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{"id":224,"date":"2013-10-18T12:27:31","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T12:27:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=224"},"modified":"2016-07-08T08:20:32","modified_gmt":"2016-07-08T08:20:32","slug":"podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/","title":{"rendered":"Podkarpatsk\u00e1 Rus \u2013 Hoverla 2013"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed c\u00edp b\u00fdval\u00e9 1. \u010cSR m\u011b l\u00e1kal u\u017e p\u0159ed 15 lety, kdy jsem si koupil stru\u010dn\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce, ale cestu jsem po\u0159\u00e1d odkl\u00e1dal. \u010cas uzr\u00e1l kone\u010dn\u011b zjara 2013, kdy jsem pl\u00e1noval kam vyrazit na m\u00e1jov\u00e9 sv\u00e1tky. A tak jsme se Zuzkou odjeli ve\u010der na \u010carod\u011bjnice vlakem do Michalovc\u016f a Prvn\u00ed M\u00e1j jsme slavili v U\u017ehorod\u011b.<\/p>\n

<\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Cesta pod hory<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Praha se s n\u00e1mi lou\u010d\u00ed o filipojakubsk\u00e9 noci pom\u011brn\u011b chladn\u00fdm a mokr\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm, zato Michalovce n\u00e1s na Sv\u00e1tek pr\u00e1ce v\u00edtaj\u00ed sluncem a teplem. Zapla\u0165 p\u00e1nb\u016fh, \u017ee jsem si vzal sand\u00e1le a ne jen pohory, jak jsem doma chv\u00edli uva\u017eoval! V t\u011bch by se mi upekly nohy a smrad po vyzut\u00ed by m\u011bl jist\u011b na sv\u011bdom\u00ed v\u00edcero ob\u011bt\u00ed na \u017eivotech. Pauzu v Michalovc\u00edch tr\u00e1v\u00edme na prvom\u00e1jov\u00e9 demonstraci m\u00edstn\u00edch komunist\u016f. Chv\u00edlemi m\u011b jejich kecy up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b rozesm\u00edvaj\u00ed, ale jsou i chv\u00edle, kdy mi jde z jejich v\u00fdblitk\u016f a\u017e mr\u00e1z po z\u00e1dech. Hned vedle se p\u0159ipravuj\u00ed maratonci na \u0161\u00edravsk\u00fd maraton.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_652\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-652\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/uzghorod.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-652\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/uzghorod-300x195.jpg\" alt=\"uzghorod\" width=\"300\" height=\"195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/uzghorod-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/uzghorod.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-652\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v U\u017ehorod\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Ve 14:10 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ukrajinsk\u00fdm busem do U\u017ehorodu (plat\u00edme 4 EUR\/osobu). Ve Vy\u0161n\u00e9m Nemeck\u00e9m na hranic\u00edch Schengenu trv\u00e1 kontrola n\u011bco p\u0159es hodinu a v hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b dne\u0161n\u00ed ukrajinsk\u00e9 Zakarpatsk\u00e9 oblasti (za 1. \u010cSR Podkarpatsk\u00e1 Rus) jsme chv\u00edli po 17. h kijevsk\u00e9ho \u010dasu (\u010desk\u00fd \u010das + 1 h). Zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee autobus do Rachova (a d\u00e1le na Ivanofrankovsk) jede ve 20:00 h, ale pokladn\u00ed u\u017e nem\u00e1 l\u00edstky. Zkus\u00edme to tedy p\u0159\u00edmo u \u0159idi\u010de. V pauze vyb\u00edr\u00e1m pen\u00edze z bankomatu (poplatek za v\u00fdb\u011br z \u00fa\u010dtu u Raiffeisenbank v bankomatu ukrajinsk\u00e9 Privatbank je snesiteln\u00fdch 112 K\u010d).<\/p>\n<p>\u010cek\u00e1n\u00ed na autobus\u00e1ku n\u00e1m zp\u0159\u00edjem\u0148uje m\u00edstn\u00ed cik\u00e1nsk\u00fd <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00003.htm\" target=\"_blank\">harmonik\u00e1\u0159<\/a>. Za hran\u00ed po n\u00e1s chce eura,\u00a0na to\u00a0se mu samoz\u0159ejm\u011b vysm\u011bju, ale jeliko\u017e usrk\u00e1v\u00e1m dost hrozn\u00e9 pivo, tak mu jej nab\u00edz\u00edm jako n\u00e1hra\u017eku za eura. Jednou dvakr\u00e1t odm\u00edt\u00e1 \u2013 \u017ee pr\u00fd je abstinent, ale na pot\u0159et\u00ed nepohrd\u00e1 touto mou velkorysou nab\u00eddkou. Nutno podotknout, \u017ee i jemu se k\u0159iv\u00ed huba p\u0159i pit\u00ed toho patoku. P\u00e1r minut p\u0159ed 20:00 h p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed n\u00e1\u0161 autobus. Hrnu se k \u0159idi\u010di a pt\u00e1m se ho, zda m\u00e1 dv\u011b m\u00edsta do Rachova. M\u00e1me kliku a \u0159idi\u010d n\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1 m\u00edsto v z\u00e1du na p\u011btce. P\u00e1r lid\u00ed takov\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nem\u00e1 a budou muset jet a\u017e r\u00e1no. Cesta z U\u017ehorodu do Rachova je dlouh\u00e1 asi 230 km, silnice do Muka\u010deva je OK, pak se kvalita vozovky zhor\u0161uje. Mezi Muka\u010devem a Velk\u00fdm Bo\u010dkovem je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed fluktuace lid\u00ed a autobus nejnarvan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Do Rachova p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme po \u0161esti hodin\u00e1ch j\u00edzdy v 02:00 h. Na autobus\u00e1ku je provoz nonstop (!) a pan\u00ed pokladn\u00ed n\u00e1m rad\u00ed, kde najdeme hotel. Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se v kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m nov\u011b zrekonstruovan\u00e9m hotelu Olenka na hlavn\u00ed ulici M\u00edru, 400 m od centra vpravo (100 m za hotelem Evropa, b\u00fdval\u00fd hotel Praha). Cena za double room 250 Hr je na m\u00edstn\u00ed pom\u011bry vysok\u00e1, ale\u00a0nov\u00e9 pokoje v\u010detn\u011b soc. za\u0159.\u00a0a pokro\u010dil\u00e1 no\u010dn\u00ed hodina n\u00e1s p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010duj\u00ed, \u017ee je to dobr\u00e1 volba.<\/p>\n<p>\u00danava\u00a0z cestov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00e1 za n\u00e1sledek, \u017ee\u00a0vst\u00e1v\u00e1me a\u017e p\u0159ed 10. h. Sn\u00eddani si d\u00e1v\u00e1me v hotelov\u00e9 restauraci na terase, pivo je daleko lep\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ten lahvov\u00fd patok v U\u017ehorodu, venku je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 letn\u00ed tepl\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed.\u00a0Rachov m\u00e1 asi 15 000 obyvatel a je to p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 podhorsk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko. Za 1. \u010cSR mu byla p\u0159edpov\u00edd\u00e1na velk\u00e1 budoucnost a \u0159\u00edkalo se mu karpatsk\u00fd Davos.<\/p>\n<p>Odpoledne (14:00 h) odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme busem\u00a0do 12 km vzd\u00e1len\u00fdch Kvas\u016f (ji\u017e p\u0159ed 1. sv v\u00e1lkou tu byly a dosud jsou l\u00e1zn\u011b) \u2013 na\u0161eho v\u00fdchoz\u00edho bodu do hor. Autobus n\u00e1s vyhazuje p\u0159\u00edmo\u00a0u rozcestn\u00edku v Kvasech (535 m), kter\u00fd \u0159\u00edk\u00e1: \u201cPetros \u2013 17 km, Hoverla 26 km\u201d. Hned u zast\u00e1vky autobusu je prodejna\/hospoda a p\u00e1r set metr\u016f odtud pr\u00fd kemp\u00edk (neov\u011b\u0159oval jsem). My se nezdr\u017eujeme, po\u010das\u00ed n\u00e1m p\u0159eje,\u00a0vzh\u016fru do hor!<\/p>\n<h3><strong>T\u016fra na Petros (2020 m)\u00a0a Hoverlu (2061 m)<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_656\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-656\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/sesul.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-656\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/sesul-300x186.jpg\" alt=\"sesul\" width=\"300\" height=\"186\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/sesul-300x186.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/sesul.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-656\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vrchol \u0160e\u0161ul p\u0159i t\u016f\u0159e na Petros.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>\u010cerven\u00e1 turistick\u00e1 stezka, kterou m\u00e1me nam\u00ed\u0159eno, kop\u00edruje p\u016fvodn\u00ed tzv. Jubilejn\u00ed turistickou\u00a0stezku vyzna\u010denou Klubem \u010ceskoslovensk\u00fdch turist\u016f v roce 1928. Za 1. \u010cSR tato hlavn\u00ed turistick\u00e1 cesta vedla p\u0159es celou Podkarpatskou Rus a m\u011b\u0159ila tak\u0159ka 350 km, dnes se postupn\u011b znovu obnovuje.<\/p>\n<p>Za mostem p\u0159es Tisu\u00a0podch\u00e1z\u00edme \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed viadukt, proch\u00e1z\u00edme kolem rozestav\u011bn\u00e9 turb\u00e1zi z 80. let, kter\u00e1 u\u017e nikdy dokon\u010den\u00e1 nebude, a m\u00edj\u00edme chatku m\u00edstn\u00ed Str\u00e1\u017ee p\u0159\u00edrody. V sezon\u011b se zde plat\u00ed symbolick\u00fd poplatek za vstup do hor, dnes tu je\u0161t\u011b nikdo nen\u00ed. Cesta za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 dost strm\u011b stoupat kolem posledn\u00edch domk\u016f a po chv\u00edli se dr\u00e1peme do kopce\u00a0bukov\u00fdm h\u00e1jem.\u00a0Listy za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1j\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b pu\u010det. Po\u010das\u00ed je slune\u010dn\u00e9 a tepl\u00e9, pot\u00edm se jak dve\u0159e od chl\u00edva. Na\u00a0pastvin\u011b zvan\u00e9 D\u017eord\u017eeva Preluka (1150 m) se n\u00e1m otev\u00edraj\u00ed prvn\u00ed pohledy na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed masiv <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00021.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Bliznice<\/a>. Nad touto poloninou vch\u00e1z\u00edme op\u011bt do bukov\u00e9ho h\u00e1je a cesta se narovn\u00e1v\u00e1. Asi po 1,5 km p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme na poloninu Men\u010dul a odtud vid\u00edme Kopycju (1689 m)\u00a0a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00023.htm\" target=\"_blank\">\u0160e\u0161ul<\/a>\u00a0(1728 m). Proch\u00e1z\u00edme kolem ruin\u00a0prvorepublikov\u00e9 st\u00e1tn\u00ed s\u00fdr\u00e1rny, u kter\u00e9 m\u00e1 postaven\u00e9 stany skupinka ukrajinsk\u00fdch turist\u016f. My pokra\u010dujeme je\u0161t\u011b kousek d\u00e1l a traverzujeme severn\u00ed str\u00e1n\u011b \u0160e\u0161ulu.\u00a0Jeliko\u017e\u00a0na t\u00e9to stran\u011b kopce jsou ob\u010das vid\u011bt zbytky sn\u011bhu, tak je cesta pom\u011brn\u011b dost podm\u00e1\u010den\u00e1.\u00a0Ale\u00a0sand\u00e1le u\u017e m\u011bnit za pohory nebudu.\u00a0Kolem 19. h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k\u00a0vhodn\u00e9mu m\u00edstu k t\u00e1bo\u0159en\u00ed\u00a0– p\u011bkn\u00e1 lou\u010dka poset\u00e1 krokusy, je tu p\u00e1r ohni\u0161\u0165 a p\u0159\u00edst\u0159e\u0161ek. Stav\u00edme stan a zapalujeme <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00030.htm\" target=\"_blank\">past\u00fd\u0159sk\u00fd oh\u00fdnek<\/a>. Po z\u00e1padu se v\u00fdrazn\u011b ochlazuje, p\u0159eci jen jsme ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 1550 m.<\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no n\u00e1s v\u00edt\u00e1 op\u011bt hezk\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme po 9. h. Dnes n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 dlouh\u00e1 t\u016fra, chceme d\u00e1t Petros (2020 m) a Hoverlu (2061 m) a sp\u00e1t na h\u0159ebenu pod nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ukrajinskou horou. Cesta m\u00edrn\u011b stoup\u00e1 a za\u0159ez\u00e1v\u00e1 se do severn\u00edch sr\u00e1z\u016f \u0160e\u0161ulu. Po chv\u00edli tvo\u0159\u00ed na polonin\u011b \u0160umnieska dlouhou pravoto\u010divou serpent\u00ednu, kterou si zkracujeme p\u0159\u00edm\u00fdm v\u00fd\u0161vihem p\u011b\u0161inkou vzh\u016fru a najednou se n\u00e1m otev\u00edr\u00e1 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00037.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Petros a za n\u00edm vykukuje Hoverla<\/a>. Cestu na Petros odhaduji na hodinu a kousek. Z\u00a0t\u00e9to (z\u00e1padn\u00ed) strany\u00a0je v\u00fdstup nejpohodln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a jde o m\u00edrn\u00e9 t\u00e1hl\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed. Ov\u0161em Hoverla se odtud zd\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b dost daleko. P\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00edme posledn\u00ed sn\u011bhov\u00e1 pol\u00ed\u010dka, Zuzka \u0159e\u0161\u00ed prvn\u00ed <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00039.htm\" target=\"_blank\">puch\u00fd\u0159e<\/a>\u00a0(10:15 h), mezi tr\u00e1vou vykukuj\u00ed <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00040.htm\" target=\"_blank\">krokusy<\/a>. Za z\u00e1dy m\u00e1me \u0160e\u0161ul. Pod vrcholem m\u00edj\u00edme po\u010detnou skupinu ukrajinsk\u00fdch turist\u016f. Posledn\u00edch 100 m p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b rychle ut\u00edk\u00e1 a po 12. h stoj\u00edme na <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00055.htm\" target=\"_blank\">vrcholu Petrose (2020 m)<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_663\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-663\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/petros.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-663\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/petros-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"petros\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/petros-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/petros.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-663\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Petros.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy k severu na Jasini, na na\u0161i dosud zvl\u00e1dnutou trasu k \u0160e\u0161ulu ale jednozna\u010dn\u011b nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pecka je pohled na <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00058.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Hoverlu a d\u00e1le cel\u00fd h\u0159eben \u010cern\u00e9 hory a\u017e po Pop Ivan<\/a>\u00a0(za 1. \u010cSR nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed bod zem\u011b). Petros a Hoverlu odd\u011bluje 500 m hlubok\u00e9 sedlo, z Hoverly pokra\u010duje h\u0159ebenovka\u00a0u\u017e velmi p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u011b a neztr\u00e1c\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161ku (st\u00e1le se jde v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 1800 \u2013 2000 m). Sestup z Petrose na v\u00fdchod je daleko prud\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e co jsme my dupali nahoru. V protism\u011bru potk\u00e1v\u00e1me spousty turist\u016f. Na polonin\u011b Skopeska (1545 m) si d\u00e1v\u00e1me ob\u011bd, je tu kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 t\u00e1bo\u0159i\u0161t\u011b a parta ukrajinc\u016f tu tak\u00e9 hoduje. Cesta odtud vede tak\u0159ka po vrstevnici smrkov\u00fdm h\u00e1jem.\u00a0Jeliko\u017e je to ve st\u00ednu,\u00a0dr\u017e\u00ed se tu zbytky sn\u011bhu,\u00a0bo\u0159\u00edme se a postup je nam\u00e1hav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Tu a tam vykoukne <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00069.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Hoverla<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>V sedle Peremy\u010dka (1537 m, 15:30 h) nab\u00edr\u00e1me vodu (d\u0159even\u00e1 stud\u00e1nka 150 m p\u0159ed rozcest\u00edm). Kempuje tu p\u00e1r Ukrajinc\u016f. Odtud ji\u017e stoup\u00e1me nejprve lesem po sn\u011bhu, pozd\u011bji ji\u017e suchou nohou mezi kle\u010demi. V 16:45 h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme na rozcest\u00ed Pod Hoverlou. Slun\u00ed se tu p\u00e1r turist\u016f. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00074.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Hoverla<\/a>\u00a0vypad\u00e1 z tohoto m\u00edsta jako sp\u00edc\u00ed dinosaurus a v\u00fdstupov\u00e1 trasa vede po jeho h\u0159bet\u011b. Na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholu Ukrajiny jsme v 17:30 h a spolu s n\u00e1mi kvanta Ukrajinc\u016f. P\u016fl hodiny si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me pocity z dobr\u00e9 t\u016fry \u2013 oba dne\u0161n\u00ed c\u00edle \u2013 Petros i Hoverla spln\u011bny. M\u00e1me toho tak akor\u00e1t. Rozhodujeme se, \u017ee k p\u016fvodn\u011b pl\u00e1novan\u00e9mu m\u00edstu pro dne\u0161n\u00ed bivak \u2013 N\u011bsamovit\u00e9mu jezero pod Turkulem (1933 m) \u2013 je to je\u0161t\u011b dost daleko. Rad\u011bji zabivakujeme z na\u0161eho pohledu\u00a0v sed\u00e9lku za Breskulem (1911 m). Zna\u010dn\u011b unaveni sb\u00edh\u00e1me z Hoverly. Po tomto h\u0159ebeni vedla hranice mezi 1. \u010cSR a Polskem, co\u017e dosv\u011bd\u010duj\u00ed star\u00e9 hrani\u010dn\u00ed kameny z roku 1920. Funguj\u00ed jako dobr\u00e9 orienta\u010dn\u00ed body, proto\u017ee jsou o\u010d\u00edslov\u00e1ny a \u010d\u00edsla jsou zaneseny v map\u011b. Na vrcholu Breskulu se lou\u010d\u00edme s Hoverlou a v\u0161\u00edm\u00e1m si, \u017ee za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 s\u00edlit v\u00edtr od z\u00e1padu. J\u00e1 u\u017e toho m\u00e1m pln\u00fd brejle, Zuzka je je\u0161t\u011b pou\u017eiteln\u00e1. Mezi Breskulem a Po\u017ei\u017eevskou jsou dv\u011b mal\u00e1 jez\u00edrka od taj\u00edc\u00edho sn\u011bhu. V t\u011bchto m\u00edstech prob\u00edhali za 1. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky tuh\u00e9 boje mezi rakousko-uherskou a ruskou arm\u00e1dou. N\u011bm\u00fdmi sv\u011bdky jsou dodnes viditeln\u00e9 zbytky z\u00e1kop\u016f a vedle jednoho takov\u00e9ho si po 19. h stav\u00edme n\u00e1\u0161 stan. Kv\u016fli v\u011btru\u00a0vol\u00edme m\u00edsto kousek pod h\u0159ebenem, abychom byli aspo\u0148 trochu chr\u00e1n\u011bni. V\u00edtr n\u00e1m nedovoluje uva\u0159it pol\u00e9vku venku, tak <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00086.htm\" target=\"_blank\">va\u0159\u00edme<\/a>\u00a0uvnit\u0159 stanu. Uleh\u00e1me znaveni, ale spokojeni, proto\u017ee dnes to byla kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 a hodnotn\u00e1 t\u016fra.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Dramatick\u00e1 noc na h\u0159ebenu pod Hoverlou<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_657\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-657\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/hoverla.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-657 \" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/hoverla-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"hoverla\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/hoverla-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/hoverla.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-657\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hoverla se star\u00fdm hrani\u010dn\u00edm kamenem odd\u011bluj\u00edc\u00edm \u010cSR od Polska.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Kolem 22. h v mikrosp\u00e1nku vn\u00edm\u00e1m v d\u00e1li bou\u0159ku. Jeliko\u017e mezi blesky a hromy je f\u016fra \u010dasu, tak m\u011b to nech\u00e1v\u00e1 klidn\u00fdm. Zuzka zat\u00edm sp\u00ed. Za necelou p\u016flhodinku u\u017e nesp\u00ed a j\u00e1 u\u017e v\u016fbec nejsem klidn\u00fd. Bou\u0159ka je p\u0159\u00edmo nad n\u00e1mi, d\u00edky blesk\u016fm v\u00edd\u00edme i uvnit\u0159 stanu pomalu jak ve dne, leje jako z konve a co m\u011b p\u0159ijde nejhor\u0161\u00ed je siln\u00e1 vich\u0159ice. Se Zuzkou se sna\u017e\u00edme dr\u017eet stan, ale moc se n\u00e1m to neda\u0159\u00ed. Asi budu muset pro p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ehodnotit moje celo\u017eivotn\u00ed ignorov\u00e1n\u00ed kol\u00edk\u016f ke stanu. V\u017edy je nech\u00e1v\u00e1m doma, proto\u017ee mi p\u0159ijde, \u017ee je to zcela zbyte\u010dn\u00e1 z\u00e1t\u011b\u017e. V ka\u017ed\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b si n\u00e1\u0161 nep\u0159ikol\u00edkovan\u00fd stan Jurek zasluhuje palec nahoru! Hodinovou bou\u0159ku zvl\u00e1dl i bez kol\u00edk\u016f na jedni\u010dku. O p\u016flnoci je klid po bou\u0159i, dokonce je tak\u0159ka bezv\u011bt\u0159\u00ed a my m\u016f\u017eeme sp\u00e1t. Us\u00edn\u00e1m s dobr\u00fdm pocitem, \u017ee jsme si za\u017eili vzr\u016f\u0161o a r\u00e1no bude ur\u010dit\u011b nebe vymeten\u00e9 a my budeme moci pokra\u010dovat po hlavn\u00edm h\u0159ebeni \u010cern\u00e9 hory na Pop Ivana.<\/p>\n<p>Kolem 2. h rann\u00ed je v\u0161echno jinak. U\u017e op\u011bt nesp\u00edme a dr\u017e\u00edme stan, aby n\u00e1m ho ta vich\u0159ice, co zu\u0159\u00ed venku, neodnesla do \u00fadol\u00ed. Rychlost v\u011btru je je\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e p\u0159i p\u0159edchoz\u00ed bou\u0159ce. Alespo\u0148 \u017ee te\u010f u\u017e neleje a nebou\u0159\u00ed. Po necel\u00e9 hodin\u011b povoluje konstrukce stanu a my jsme doslova a do p\u00edsmene \u201cpod stanem\u201d, za p\u00e1r okam\u017eik\u016f jsme u\u017e p\u0159ikryt\u00ed jen vnit\u0159n\u00edm stanem, proto\u017ee tropiko odn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed vich\u0159ice. Nezb\u00fdv\u00e1 n\u00e1m nic jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e se zavrtat do spac\u00e1k\u016f, vyka\u0161lat se na stan a p\u0159e\u010dkat do sv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed a pak se uvid\u00ed. Zuza celou situaci sn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed\u00a0state\u010dn\u011b a oba dva alespo\u0148 na dv\u011b hodinky us\u00edn\u00e1me do mikrosp\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n<p>Po 5.\u00a0h rann\u00ed\u00a0se rozhodujeme, \u017ee nem\u00e1 cenu tady d\u00e1l le\u017eet. Pokus\u00edme se sbalit v\u0161echny na\u0161e v\u011bci a seb\u011bhnout z h\u0159ebene, proto\u017ee tohle je fakt o hubu. Pokra\u010dovat v p\u0159echodu h\u0159ebene \u010cern\u00e9 hory dle p\u016fvodn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu je zcela nere\u00e1ln\u00e9.\u00a0T\u011bm lidem, kte\u0159\u00ed m\u011b trochu znaj\u00ed nech\u0165 poslou\u017e\u00ed jako d\u016fkaz v\u00e1\u017enosti situace tato brzk\u00e1 hodina vst\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, tohle bych norm\u00e1ln\u011b ned\u011blal <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.zdenda.net\/wp-includes\/images\/smilies\/icon_smile.gif\" alt=\":-)\" \/> \u00a0Balen\u00ed v\u011bc\u00ed v rozbo\u0159en\u00e9m stanu je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 kratochv\u00edle. Fi\u010d\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1d bez p\u0159est\u00e1vky. Kdy\u017e se dostaneme ven ze \u201cstanu\u201d, zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee je nav\u00edc\u00a0mlha jako ml\u00edko, viditelnost 20 metr\u016f. Zcela nepochopiteln\u011b nach\u00e1z\u00edm na\u0161e\u00a0tropiko pl\u00e1polaj\u00edc za\u0161modrchan\u00e9 na zbo\u0159en\u00e9 ty\u010dce od stanu.\u00a0Vrac\u00edme se na cestu a ve vich\u0159ici jdeme zp\u00e1tky p\u0159es Breskul pod Hoverlu, proto\u017ee\u00a0podle mapy by tam m\u011bla b\u00fdt p\u011b\u0161inka dol\u016f a m\u011bli bysme se tudy dostat a\u017e do\u00a0vesnice Luhy. P\u011b\u0161inku nach\u00e1z\u00edme a u\u017e p\u00e1r des\u00edtek metr\u016f pod h\u0159ebenem je vich\u0159ice daleko snesiteln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, mlha po\u0159\u00e1d stejn\u00e1. Po chv\u00edli ztr\u00e1c\u00edme cestu ve sn\u011bhov\u00e9m poli a v kle\u010d\u00edch. Moc dlouho jsme si dobr\u00e9 cesty neu\u017eili.<\/p>\n<p>Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me bloudit a\u00a0bo\u0159\u00edme se v mokr\u00e9m sn\u011bhu. Podle mapy mus\u00edme d\u0159\u00edv nebo pozd\u011bji (z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed jak to tref\u00edme) narazit na cestu vedouc\u00ed z vesnice Luhy pod Hoverlu. Tam u\u017e budeme m\u00edt vyhr\u00e1no. Sestupujeme pod\u00e9l pot\u016f\u010dku s logikou, \u017ee n\u00e1s zavede na cestu. Dle mapy by to m\u011bla b\u00fdt pravda, ale jsou tu dv\u011b koryta. P\u0159i pohledu dol\u016f bychom pot\u0159ebovali b\u00fdt u toho prav\u00e9ho, proto\u017ee pod\u00e9l n\u011bj je turistick\u00e1 cesta bl\u00ed\u017ee, asi 500 m. Pokud jsme natrefili na ten lev\u00fd potok, tak n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 poctiv\u00fd boj v prav\u00e9m nefal\u0161ovan\u00e9m karpatsk\u00e9m pralese v d\u00e9lce asi 5 km.<\/p>\n<p>Zkuste h\u00e1dat, pod\u00e9l jak\u00e9ho potoku sestupujeme\u2026 samoz\u0159ejm\u011b, \u017ee pod\u00e9l lev\u00e9ho <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.zdenda.net\/wp-includes\/images\/smilies\/icon_smile.gif\" alt=\":-)\" \/>\u00a0 Te\u010f s odstupem je to legra\u010dn\u00ed vzpom\u00ednka, ale na m\u00edst\u011b to takov\u00e1 pr\u010da nebyla. Kolem 1600 m kone\u010dn\u011b skon\u010dil sn\u00edh a bo\u0159en\u00ed v n\u011bm. Postup pralesem byl ale i tak pomal\u00fd a dost vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed. P\u0159ed 9. h se nad n\u00e1mi trh\u00e1 obloha a hned je veseleji. Slunce dod\u00e1v\u00e1 optimismus. Potok u\u017e se d\u00e1vno zm\u011bnil v \u0159\u00ed\u010dku a jej\u00ed p\u0159eskakov\u00e1n\u00ed na ter\u00e9nn\u011b p\u0159\u00edzniv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed b\u0159eh se st\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l t\u00edm komplikovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Nakonec doch\u00e1z\u00ed i na brod\u011bn\u00ed a procvi\u010dujeme si i ch\u016fzi po kladin\u011b na n\u011bkolika kmenech p\u0159es \u0159eku. Kone\u010dn\u011b\u00a0po 10. h p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme na d\u0159eva\u0159skou cestu, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1s dov\u00e1d\u00ed na tu spr\u00e1vnou turistickou, vedouc\u00ed a\u017e do vesnice Luhy. V karpatsk\u00e9m pralese jsme si po probd\u011bl\u00e9 noci u\u017eili tak\u0159ka p\u011btihodinov\u00fd boj. Kolem 13. h\u00a0sch\u00e1z\u00edme\u00a0do vesnice a m\u00e1me opravdu velkou radost. V hor\u00e1ch se mraky dr\u017e\u00ed, ale tady dole\u00a0sv\u00edt\u00ed slunce\u00a0a v\u0161e se obrac\u00ed zase na spr\u00e1vnou stranu. Ve vesnici p\u0159ed obchodem za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me su\u0161it na\u0161e promo\u010den\u00e9 v\u011bci, d\u00e1v\u00e1me si pivko a s radost\u00ed zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee n\u00e1m za 40 minut jede autobus do dvacet kilometr\u016f vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho Rachova! To m\u00e1me kliku! V Rachov\u011b se ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me v ji\u017e prov\u011b\u0159en\u00e9m hotelu Olenka, proto\u017ee dnes si ten luxus zaslou\u017e\u00edme <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.zdenda.net\/wp-includes\/images\/smilies\/icon_smile.gif\" alt=\":-)\" \/>\u00a0 Ve\u010der si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me proch\u00e1zkou po m\u011bst\u011b a\u00a0v m\u00edstn\u00edch hospod\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Jasi\u0148a a poloniny pod Jablunick\u00fdm pr\u016fsmykem<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_659\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-659\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/jasina.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-659\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/jasina-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"jasina\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/jasina-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/jasina.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-659\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Poloniny nad Jasin\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed den odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z Rachova autobusem do Jasin\u011b, co\u017e byla nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed rychl\u00edkov\u00e1 stanice 1. \u010cSR a dosud je centrem Hucul\u016f (etnikum v r\u00e1mci n\u00e1roda Rus\u00edn\u016f, v roce 1919 zde byla\u00a0na p\u00e1r m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f vyhl\u00e1\u0161ena tzv. Huculsk\u00e1 republika). Jasi\u0148a m\u00e1 asi 8 000 obyvatel a na rozd\u00edl od Rachova m\u00e1 vesnickou z\u00e1stavbu. Centrum je sp\u00ed\u0161e n\u00e1vs\u00ed ne\u017e n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00edm. Ve st\u0159edu je autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a pod\u00e9l hlavn\u00ed silnice p\u00e1r obchod\u016f a hospod, p\u0159es \u0159eku Tisu (5 minut ch\u016fze) stoj\u00ed nejstar\u0161\u00ed turb\u00e1za (turistick\u00e1 ubytovna) na Podkarpatsk\u00e9 Rusi\u00a0– <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00106.htm\" target=\"_blank\">turb\u00e1za Edelvajs<\/a>, kde se ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me (120 Hr\/double room). Mezi l\u00e9ty 1738\u00a0 a 1745 v okol\u00ed Jasin\u011b p\u016fsobil slavn\u00fd zbojn\u00edk Oleksa Dovbu\u0161, p\u0159edch\u016fdce Nikoly \u0160uhaje z Kolo\u010davy.<\/p>\n<p>Dne\u0161n\u00edm c\u00edlem je proch\u00e1zka do <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00126.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Jablunick\u00e9ho pr\u016fsmyku<\/a>, asi 9 km z Jasin\u011b po polonin\u00e1ch (=horsk\u00fdch louk\u00e1ch a pastvin\u00e1ch).\u00a0T\u00edmto strategick\u00fdm sedlem proch\u00e1z\u00ed hlavn\u00ed tah U\u017ehorod –\u00a0Jasi\u0148a \u2013 Ivano-Frankovsk a v 1. sv. v\u00e1lce zde prob\u00edhaly krut\u00e9 boje mezi rakousko-uherskou a ruskou arm\u00e1dou.\u00a0Dnes zde proch\u00e1z\u00ed hranice mezi Zakarpatskou a Ivano-frankovskou oblast\u00ed. Po\u010das\u00ed je dobr\u00e9, ale v hor\u00e1ch se dr\u017e\u00ed obla\u010dnost a\u00a0dominanty Petros a Hoverlu zprvu jen tu\u0161\u00edme v mrac\u00edch. A\u017e po poledni se n\u00e1m na chv\u00edli uk\u00e1\u017e\u00ed v cel\u00e9 sv\u00e9 kr\u00e1se. Cel\u00fd v\u00fdlet se n\u00e1m nab\u00edzej\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e9\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00122.htm\" target=\"_blank\">v\u00fdhledy<\/a>\u00a0jak na masiv \u010cern\u00e9 hory na jihu tak\u00a0na poloninu Bratkivskou na severoz\u00e1pad\u011b. V pr\u016fsmyku vl\u00e1dne pom\u011brn\u011b chaotick\u00e1 v\u00fdstavba horsk\u00fdch chat. Bohu\u017eel je ned\u011ble a nen\u00ed kde si d\u00e1t pivko, v\u0161ude je zav\u0159eno. M\u00e1me \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, proto\u017ee z pr\u016fsmyku chyt\u00e1me autobus zp\u00e1tky do Jasin\u011b. V pozdn\u00edm odpoledni se jdeme proj\u00edt k jasi\u0148sk\u00e9 atrakci \u2013 <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/img00135.htm\" target=\"_blank\">d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9mu kostel\u00edku<\/a>\u00a0Strukivsk\u00e9 cerkve. Ve\u010der si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me\u00a0dobr\u00e9 v\u00edno Chardonnay z Od\u011bssk\u00e9 oblasti\u00a0v baru na hlavn\u00ed silnici, hrajeme d\u00e1mu a pak jdeme sp\u00e1t do na\u0161eho pokoje v turb\u00e1ze Edelvajs.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Muka\u010devo a U\u017ehorod<\/strong><\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_661\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-661\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/mukacevo.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-661\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/mukacevo-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"mukacevo\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/mukacevo-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/mukacevo.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-661\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Muka\u010devsk\u00fd hrad Palanok.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>R\u00e1no v 9:50 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme autobusem do Bu\u0161tiny. Podle mapy by odtud mohly jezdit spoje do Kolo\u010davy. Je pond\u011bl\u00ed a n\u00e1\u0161 vlak z Michalovc\u016f odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed a\u017e ve st\u0159edu v 20:00 h, tak\u017ee \u010dasu m\u00e1me je\u0161t\u011b dost. Kousek za Rachovem je u silnice atrakce \u2013 jeden z geografick\u00fdch st\u0159ed\u016f Evropy. Autobus je narvan\u00fd a jsme r\u00e1di, kdy\u017e po 2,5 h j\u00edzdy vystupujeme do letn\u00edho po\u010das\u00ed v Bu\u0161tin\u011b. Bohu\u017eel dost rychle zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee pan\u00ed, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1m v Jasini prod\u00e1vala l\u00edstky na autobus do t\u00e9to prdele sv\u011bta s t\u00edm, \u017ee odtud do Kolo\u010davy to bude v pohod\u011b, nem\u011bla tak docela pravdu. No, vlastn\u011b pravdu nem\u011bla v\u016fbec. Odtud do Kolo\u010davy se zkr\u00e1tka ur\u010dit\u011b nedostaneme. Po hodin\u011b se n\u00e1m da\u0159\u00ed stopnout mar\u0161rutku do Chustu (14:30 h), odkud u\u017e zaru\u010den\u011b spoje do Kolo\u010davy jezd\u00ed. Dal\u0161\u00ed nemil\u00e1 zpr\u00e1va je od pan\u00ed na autobus\u00e1ku v Chustu, \u017ee do Kolo\u010davy jede\u00a0mar\u0161rutka a\u017e z\u00edtra v 8:20 h. U piva v nedalek\u00e9 n\u00e1levn\u011b m\u011bn\u00edme pl\u00e1ny. Kolo\u010davu mus\u00edme nechat na p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b, proto\u017ee z\u00edtra bysme se do p\u016fsobi\u0161t\u011b Nikoly \u0160uhaje dostali v poledne a to je u\u017e dost pozd\u011b.\u00a0Dal\u0161\u00ed den\u00a0mus\u00edme b\u00fdt v\u00a0Michalovc\u00edch a to by smrd\u011blo probl\u00e9my. Z Chustu tedy jedeme do Muka\u010deva (to je hlavn\u00ed tah a spoje tu jezd\u00ed\u00a0a\u017e do ve\u010dera)\u00a0a \u00fater\u00fd a st\u0159edu v\u011bnujeme tomuto m\u011bstu a U\u017ehorodu.<\/p>\n<p>Do Muka\u010deva (asi 60 000 obyvatel) p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme kolem 20. h a vystupujeme na kruhov\u00e9 k\u0159i\u017eovatce u pam\u00e1tn\u00edku tanku osvoboditele (asi 300 m od autobusov\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed). Jdeme sm\u011brem do centra po ulici M\u00edru a po 100 m vid\u00edm nalevo hotel. Za double room chce pan\u00ed 300 Hr, tak se pt\u00e1m, jestli nev\u00ed o n\u011bjak\u00e9m levn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Jde tedy s cenou na 200 Hr a to u\u017e akceptujeme. Pokoj je prostorn\u00fd, \u010dist\u00fd a\u00a0se soc. za\u0159., pro n\u00e1s luxus. Ve\u010der si proch\u00e1z\u00edme p\u011bkn\u00e9 muka\u010devsk\u00e9 centrum \u2013 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed M\u00edru a p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3ny kolem. Ve\u010de\u0159\u00edme v dobr\u00e9 restauraci na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, d\u00e1v\u00e1m si maso po huculsku (vep\u0159ov\u00e1 k\u00fdta, hodn\u011b cibule a uzen\u00e9 maso), moc dobr\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>\u00datern\u00ed dopoledne tr\u00e1v\u00edme prohl\u00eddkou muka\u010devsk\u00e9ho hradu Palanok, odkud je p\u011bkn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na cel\u00e9 m\u011bsto, proto\u017ee stoj\u00ed na kopci 100 m nad m\u011bstem. Odpoledne si proch\u00e1z\u00edme \u010d\u00e1st m\u011bsta le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed na prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu Latorice, ve kter\u00e9 se koupu. Jeliko\u017e v Muka\u010devu m\u00e1me dobr\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed a \u0159e\u0161it hotel v U\u017ehorodu se n\u00e1m nechce, tak p\u0159esp\u00edme je\u0161t\u011b jednu noc zde.<\/p>\n<p>Do U\u017ehorodu odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ve st\u0159edu v 10:00 h, mar\u0161rutky jezd\u00ed ka\u017edou chv\u00edli. Cesta trv\u00e1 necelou hodinu. Na autobus\u00e1ku kupujeme l\u00edstky (lze platit kartou)\u00a0na autobus do Michalovc\u016f na 14:50 h a jdeme do centra. \u0160koda, \u017ee m\u00e1me na U\u017ehorod m\u00e1lo \u010dasu, proto\u017ee je to \u2013 stejn\u011b jako Muka\u010devo \u2013 moc p\u011bkn\u00e9 m\u011bsto, kde se d\u00e1 naj\u00edt hodn\u011b odkaz\u016f na 1. \u010cSR (budovy \u010desk\u00fdch architekt\u016f, \u010desk\u00e9 n\u00e1pisy na fas\u00e1d\u00e1ch z doby 1. \u010cSR atd.). Na jedn\u00e9 zahr\u00e1dce si d\u00e1v\u00e1me poledn\u00ed menu za 25 Hr (v\u00fdborn\u00fd bor\u0161\u010d a pelmen\u011b), proch\u00e1z\u00edme si p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3nu a pomalu se pakujeme zp\u00e1tky na autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. Harmonik\u00e1\u0159 s betonov\u00fdma u\u0161ima, kter\u00e9mu jsem d\u00e1val p\u0159ed t\u00fddnem pivo, tu st\u00e1le hraje. Lou\u010d\u00edme se s kr\u00e1snou Podkarpatskou Rus\u00ed. Na hranic\u00edch jsou op\u011bt ukrajin\u0161t\u00ed celn\u00edci zcela v pohod\u011b, za to Slov\u00e1ci prud\u00ed, \u0161acuj\u00ed na\u0161e v\u011bci\u00a0a v\u0161e zbyte\u010dn\u011b prodlu\u017euj\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p>V Michalovc\u00edch st\u00edh\u00e1me ve\u010de\u0159i a pivko a v 20:00 h odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme vlakem \u0160\u00edrava\u00a0do Prahy. Hodn\u011b poveden\u00fd v\u00fdlet!<\/p>\n<p>\u010cl\u00e1nek vy\u0161el na port\u00e1lu <a href=\"http:\/\/www.treking.cz\/treky\/goverla-petros.htm\">treking.cz<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Doporu\u010duji:<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.dusekarpat.cz\/ukrajina\/hoverla\/\" target=\"_blank\">O Hoverle na webu Du\u0161e Karpat<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2013_05_01-08-Podkarpatska%20Rus\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>FOTOGALERIE Nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed c\u00edp b\u00fdval\u00e9 1. \u010cSR m\u011b l\u00e1kal u\u017e p\u0159ed 15 lety, kdy jsem si koupil stru\u010dn\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce, ale cestu jsem po\u0159\u00e1d odkl\u00e1dal. \u010cas uzr\u00e1l kone\u010dn\u011b zjara 2013, kdy jsem pl\u00e1noval kam vyrazit na m\u00e1jov\u00e9 sv\u00e1tky. A tak jsme se Zuzkou odjeli ve\u010der na \u010carod\u011bjnice vlakem do Michalovc\u016f a Prvn\u00ed M\u00e1j jsme slavili v U\u017ehorod\u011b. Cesta pod … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Podkarpatsk\u00e1 Rus \u2013 Hoverla 2013<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">→<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-hoverla-2013\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,12],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-3C","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/224"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=224"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/224\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1858,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/224\/revisions\/1858"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=224"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=224"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=224"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}