jpg\" alt=\"13_dusanbe\" width=\"202\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13_dusanbe-202x300.jpg 202w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13_dusanbe.jpg 541w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 202px) 100vw, 202px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-621\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Du\u0161anbe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n23-24\/7\/009<\/strong> Lou\u010den\u00ed s Alikovou rodinou. V 09:00h vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na cestu do Du\u0161anbe. Dopravu m\u00e1me zaji\u0161t\u011bnou p\u0159es Aleka (450 Somoni\/hlavu). Jedeme star\u00fdm UAZem. Cestou do Ishkashimu m\u011bn\u00edme 4x kolo. Kv\u016fli \u0161patn\u00e9mu benz\u00ednu auto chc\u00edpe a ka\u017ed\u00fdch 20-30km mus\u00edme chladit motor k\u00fdblem vody z \u0159eky (je\u0161t\u011b \u017ee jedeme po\u0159\u00e1d pod\u00e9l Pjand\u017ee). Do Khorongu jedeme dlouh\u00fdch 9h (200km, cestou do hor jsme tuto trasu jeli 2h). Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed te\u010f u\u017e m\u016f\u017eeme jet po hlavn\u00ed trase z Khorongu do Du\u0161anbe, proto\u017ee loupe\u017eivou bandu, kter\u00e1 blokovala pereval cestou do hor ji\u017e t\u00e1d\u017eick\u00e1 arm\u00e1da post\u0159\u00edlela. Z Khorongu u\u017e auto jede dob\u0159e. Sp\u00edme pod perevalem asi 3h. R\u00e1no samoz\u0159ejm\u011b slunce, jak jinak. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me \u010cechy z v\u00fdpravy <a href=\"http:\/\/www.zigulikemdomongolska.cz\/\">www.zigulikemdomongolska.cz<\/a>. V Du\u0161anbe jsme kone\u010dn\u011b v 19h. Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se u br\u00e1chy \u0159idi\u010de. Ve\u010der v Safari Baru Du\u0161anbejsk\u00e9 to\u010den\u00e9 pivo \u2013 opravdu nen\u00ed dobr\u00e9, ale te\u010de.<\/p>\n25-26\/7\/009<\/strong> Cel\u00fd den si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me v Du\u0161anbe: pivko, net, bazar, koup\u00e1n\u00ed v Komsomolsk\u00e9m ozeru, motorov\u00fd \u010dlun, rusk\u00e9 kolo, \u0159et\u00edz\u00e1k, st\u0159elnice, kule\u010dn\u00edk, zmrzlina, meloun, j\u00eddlo. Nejprve si fot\u00edme my domorodce, po tom, co si s F\u00e1nou kupujeme ko\u0161ile s kravatou a na hlav\u00e1ch m\u00e1me prav\u00e9 pam\u00edrsk\u00e9 \u010dapky, tak si domorodci za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed fotit n\u00e1s. Ve\u010der vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmka, ostra\u0161uj\u00edc\u00ed zku\u0161enost s t\u00e1d\u017eick\u00fdm \u017ev\u00fdkac\u00edm tab\u00e1kem. L\u00e1\u010fa jde ve\u010der p\u0159ed odletem na kom\u00edn (je to kom\u00edn\u00e1\u0159 a chce m\u00edt cenn\u00fd z\u00e1\u0159ez z Du\u0161anbe), chyt\u00e1 ho policie, jeliko\u017e nem\u00e1 s sebou doklady, tak p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed s policajtem a\u017e do bytu, pokuta 20 \u20ac. V 02:00h r\u00e1no jedeme na leti\u0161t\u011b taxikem, Vladim\u00edr, L\u00e1\u010fa a Ruda zadr\u017eeni na policejn\u00ed stanici jako potencion\u00e1ln\u00ed teroristi, po p\u016flhodin\u011b ukec\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed jsou propu\u0161t\u011bni. V 05:10h odlet do Istanbulu a d\u00e1le do Prahy. V Praze po 13h.<\/p>\nStr\u00e1vili jsme \u010dty\u0159i nezapomenuteln\u00e9 t\u00fddny na t\u00e1d\u017eick\u00e9 p\u016fd\u011b. Zdravotn\u00ed probl\u00e9my jednoho \u010dlena v\u00fdpravy ovlivnili pr\u016fb\u011bh cel\u00e9 akce, na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed v\u0161e dob\u0159e dopadlo. I p\u0159es tyto nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 chv\u00edle se n\u00e1m poda\u0159il prvn\u00ed \u010desk\u00fd v\u00fdstup na Pik Moskevsk\u00e9 Olympi\u00e1dy (5883m) a i zbytek \u010dasu jsme si \u0159\u00e1dn\u011b u\u017eili, tak\u017ee hodnot\u00edm v\u00fdlet na Pam\u00edr jako velice poveden\u00fd. Z\u00e1\u017eitek mus\u00ed b\u00fdt hlavn\u011b hlubok\u00fd. T\u011bch m\u00e1me dost. Nav\u00edc v\u011bt\u0161ina z nich je i pozitivn\u00edch, co\u017e je n\u011bco nav\u00edc <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/vypravy.zdenda.net\/wp-includes\/images\/smilies\/icon_smile.gif\" alt=\":-)\" \/><\/p>\nD\u011bkujeme sponzor\u016fm: HUMI OUTDOOR, Expedi\u010dn\u00ed fond, ISOTRA, Evropsk\u00e1 cestovn\u00ed poji\u0161\u0165ovna, JUREK S+R, MEGAPIXEL, St\u00edn\u00edc\u00ed technika Franti\u0161ek ULRICH.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/09_Pamir\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-zakladni-informace\/\">Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-ruduv-denik\/\">Rud\u016fv den\u00edk<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/propagace\/\">Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2>Propagace t\u00e9to v\u00fdpravy:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v American Alpine Journal\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/publications.americanalpineclub.org\/articles\/12201221300\/Asia-Tajikistan-Shakhdara-Range-Pik-Moscow-Olympic-Games-5883m-South-Ridge\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>Vystoupen\u00ed Zdendy Boudy v po\u0159adu CZe\u0161ka na cest\u00e1ch v televizi Public TV (14. d\u00edl, druh\u00e1 polovina po\u0159adu v\u011bnov\u00e1na na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdprav\u011b).<\/li>\n<li>Dne 7. 8. 2009 vy\u0161el \u010dl\u00e1nek o na\u0161\u00ed expedici na serveru\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hedvabnastezka.cz\" target=\"_blank\">Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e1 stezka<\/a>\u00a0– \u010dl\u00e1nek naleznete\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hedvabnastezka.cz\/klub-hedvabna-stezka\/prvni-cesky-pokus-o-vystup-na-sestitisicove-vrcholy-v-doline\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek na serveru Horydoly\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.horydoly.cz\/horolezci\/pik-moskevske-olympiady.html\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>Prom\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed fotek z na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy na Posledn\u00edm slan\u011bn\u00ed\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.holoko.cz\" target=\"_blank\">HO Loko Liberec<\/a>\u00a021. 11. 2009.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v prosincov\u00e9m vyd\u00e1n\u00ed P\u011bn\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho Zpravodaje –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_pencinskyzpravodaj1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 1<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_pencinskyzpravodaj2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 2<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v \u010dasopise Lid\u00e9 a Hory 6\/2009 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_lideahory1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 1<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_lideahory2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 2<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v \u010dasopise Vertigo podzim\/zima 2009 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_vertigo1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 1<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_vertigo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 2<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2009_vertigo3.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">strana 3<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>V\u00fdstava fotografi\u00ed z na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy – V\u00fdstavn\u00ed s\u00ed\u0148 OS Osm na Palmovce v Praze (25. 3. 2010 – 25. 4. 2010).<\/li>\n<li>Prom\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed filmu a fotografi\u00ed z na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy – zasedac\u00ed m\u00edstnost O\u00da P\u011bn\u010d\u00edn, 9. 4. 2010, 18:00 hodin.<\/li>\n<li>Prom\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed filmu a fogografi\u00ed z na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hedvabnastezka.cz\/klub-cestovatelu-praha\" target=\"_blank\">Klub Cestovatel\u016f v Praze<\/a>, 12. 4. 2010, 18:30 hodin.<\/li>\n<li>V\u00fdstava fotografi\u00ed z na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy – zasedac\u00ed m\u00edstnost O\u00da P\u011bn\u010d\u00edn – kv\u011bten 2010.<\/li>\n<li>Promo video zna\u010dky Jurek od Lum\u00edra Pecolda <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=oYrbtiAuW-E#t=5m17s\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u010clenov\u00e9: Zdenda Bouda, Fanda Ulrich, Ruda \u010cern\u00fd, Vladim\u00edr Soj\u00e1k, L\u00e1\u010fa Szil\u00e1gyi, M\u00e1ra Erban FOTOGALERIE\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed informace\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Rud\u016fv den\u00edk\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Propagace Prvn\u00ed my\u0161lenky o leto\u0161n\u00edm letn\u00edm v\u00fdletu ve m\u011b zr\u00e1ly u\u017e v l\u00e9t\u011b 2008 na Tian-Shanu. Cht\u011bl jsem n\u011bco velk\u00e9ho a hlavn\u011b panensk\u00e9ho. Ji\u017e d\u0159\u00edve jsem vid\u011bl okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed fotku Piku Karla Marxe … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading HUMI OUTDOOR – Pam\u00edr – T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1n – Sary\u0161itcharv 2009<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2009-tajikistan-sarysitcharv-pik-moskevske-olympiady\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-233","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopisy","category-clanky","category-svet"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-3L","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/233","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=233"}],"version-history":[{"count":27,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/233\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2044,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/233\/revisions\/2044"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=233"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=233"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=233"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}