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{"id":1325,"date":"2014-05-23T19:48:09","date_gmt":"2014-05-23T19:48:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=1325"},"modified":"2016-07-08T08:17:58","modified_gmt":"2016-07-08T08:17:58","slug":"podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/","title":{"rendered":"Podkarpatsk\u00e1 Rus – Svidovec 2014"},"content":{"rendered":"

Aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed kurz (kv\u011bten 2014, p\u0159i v\u00fdb\u011bru z bankomatu, jednor\u00e1zov\u00fd poplatek za v\u00fdb\u011br 100 K\u010d): 1 h\u0159ivna = 1,70 K\u010d.<\/em><\/p>\n

<\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Po roce jsme se op\u011bt rozhodli str\u00e1vit\u00a0za\u010d\u00e1tek kv\u011btna\u00a0na Podkarpatsk\u00e9 Rusi.\u00a0Na v\u00fdchod jak jinak ne\u017e no\u010dn\u00edm vlakem \u0160\u00edrava z Prahy…\u00a0k tomuto zp\u016fsobu teleportace\u00a0se u m\u011b vyvinula u\u017e prav\u00e1 nefal\u0161ovan\u00e1\u00a0l\u00e1ska. Michalovce n\u00e1s p\u0159iv\u00edtaly de\u0161tiv\u00fdm sobotn\u00edm dopolednem 3. kv\u011btna 2014. Z\u00e1hy v\u0161ak mra\u010dna p\u0159e\u0161la d\u00e1le na v\u00fdchod a my se radovali na zahr\u00e1dce u pivka a piro\u017eek.<\/p>\n<p>Ve 14:10 h z Michalovc\u016f busem do U\u017ehorodu. Cesta trv\u00e1 v\u010detn\u011b hrani\u010dn\u00ed kontroly 2 hodiny, k tomu p\u0159ipo\u010d\u00edst 1 h \u010dasov\u00e9ho posunu a v U\u017ehorodu\u00a0na n\u00e1s sv\u00edt\u00ed na hodin\u00e1ch\u00a017:00 h. Rovnou kupuji l\u00edstky do Jasin\u011b na 20. hodinu. Mezi\u010das tr\u00e1v\u00edme progulkou centrem tohoto p\u011bkn\u00e9ho m\u011bsta. Autobus n\u00e1s vyhazuje v Jasini lehce po 2. hodin\u011b rann\u00ed, je po de\u0161ti a pom\u011brn\u011b chladno. Do stanu se n\u00e1m nechce a proto se\u00a0jdeme zeptat na p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed do turb\u00e1zy Edelvajs. Zprvu se mlad\u00e9 ospal\u00e9\u00a0recep\u010dn\u00ed asi moc nezd\u00e1me,\u00a0proto\u017ee se vymlouv\u00e1, \u017ee\u00a0m\u00e1 v\u0161echny pokoje pln\u00e9.\u00a0Zuzka se ale nenech\u00e1v\u00e1 odradit\u00a0a druh\u00fd pokus u\u017e pad\u00e1 na \u00farodnou p\u016fdu. Najednou m\u00e1me hezk\u00fd dvoul\u016f\u017e\u00e1k (50 Hr\/osobu).<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1362\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1362\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/jasina.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1362 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/jasina-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"jasina\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/jasina-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/jasina.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1362\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Perla Jasin\u011b, d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd kostel\u00edk z r. 1824.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Ned\u011ble 4. kv\u011btna.<\/strong> Po\u010das\u00ed p\u0159esn\u011b podle p\u0159edpov\u011bdi –\u00a0ob\u010das sprchne, zima.\u00a0Z\u00a0postele n\u00e1s tedy\u00a0nic net\u00e1hne. Zvl\u00e1d\u00e1me aspo\u0148 okruh kolem Jasin\u011b, centra\u00a0huculsk\u00e9 men\u0161iny na Ukrajin\u011b a\u00a0za 1. \u010cSR nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed rychl\u00edkov\u00e9 stanice na\u0161\u00ed republiky (odtud r\u010den\u00ed <em>„Od Jasin\u011b do A\u0161e, republika je na\u0161e“<\/em>). V l\u00e9k\u00e1rn\u011b kupujeme doporu\u010den\u00e9 s\u00e1dlo z borzuka (jezevce), ukrajinsk\u00e1 medic\u00edna na ka\u0161el a nachlazen\u00ed. Povinnost\u00ed je zdej\u0161\u00ed perla – d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd kostel\u00edk Strukivsk\u00e9 cerkve z roku 1824\u00a0na ji\u017en\u00edm konci vesnice. P\u0159es \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed\u00a0n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00edme na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed h\u0159eb\u00ednek a kopec Kostyrivka (771 m), hezk\u00e9 pohledy na sever na Gorgany a pod n\u00e1mi na kdysi nejv\u00fdchodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vesnici 1. \u010cSR Laze\u0161\u010dinu. Podve\u010der tr\u00e1v\u00edme ve skv\u011bl\u00e9 restauraci Mango. \u010cepovan\u00e9 pivo Obolo\u0148 ned\u011bl\u00e1 ostudu a j\u00eddlo je v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00e9 – nejlep\u0161\u00ed bor\u0161\u010d, pelmen\u011b a maso po huculsku. Ve\u010der degustujeme krymsk\u00e9 v\u00edno ve zdej\u0161\u00ed vin\u00e1rn\u011b. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 situace, v\u00edno vyroben\u00e9 v roce 2013 je\u0161t\u011b na Ukrajin\u011b je nyn\u00ed vlastn\u011b dovozov\u00e9. Sp\u00edme op\u011bt v Edevajsu.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pond\u011bl\u00ed 5. kv\u011btna.<\/strong> Od r\u00e1na to vypad\u00e1 s po\u010das\u00edm v\u00fdrazn\u011b l\u00e9pe, op\u011bt vych\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f po\u010das\u00ed. Je sice chladno, ale obla\u010dnost\u00a0se protrh\u00e1v\u00e1. Chyt\u00e1me mar\u0161rutku do Kvas\u016f a v 10 hodin si to u\u017e \u0161n\u011brujeme z \u010d\u00e1sti obce Trostjanec (550 m)\u00a0vzh\u016fru po \u010derven\u011b zna\u010den\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 zna\u010dce (za 1. \u010cSR tzv. Jubilejn\u00ed stezce) na hlavn\u00ed h\u0159eben poloniny Svidovec. To u\u017e slunce sv\u00edt\u00ed na pln\u00fd koule.\u00a0V poledne jsme na polonin\u011b Braivka (1200 m). Tady kon\u010d\u00ed p\u00e1smo lesa a n\u00e1s u\u017e \u010dek\u00e1 pouze prav\u00e1 poloninsk\u00e1 t\u016fra.<\/p>\n<p>Stoup\u00e1me kolem bo\u017e\u00edch muk a s n\u00e1mi n\u011bkolik ukrajinsk\u00fdch turist\u016f. Za chv\u00edli m\u00e1me kr\u00e1sn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na n\u00e1\u0161 dne\u0161n\u00ed d\u00edl\u010d\u00ed c\u00edl – nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed horu Svidovce – Bliznicu. Jej\u00ed masiv tvo\u0159\u00ed t\u0159i vrcholy, kter\u00e9 jsou te\u010f pocukrovan\u00e9 n\u00e1mrazou. Oblohu te\u010f zatem\u0148uj\u00ed mraky, p\u0159esto si slunce sem tam proraz\u00ed cestu a v kombinaci s n\u00e1mrazou a k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lov\u011b ostrou\u00a0viditelnost\u00ed je to pastva pro o\u010di. Je tu docela kosa. Petros a Hoverla na v\u00fdchod\u011b, kde jsme \u0161lapali p\u0159ed rokem, jsou pokryt\u00e9 souvislou vrstvou sn\u011bhu.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1364\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1364\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/bliznica.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1364 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/bliznica-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"bliznica\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/bliznica-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/bliznica.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1364\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed hora poloniny Svidovec – Bliznica.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Na Mal\u00e9 Bliznici jsme kolem 13. hodiny, pokra\u010dujeme na Bliznici (1872 m) a p\u0159es sed\u00e9lko kone\u010dn\u011b na Velkou Bliznici (1881 m). Po\u010das\u00ed se tu l\u00e1me a je vid\u011bt, \u017ee n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 na z\u00e1pad\u011b slune\u010dno, zat\u00edmco na v\u00fdchod\u011b budou vl\u00e1dnout mraky.\u00a0Z Bliznice zdoben\u00e9 fantastickou jinovatkou, sestupujeme p\u0159es vyhl\u00eddkov\u00e9 m\u00edsto \u017dandarm (1763 m) do sedla Peremy\u010dka (1560 m). Zde je kone\u010dn\u00e1 stanice vlek\u016f startuj\u00edc\u00edch na\u00a0Dragobratu – ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00e9ho st\u0159ediska, kter\u00e9 je vid\u011bt 200 m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch pod n\u00e1mi. Je 16:30 h a po\u010das\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e9, je\u0161t\u011b m\u016f\u017eeme dlouho pochodovat. To taky budeme muset, proto\u017ee do Us\u0165 \u010corn\u00e9, to je dle ukazatele odtud je\u0161t\u011b dlouh\u00fdch 35,5 km. Mus\u00edme si\u00a0z t\u00e9to porce ukrojit co nejv\u00edc je\u0161t\u011b dnes, aby to z\u00edtra bylo snesiteln\u00e9.\u00a0Po deseti minut\u00e1ch ch\u016fze odtud po \u010derven\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 zna\u010dce m\u00e1me mo\u017enost ve str\u00e1ni hory Stih na\u010depovat vodu. Na\u0161\u00edm c\u00edlem je jezero Geri\u0161aska, u kter\u00e9ho chceme postavit stan. Od Peremy\u010dky je to je\u0161t\u011b necel\u00fdch\u00a010 km, tak\u017ee dnes to bude poctiv\u00e1 tak\u0159ka 30-ti km t\u016fra.<\/p>\n<p>Stan stav\u00edme v 18:30 h p\u016fl kilometru od jezera 100 m pod h\u0159ebenem. St\u00edh\u00e1me posledn\u00ed slune\u010dn\u00ed paprsky. S p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edm st\u00ednem rapidn\u011b kles\u00e1 teplota. K jezeru p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed po\u010detn\u00e1 skupinka ukrajinsk\u00fdch turist\u016f, ti u\u017e stav\u00ed stany ve st\u00ednu a tedy i v \u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 zim\u011b. Ze stanu pozorujeme magickou Bliznici a va\u0159\u00edme si pol\u00e9vku. Noc je zcela bez v\u011btru a hv\u011bzdn\u00e1, teplota pod nulou.<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00dater\u00fd 6. kv\u011btna.<\/strong> R\u00e1no n\u00e1s v\u00edt\u00e1 naprosto vymeten\u00e1 obloha. Bal\u00edme stan a v\u011bci a stoup\u00e1me zp\u00e1tky na h\u0159eben a na vrchol Geri\u0161asky p\u0159\u00edmo nad jezerem. Odtud vid\u00edme skoro celou dne\u0161n\u00ed t\u016fru a\u017e na posledn\u00ed vrchol, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 – vrchol Tempy na konci hlavn\u00edho h\u0159ebene. Je to \u0161treka, ale po\u010das\u00ed slibuje kr\u00e1sn\u00fd v\u00fdlet. Sb\u00edh\u00e1me na rozcest\u00ed Trojaska, odkud pokra\u010dujeme st\u00e1le po \u010derven\u00e9 po hlavn\u00ed h\u0159ebeni. Druh\u00e1 mo\u017enost je j\u00edt odtud na sever do tajemn\u00fdch hor Gorgan po modr\u00e9 a\u017e do Bystrice. Na Temp\u011b stoj\u00edme v 14:30 h a u\u017e n\u00e1m doch\u00e1z\u00ed, \u017ee to je\u0161t\u011b nebude \u00fapln\u011b zadarmo. Ukazatel \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee do Us\u0165-\u010corn\u00e9 je to je\u0161t\u011b dlouh\u00fdch 14 km a pohled na\u0161\u00edm sm\u011brem nazna\u010duje, \u017ee to \u010dist\u011b jen z kopce je\u0161t\u011b zdaleka nebude.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1365\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1365\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/stan.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1365 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/stan-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"stan\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/stan-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/stan.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1365\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">N\u00e1\u0161 stan u jezera Geri\u0161aska.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Pod Stohami lehce ob\u011bdv\u00e1me a fi\u010d\u00edme d\u00e1l. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm bukov\u00fdm h\u00e1jem a za chv\u00edli u\u017e op\u011bt stoup\u00e1me na poloninu Men\u010dul. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r stoup\u00e1n\u00ed na cest\u011b prost\u011b je. S p\u0159ib\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00edm \u010dasem toho m\u00e1m u\u017e pom\u011brn\u011b dost. Z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fd pad\u00e1k do vesnice po\u0159\u00e1d ne a ne p\u0159ij\u00edt. K tomu m\u00e1me \u017e\u00edze\u0148 jako prase a voda nikde. Ps\u00ed \u0161t\u011bkot je sly\u0161et hodn\u011b daleko p\u0159ed samotnou vesnic\u00ed a u\u017e m\u011b to docela irituje \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>V 18:30 h kone\u010dn\u011b sed\u00edme na tr\u00e1vn\u00edku v Us\u0165-\u010corn\u00e9. Hned na za\u010d\u00e1tku vesnice se v prvn\u00ed nal\u00e9v\u00e1rn\u011b domlouv\u00e1me na ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v priv\u00e1tu za 70 Hr\/osobu. Po zkulturn\u011bn\u00ed jdeme do centra vesnice do baru U Ta\u0165\u00e1ny na zaslou\u017eenou ve\u010de\u0159i. V\u0161em v\u0159ele doporu\u010duji, dv\u011b mil\u00e9 \u017een\u0161tiny\u00a0ud\u011blaj\u00ed pro z\u00e1kazn\u00edka v\u0161e. V na\u0161em p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b to byl skv\u011bl\u00fd bor\u0161\u010d, pelmen\u011b a pivko. Po dne\u0161n\u00ed n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 t\u016f\u0159e se na velkou pa\u0159bu nec\u00edt\u00edme a jdeme brzy sp\u00e1t.<\/p>\n<p><strong>St\u0159eda 7. kv\u011btna.<\/strong>\u00a0Sn\u00edd\u00e1me U Ta\u0165\u00e1ny, naproti v jednom baru otev\u00edr\u00e1me kr\u00e1sn\u00fd slune\u010dn\u00ed den rann\u00edm pivkem. Dnes je to dokonce na kra\u0165asy! Us\u0165 \u010corn\u00e1 nezap\u0159e sv\u00e9 n\u011bmeck\u00e9 zakladatele (stejn\u011b jako dal\u0161\u00ed vesnice d\u00e1le v \u00fadol\u00ed T\u011bresvy – Rusk\u00e1 a N\u011bmeck\u00e1 Mokr\u00e1). Upravenost\u00ed a architekturou je to jinde ne\u017e m\u00edstn\u00ed slovansk\u00e1 s\u00eddla. Toto zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed genius loci tu je c\u00edtit na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku, pro m\u011b jednozna\u010dn\u011b zat\u00edm jedno z nejinteresantn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u00edst na Podkarpatsk\u00e9 Rusi.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1366\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1366\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/nemecka_mokra.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1366 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/nemecka_mokra-300x214.jpg\" alt=\"nemecka_mokra\" width=\"300\" height=\"214\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/nemecka_mokra-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/nemecka_mokra.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1366\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">N\u011bmeck\u00e1 Mokr\u00e1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dnes m\u00e1me v pl\u00e1nu asi\u00a025-ti kilometrov\u00fd pochod p\u0159es Ruskou a N\u011bmeckou Mokrou do sedla Prislop a d\u00e1le do Kolo\u010davy. P\u0159ed polednem se kone\u010dn\u011b vykop\u00e1v\u00e1me. Ob\u011b „Mokr\u00e9“ jsou typick\u00e9 silnicovky – dlouh\u00e9 vesnice pod\u00e9l hlavn\u00ed cesty \u00fadol\u00edm. V m\u00edstn\u00edch n\u00e1levn\u00e1ch osv\u011b\u017eujeme sv\u00e1 hrdla a na konci N\u011bmeck\u00e9 Mokr\u00e9 se s n\u00e1mi d\u00e1v\u00e1 do \u0159e\u010di b\u00fdval\u00fd major sov\u011btsk\u00e9 arm\u00e1dy. Neskr\u00fdv\u00e1 smutek ze sou\u010dasn\u00e9 politick\u00e9 situace na Ukrajin\u011b, kdy se tato velk\u00e1 zem\u011b drob\u00ed. Major m\u00e1 v\u0161ak p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi n\u00e1skok minim\u00e1ln\u011b jedn\u00e9 fla\u0161ky vodky, tak komunikace trochu v\u00e1zne.<\/p>\n<p>Hned za N\u011bmeckou Mokrou odbo\u010dujeme p\u0159es \u0159\u00ed\u010dku T\u011bresvu po most\u011b doleva a po \u017elut\u00e9 stoup\u00e1me do sedla Prislop. M\u00e1me velkou kliku, \u017ee tu je sucho, proto\u017ee jinak bychom se zde topili v bl\u00e1t\u011b. Cesta n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t brod\u00ed potok a v obdob\u00ed de\u0161\u0165\u016f to mus\u00ed st\u00e1t za to. V sedle Prislop jsme kolem 16. hodiny. Stanuje tu p\u00e1r m\u00edstn\u00edch turist\u016f, vybrali si kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 klidn\u00e9 m\u00edsto – fam\u00f3zn\u00ed v\u00fdhledy na jih na poloninu Kr\u00e1sna a na sever na vrchol Strimba.<\/p>\n<p>Odtud u\u017e vid\u00edme prvn\u00ed domky rozlehl\u00e9 Kolo\u010davy, ale do st\u0159edu vesnice to je je\u0161t\u011b dlouh\u00fdch 11 km. Na rozd\u00edl od v\u010derej\u0161ka na Temp\u011b to je opravdu u\u017e jen z kopce dol\u016f. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed vol\u00edme v profl\u00e1kl\u00e9 \u010cetnick\u00e9 Stanici za 80 Hr\/osobu. Pozd\u011bji jsem se dal do \u0159e\u010di s dv\u011bma b\u00e1bu\u0161kami p\u0159\u00edmo naproti \u010cetnick\u00e9 Stanici, kter\u00e9 nab\u00edzej\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed za polovinu (na domc\u00edch cedule „Levn\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed“). To bude moje volba p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b, kr\u00e1sn\u011b se s nimi pov\u00eddalo. \u010cetnickou Stanici provozuje obchodn\u011b velmi schopn\u00e1 Nat\u00e1lka a je dobr\u00e9, \u017ee tady tahle „jistota“ je. Ve\u010der kvalitn\u011b a jist\u011b zaslou\u017een\u011b kal\u00edme.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1367\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1367\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/hrob.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1367 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/hrob-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"hrob\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/hrob-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/hrob.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1367\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hrob Nikoly \u0160uhaje Loupe\u017en\u00edka.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>\u010ctvrtek 8. kv\u011btna.<\/strong>\u00a0Je pod mrakem, sem tam mrhol\u00ed. N\u00e1m to v\u016fbec nevad\u00ed, proto\u017ee po t\u0159ech kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v hor\u00e1ch se chceme v\u011bnovat m\u00edstn\u00ed kultu\u0159e. Prvn\u00ed c\u00edl je jasn\u00fd, jsme v Kolo\u010dav\u011b, tak\u017ee hur\u00e1 k hrobu Nikoly \u0160uhaje Loupe\u017en\u00edka! Na hlavn\u00edm h\u0159bitov\u011b kousek nad n\u00e1vs\u00ed ho po chv\u00edli nal\u00e9z\u00e1me. Nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme muzeum \u010desk\u00e9 a sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u0161koly a skanzen. Sem tam pivko a ve\u010der doch\u00e1z\u00ed na m\u00edstn\u00ed v\u00e1\u017en\u011b ohromn\u011b dobrou vodku. Pa\u0159\u00edme do pozdn\u00edch (nebo brzk\u00fdch?) hodin s lidmi z \u010cT, kte\u0159\u00ed tu pro objektiv to\u010d\u00ed report\u00e1\u017e.<\/p>\n<p><strong>P\u00e1tek a sobota 9. – 10. kv\u011btna.<\/strong> Na p\u00e1tek vych\u00e1z\u00ed Den Osvobozen\u00ed. Brzy r\u00e1no\u00a0n\u00e1s a dal\u0161\u00ed ukrajinsk\u00e9\u00a0turisty h\u00e1z\u00ed\u00a0t\u00fdpek z \u010cetnick\u00e9 stanice\u00a0autem do Chustu. Odtud ji\u017e autobusem do Muka\u010deva, kde jsme po poledni. Bohu\u017eel m\u00edstn\u00ed turb\u00e1za Latorica je zav\u0159en\u00e1 a tak se ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me – stejn\u011b jako minul\u00fd rok – v hotelu Barva kousek od autobus\u00e1ku. Cenu – stejn\u011b jako minul\u00fd rok – ukec\u00e1v\u00e1me z 300 Hr na 200 Hr\/double room.<\/p>\n<p>V sobotu r\u00e1no chyt\u00e1me mar\u0161rutku do U\u017ehorodu hned p\u0159ed na\u0161\u00edm hotelem. V hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Podkarpatsk\u00e9 Rusi – dnes Zakarpatsk\u00e9 oblasti Ukrajiny – jsme p\u0159ed 11. hodinou a m\u00e1me \u010das a\u017e do 16:00 h, kdy n\u00e1m jeden autobus do Michalovc\u016f. B\u00e1gly nech\u00e1v\u00e1me v \u00faschovn\u011b p\u0159\u00edmo na autobusov\u00e9m n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed (8 Hr\/2 batohy) a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme si u\u017e\u00edt U\u017ehorod –\u00a0nejdel\u0161\u00ed lipovou \u00e1lej pod\u00e9l obou b\u0159eh\u016f U\u017ee, hrad, synagogu, prvorepublikovou atmosf\u00e9ru v zapadl\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch s \u010desk\u00fdmi n\u00e1zvy atd.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1368\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1368\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/uzhorod.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1368 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/uzhorod-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"uzhorod\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/uzhorod-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/uzhorod.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1368\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">U\u017ehorod, ulice Ivana Olbrachta.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Slune\u010dn\u00fd podve\u010der v Michalovc\u00edch nab\u00edz\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b definitivn\u00ed te\u010dku za poveden\u00fdm \u00a0v\u00fdletem. A je to dokonal\u00e1 t\u0159e\u0161ni\u010dka na dortu v podob\u011b skv\u011bl\u00e9ho Pilsner Urquell od Master Bartender 2012 (mistr v \u010depov\u00e1n\u00ed Plze\u0148sk\u00e9ho piva) v m\u00edstn\u00ed hospod\u011b U Grolla! V nab\u00eddce neodolateln\u00e1 hladinka, pro baby ml\u00edko nebo z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fd \u0161nyt, v\u0161e p\u0159esn\u011b podle plze\u0148sk\u00fdch norem. Klobouk dol\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Tento \u010dl\u00e1nek vy\u0161el na serveru <a href=\"http:\/\/www.treking.cz\/treky\/svidovec-prechod.htm\" target=\"_blank\">treking.cz<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Doporu\u010duji:<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.dusekarpat.cz\/ukrajina\/svidovec\/\" target=\"_blank\">O Svidovci na webu Du\u0161e Karpat<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/fotky.zdenda.net\/2014_05_03-10-Podkarpatska%20Rus-Svidovec\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>FOTOGALERIE Aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed kurz (kv\u011bten 2014, p\u0159i v\u00fdb\u011bru z bankomatu, jednor\u00e1zov\u00fd poplatek za v\u00fdb\u011br 100 K\u010d): 1 h\u0159ivna = 1,70 K\u010d. Po roce jsme se op\u011bt rozhodli str\u00e1vit\u00a0za\u010d\u00e1tek kv\u011btna\u00a0na Podkarpatsk\u00e9 Rusi.\u00a0Na v\u00fdchod jak jinak ne\u017e no\u010dn\u00edm vlakem \u0160\u00edrava z Prahy…\u00a0k tomuto zp\u016fsobu teleportace\u00a0se u m\u011b vyvinula u\u017e prav\u00e1 nefal\u0161ovan\u00e1\u00a0l\u00e1ska. Michalovce n\u00e1s p\u0159iv\u00edtaly de\u0161tiv\u00fdm sobotn\u00edm dopolednem 3. kv\u011btna 2014. Z\u00e1hy v\u0161ak mra\u010dna … <a href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Podkarpatsk\u00e1 Rus – Svidovec 2014<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">→<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/podkarpatska-rus-polonina-svidovec-2014\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\"><span>WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,12],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-ln","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1325"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1325"}],"version-history":[{"count":42,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1325\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1856,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1325\/revisions\/1856"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1325"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1325"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1325"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}