Warning: Declaration of Jetpack_IXR_Client::query() should be compatible with IXR_Client::query(...$args) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php on line 91

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-content/plugins/jetpack/class.jetpack-ixr-client.php:91) in /data/web/virtuals/82242/virtual/www/domains/zdenda.net/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1831
{"id":245,"date":"2013-10-18T11:57:02","date_gmt":"2013-10-18T11:57:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/?p=245"},"modified":"2013-11-10T18:42:42","modified_gmt":"2013-11-10T18:42:42","slug":"pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/","title":{"rendered":"HUMI OUTDOOR – Pam\u00edr – T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1n – Bagush 2011"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"title_pamir_2011\"$ <\/p>\n

\u010clenov\u00e9:\u00a0Zdenda Bouda, Zuzka Doubkov\u00e1, Radim Robur Friedrich, Jarek Kurpiewski<\/em><\/p>\n

FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/iframe><\/p>\nCeny (l\u00e9to 2011):<\/strong> \nKurz \u2013 l\u00e9to 2011 \n1 \u20ac 6,70-6,90 Somoni \n1 \u20ac 24,30 K\u010d \n1 Somoni 3,60 K\u010d<\/p>\nOrienta\u010dn\u00ed ceny – l\u00e9to 2011 (Somoni\/K\u010d):<\/strong> \nDoprava Du\u0161anbe \u2013 Khorog (1 osoba v ter\u00e9nn\u00edm voze) 250-300 S\/900-1080 K\u010d \nDoprava Khorog \u2013 I\u0161ka\u0161im 35-40 S\/126-144 K\u010d \nOrienta\u010dn\u00ed cena dopravy na Pam\u00edru (1 osoba \/ 1 km) 1 S\/3,60 K\u010d \nPlov (r\u00fd\u017ee, mrkev, maso), Damlama (brambory, zel\u00ed, mrkev, paprika, kopr, hov\u011bz\u00ed) 7-10 S\/25-36 K\u010d \nLagman (v\u00fdvar s nudlemi), \u0161arpo (v\u00fdvar, cibule) 5-8 S\/18-29 K\u010d \nSkopov\u00fd \u0161a\u0161lik, Du\u0161anbe 13 S\/47 K\u010d \nPivo (Baltika 7) 8-10 S\/29-36 K\u010d \n\u010caj 2 S\/7 K\u010d \nUbytov\u00e1n\u00ed v l\u00e1zn\u00edch Aud\u017e, osoba\/noc 30 S\/108 K\u010d \nUbytov\u00e1n\u00ed v hotelu v Aud\u017ei (naproti l\u00e1zn\u00edm), osoba\/noc 35 S\/126 K\u010d \nUbytov\u00e1n\u00ed v Du\u0161anbe v hotelu Vach\u0161, osoba\/noc 60 S\/216 K\u010d \n1 litr benzinu 6,5 S\/23,40 K\u010d<\/p>\n3. 8. 2011 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nOdlet v 11:55h z Prahy, v Istanbulu ve 14:30h. V 17:30h se setk\u00e1v\u00e1me s Jarkem, kter\u00fd p\u0159ilet\u011bl z Var\u0161avy. Ve 20:45h odlet do Du\u0161anbe. Turkish Airlines chv\u00e1l\u00edme za super j\u00eddlo.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_534\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-534\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-534 \" alt=\"1\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/1.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-534\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pamir Highway z Du\u0161anbe do Khorogu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n4. 8. 2011 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nVe 3:20h p\u0159\u00edlet do Du\u0161anbe. V\u0161echny zavazadla dorazila \u2013 prvn\u00ed \u00fasp\u011bch! P\u0159ed leti\u0161t\u011bm hromada lid\u00ed, co nab\u00edzej\u00ed odvoz kamkoliv. My jedeme taxikem na du\u0161anbejskou autostanici (z leti\u0161t\u011b do 10minut j\u00edzdy), odkud ka\u017ed\u00fd den r\u00e1no vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed auta do cel\u00e9ho T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1nu. Je je\u0161t\u011b tma (4:30h r\u00e1no). J\u00e1 s Roburem a na\u0161\u00edm taxik\u00e1\u0159em jedeme do m\u011bsta na trh koupit zeleninu, Zuzka s Jarkem \u010dekaj\u00ed na autostanici u na\u0161ich v\u011bc\u00ed. Snaha sehnat plynovou bombu na va\u0159i\u010d se uk\u00e1zala marn\u00e1, \u0159idi\u010d nepochopil co chceme (my o koze, on o voze) a akor\u00e1t jsme najezdili x km zbyte\u010dn\u011b. Na autostanici se vrac\u00edme u\u017e za sv\u011btla, lehce p\u0159ed 7:00h. U\u017e je tu \u010dil\u00fd ruch a jednotliv\u00fd \u0159idi\u010di se p\u0159edh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed v nab\u00eddk\u00e1ch. Nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed nab\u00eddka na cestu do Khorogu zn\u00ed 180 S\/osobu, co\u017e je hodn\u011b podez\u0159el\u00e9. Ceny se pohybuj\u00ed mezi 200-300 S\/osobu. Nakonec bereme nab\u00eddku 300 S a\u017e do Garmchashmy (l\u00e1zn\u011b asi 40km za Khorogem). \u0158idi\u010d vypad\u00e1 seri\u00f3zn\u011b (co\u017e se pozd\u011bji potvrdilo), auto taky a jedeme jen v \u0161esti lidech+\u0159idi\u010d (tzn. \u017ee na zadn\u00ed \u201efale\u0161n\u00e9\u201c seda\u010dce sed\u00edme pouze ve dvou, co\u017e je OK). Vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 7:15h, krom\u011b n\u00e1s \u010dty\u0159ech s n\u00e1mi jedou je\u0161t\u011b dva T\u00e1d\u017eici (jeden se vrac\u00ed dom\u016f po 9ti letech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v Moskv\u011b).<\/p>\nJedeme p\u0159es pr\u016fsmyk Khaburabot (3200m), tzn. hlavn\u00ed cestou (nikoliv ji\u017en\u00ed variantou p\u0159es Kulab). Do Khorogu je to lehce p\u0159es 600 km, do Garmchashmy cca 640 km. Dvakr\u00e1t stav\u00edme na j\u00eddlo, n\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d a jeden spolucestuj\u00edc\u00ed dodr\u017euj\u00ed ramad\u00e1n, tud\u00ed\u017e p\u0159es den nej\u00ed. U \u0159eky Pjand\u017e kousek za Kula-i-Khumb jsme p\u00edchly pneumatiku, b\u011bhem opravy se koupeme v Pjand\u017ei. V Garmchashm\u011b jsme v 3:00h r\u00e1no, sp\u00edme p\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159ed vchodem do l\u00e1zn\u00ed pod \u0161ir\u00e1kem.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_536\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-536\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-536\" alt=\"2\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-536\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ki\u0161lak Bagush.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n5. 8. 2011 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no se koupeme v l\u00e1ze\u0148sk\u00fdch baz\u00e9nech, voda kolem 40\u00b0C, par\u00e1da. Bez probl\u00e9m\u016f jsme na\u0161li \u0159idi\u010de, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s odveze do Bagushe \u2013 horsk\u00fd ki\u0161lak (vesnice) asi 40 km odtud, cena 100 S za n\u00e1s \u010dty\u0159i. Bagush je konec sv\u011bta, malink\u00e1 pasteveck\u00e1 vesni\u010dka 2850m n. m. a pro n\u00e1s za\u010d\u00e1tek t\u016fry. Kolem 8:30h jsme na konci sj\u00edzdn\u00e9 cesty, kus za samotn\u00fdm ki\u0161lakem. D\u00e1l u\u017e to p\u016fjde jen po sv\u00fdch. Po dvou dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch na cest\u00e1ch si pot\u0159ebujeme nejd\u0159\u00edv odpo\u010dinout. V\u00e1l\u00edme se u \u0159eky Dargaure\u0161. Slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed, 38\u00b0C a podle m\u00fdch zku\u0161enost\u00ed z t\u00e9to oblasti z roku 2009 toto po\u010das\u00ed m\u016f\u017eeme \u010dekat den co den. Ve 14:30h vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme do hor. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme Horn\u00ed Bagush (asi t\u0159i pasteveck\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edbytky) a pokra\u010dujeme pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Dargaure\u0161 na JV po pasteveck\u00e9 stezce. Na\u0161e batohy v\u00e1\u017e\u00ed p\u0159es 30 kg, hr\u016fza! V 17:30h jsme kone\u010dn\u011b na soutoku ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3200m, kde jsme si napl\u00e1novali 1. bivak. Se Zuzkou si vyb\u00edr\u00e1me m\u00edsto pro stan v prostoru pasteveck\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edbytku (letovka) p\u0159\u00edmo pod skaln\u00ed st\u011bnou. Kluci p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed asi p\u016fl hodiny po n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_539\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-539\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-539\" alt=\"3\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/3.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-539\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robur p\u0159eskakuje \u0159\u00ed\u010dku Dargaure\u0161.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n6. 8. 2011 Sobota<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no jako prvn\u00ed z party m\u00e1m dokonale \u0159\u00eddk\u00fd pr\u016fjem. Se \u201echcan\u00edm prdel\u00ed\u201c po\u010d\u00edt\u00e1m, to m\u00e1m na podobn\u00fdch akc\u00edch v\u017edy prvn\u00ed dva t\u0159i dny a pak se aklimatizuji, tak\u017ee m\u011b to nech\u00e1v\u00e1 ledov\u011b klidn\u00fdm. R\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme v 10:30h, slunce p\u00e1l\u00ed, 38\u00b0C. Cesta pod\u00e9l \u0159\u00ed\u010dky se st\u00e1v\u00e1 komplikovanou, proto\u017ee pasteveck\u00e1 stezka zmizela. Prod\u00edr\u00e1me se trnit\u00fdm k\u0159ov\u00edm, dolina je \u00fazk\u00e1 a abychom mohli pokra\u010dovat v cest\u011b, mus\u00edme mnohokr\u00e1t p\u0159eskakovat potok na druh\u00fd b\u0159eh, co\u017e se t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm batohem \u010din\u00ed probl\u00e9my. Tak\u0159ka po 6 hodin\u00e1ch hodin\u00e1ch se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me zat\u00edm jedin\u00e9mu mo\u017en\u00e9mu m\u00edstu (3400m) na p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed. Uprost\u0159ed ryb\u00edzov\u00e9ho a \u0161\u00edpkov\u00e9ho ke\u0159e je po men\u0161\u00edch \u00faprav\u00e1ch m\u00edsto tak akor\u00e1t pro \u010dty\u0159i spac\u00e1ky. \u0160et\u0159\u00edme benz\u00edn a j\u00eddlo va\u0159\u00edme na ohni. B\u011bhem dne se st\u0159evn\u00ed disproporce projevili u n\u00e1s v\u0161ech. Kup\u0159\u00edkladu j\u00e1 mus\u00edm j\u00edt v noci na z\u00e1chod 10x.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_541\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-541\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/4.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-541\" alt=\"4\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/4-300x187.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"187\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/4-300x187.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/4.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-541\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">N\u00e1\u0161 t\u00e1bor ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4200 m u prvn\u00edho jezera.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n7. 8. 2011 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nPo 10:00 h m\u00e1me sbaleno a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. Po\u010das\u00ed stabiln\u00ed \u2013 jasno, 37\u00b0C. J\u00e1, Zuzka a Robur p\u0159eskakujeme \u0159\u00ed\u010dku na prav\u00fd b\u0159eh a obt\u00ed\u017en\u011b stoup\u00e1me strmou sut\u00ed, abychom se vyhnuli k\u0159ov\u00ed pod\u00e9l vody. Jarek vol\u00ed cestu po lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu vysoko nad vodou (100m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch). Po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161vih m\u00e1 t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd, ale pak u\u017e traverzuje str\u00e1\u0148 vcelku dobr\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem. My bojujeme p\u0159\u00edmo pod\u00e9l \u0159eky s trnit\u00fdm k\u0159ov\u00edm a skaln\u00edmi sout\u011bskami a n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t p\u0159eskakujeme \u0159\u00ed\u010dku na druh\u00fd b\u0159eh.Po\u010das\u00ed je stabiln\u00ed \u2013 kr\u00e1sn\u00e9, jen ob\u010das foukne siln\u00fd poryv v\u011btru. P\u0159i jednom zafouk\u00e1n\u00ed mi to bere moji Pilsner Urquell \u010depici a ta kon\u010d\u00ed nen\u00e1vratn\u011b v \u0159ece. Je\u0161t\u011b\u017ee mi Zuzka p\u016fj\u010duje n\u00e1hradn\u00ed k\u0161iltovku (p\u0159i tomto po\u010das\u00ed \u2013 st\u00e1le slunce \u2013 je to pom\u011brn\u011b podstatn\u00fd dopln\u011bk oble\u010den\u00ed). Jarka ob\u010das vid\u00edme vysoko nad n\u00e1mi na protilehl\u00e9m b\u0159ehu. Od v\u00fd\u0161ky 3500m u\u017e kone\u010dn\u011b kon\u010d\u00ed k\u0159ov\u00ed a dolina se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 otv\u00edrat. Sem tam se objevuj\u00ed i travnat\u00e1 m\u00edsta a hned s nimi i kr\u00e1vy. Ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3650m potk\u00e1v\u00e1me dva pasteveck\u00e9 kluky, kte\u0159\u00ed chytaj\u00ed svi\u0161t\u011b. Rusky bohu\u017eel neum\u00ed ani slovo.<\/p>\nV 17:00h kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k soutoku dvou potok\u016f (3750m), kde jsme si \u0159ekli, \u017ee budeme dnes sp\u00e1t (mapa nelhala, dolina je zde \u0161irok\u00e1 a svah m\u00edrn\u00fd). Dokonce je zde i kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 travnat\u00e9 m\u00edsto pro na\u0161e stany p\u0159\u00edmo p\u0159ed \u010delem star\u00e9 ledovcov\u00e9 mor\u00e9ny. Dnes se pom\u011brn\u011b zada\u0159ilo, dali jsme 350m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch a hlavn\u011b u\u017e snad skon\u010dily probl\u00e9my se \u0161patn\u011b prostupn\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem. Te\u010f n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161vih ke dv\u011bma jezer\u016fm do v\u00fd\u0161ky 4200m, nev\u00edm, zda j\u00edt pod\u00e9l \u0159\u00ed\u010dky nebo zprava po su\u0165ovisku, uvid\u00edme z\u00edtra. Jedin\u00e9 co mi d\u011bl\u00e1 starosti, je intenzivn\u00ed sra\u010dka, kterou trp\u00edme v\u0161ichni. M\u011b dnes nav\u00edc bol\u00ed hlava z v\u00fd\u0161ky a nechce se mi j\u00edst.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_543\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-543\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-543\" alt=\"5\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/5.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-543\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zuzka v t\u00e1bo\u0159e u prvn\u00edho jezera ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4200 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n8. 8. 2011 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nPo\u010das\u00ed stabiln\u00ed, dole pod n\u00e1mi opar. Poprv\u00e9 jsem se opravdu dob\u0159e vyspal. Zato Zuzce je od r\u00e1na blb\u011b \u2013 bol\u00ed ji hlava. St\u0159eva beze zm\u011bny, tzn.chcan\u00ed prdel\u00ed pokra\u010duje. Domlouv\u00e1me se, \u017ee dnes si vyneseme zbytn\u00e9 v\u011bci co nejv\u00fd\u0161 sm\u011brem k jezer\u016fm a vr\u00e1t\u00edme se zp\u011bt sem. Bude to dobr\u00e1 aklimatizace a prozkoum\u00e1me ter\u00e9n, kter\u00fd mi je p\u0159i pozorov\u00e1n\u00ed mapy a re\u00e1lu zat\u00edm nejasn\u00fd.<\/p>\nS polovi\u010dn\u00edm batohem se jde o pozn\u00e1n\u00ed l\u00e9pe. Po star\u00e9 mor\u00e9n\u011b jdeme tak\u0159ka po rovin\u011b asi 20 minut a pak za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me stoupat pod\u00e9l potoka. Po chv\u00edli je stoup\u00e1n\u00ed hodn\u011b ostr\u00e9 (od 3850m do 4050m). Nad k\u00f3tou 4000m vid\u00edme, \u017ee pokra\u010dovat d\u00e1l pod\u00e9l potoka je nesmysl \u2013 nad n\u00e1mi je asi 20m vysok\u00fd vodop\u00e1d a nad n\u00edm je\u0161t\u011b jeden a kolem kolm\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly. Traverzujeme tedy vpravo do leh\u010d\u00edho ter\u00e9nu su\u0165ov\u00fdch str\u00e1n\u00ed. Na to, \u017ee Zuzka r\u00e1no na\u0159\u00edkala, jak j\u00ed je blb\u011b, tak te\u010f n\u00e1m v\u0161em d\u00e1v\u00e1 na frak. V\u011bci nech\u00e1v\u00e1me ve v\u00fd\u0161ce zhruba 4200m. Ter\u00e9n se narovn\u00e1v\u00e1 (p\u0159esn\u011b podle mapy), ale jezera nevid\u00edme. Podle mapy by m\u011bli b\u00fdt ob\u011b jezera kousek odtud, tak snad to tak bude a z\u00edtra k nim doraz\u00edme. Dnes jsme se dob\u0159e aklimatizovali na v\u00fd\u0161ku a rekognoskovali ter\u00e9n. Sestup dol\u016f ke stanu (3750m) n\u00e1m trv\u00e1 n\u011bco p\u0159es hodinu a dole jsme v 17:45h. St\u0159evn\u00ed probl\u00e9my p\u0159etrv\u00e1vaj\u00ed a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 se z toho st\u00e1vat za\u010darovan\u00fd kruh: p\u016fvodcem je zjevn\u011b \u0161patn\u00e1 voda z potoka (kravsk\u00e1 lejna?), v hork\u00e9m po\u010das\u00ed m\u00e1me \u017e\u00edze\u0148, ve\u0161ker\u00e1 voda se p\u0159eva\u0159ovat z kapacitn\u00edch d\u016fvod\u016f nem\u016f\u017ee, dezinfekci na vodu nem\u00e1me (proto\u017ee jsem ji nikdy nepot\u0159eboval), t\u00edm p\u00e1dem sra\u010dku p\u0159ikrmujeme, sra\u010dka n\u00e1s dehydruje a jsme zase \u017e\u00edzniv\u00ed.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_545\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-545\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-545\" alt=\"10\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10-300x164.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"164\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10-300x164.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/10.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-545\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kdo nesere s n\u00e1mi, sere proti n\u00e1m!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n9. 8. 2011 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nPo\u010das\u00ed nem\u011bnn\u00e9, pod n\u00e1mi opar. R\u00e1no neposp\u00edch\u00e1me a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme a\u017e v 11:00h. Nejdeme jako v\u010dera pod\u00e9l potoka, ale po stop\u00e1ch v\u010derej\u0161\u00edho sestupu. Docela to jde a za 3,5h jsme u na\u0161i vyn\u00e1\u0161ky (4200m). Dolina tu podle sov\u011btsk\u00e9 mapy tvo\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161inu ohrani\u010denou skaln\u00ed hradbou na J a JZ. Skaln\u00ed hradba sed\u00ed, ale ta rovina tu jaksi nen\u00ed. Sov\u011bt\u0161t\u00ed kartografov\u00e9 asi \u0161et\u0159ili vrstevnicemi. Jeliko\u017e jsme dnes \u0161li celou cestu mimo potok a z\u00e1soby vody u\u017e do\u0161ly, v\u0161ichni m\u00e1me velkou \u017e\u00edze\u0148. Proto douf\u00e1me, \u017ee k jezer\u016fm je to u\u017e jen kousek. Pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1le sm\u011brem na SV. Zhruba po hodin\u011b \u00famorn\u00e9 ch\u016fze vystupuji na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto \u0161iroko daleko a kone\u010dn\u011b vid\u00edm kousek pod sebou jezero! Velk\u00e1 radost. U\u017e jsme opravdu za\u010dali pochybovat o spr\u00e1vnosti a aktu\u00e1lnosti mapy a n\u00e1lada byla poklesl\u00e1. Jezero vypad\u00e1 skv\u011ble, bivak bude dobr\u00fd. M\u00e1me toho dnes v\u0161ichni dost. Jeliko\u017e jsem dnes skoro nejedl, tak to se z\u00e1chodem docela \u0161lo.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_546\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-546\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-546\" alt=\"9\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9-300x187.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"187\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9-300x187.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/9.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-546\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traverz ji\u017en\u00edho \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed Piku Bagush.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n10. 8. 2011 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nJarka od r\u00e1na bol\u00ed hlava, Zuzka s Roburem si st\u011b\u017euj\u00ed na zes\u00edlen\u00ed pr\u016fjmu, j\u00e1 vcelku v pohod\u011b. Z t\u011bchto d\u016fvod\u016f z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1me je\u0161t\u011b jednu noc tady u jezera (4200m). Dnes ud\u011bl\u00e1me pr\u016fzkum cesty do sedla Bagush (4750m) a vyn\u00e1\u0161ku zbytn\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed alespo\u0148 do 4300m. Jdeme pod\u00e9l potoka (p\u0159\u00edtok jezera) asi 20 minut tak\u0159ka po rovin\u011b a\u017e pod su\u0165ovisko (Zuzka se nec\u00edt\u00ed dob\u0159e a tak tady z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 a \u010dek\u00e1 na n\u00e1s), kter\u00fdm stoup\u00e1me k za\u010d\u00e1tku ledovce (4300m) st\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00edho po SZ st\u011bn\u011b Piku Bagush (4904m). Odtud se n\u00e1m kone\u010dn\u011b ukazuje kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 m\u00edsto na\u0161eho p\u0159echodu z GorBagush do doliny \u0159eky Daraigandara \u2013 sedlo Bagush (4750m). \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s traverz ledovce na skaln\u00ed ostrov, d\u00e1le ledovcov\u00e1 t\u016fra pod sedlo a su\u0165ov\u00fd 200m vysok\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih p\u0159\u00edmo do sedla Bagush. A\u017e na z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih cesta vypad\u00e1 vcelku dob\u0159e, z\u00e1v\u011br bude z\u00e1viset na sklonu, kter\u00fd odtud nen\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9 odhadnout a stabilit\u011b sut\u011b. Uvid\u00edme z\u00edtra. Sb\u00edh\u00e1me dol\u016f k jezeru. Zuzka se nec\u00edt\u00ed dob\u0159e a v noci m\u00e1 vysokou hore\u010dku, k tomu chod\u00ed ka\u017edou p\u016flhodinu na z\u00e1chod. Bere si paralen a j\u00e1 d\u011bl\u00e1m hodn\u011b \u010daje. Z\u0159ejm\u011b st\u0159evn\u00ed ch\u0159ipka. Podle pl\u00e1nu bychom m\u011bli ud\u011blat p\u0159echod sedla a sp\u00e1t u\u017e kone\u010dn\u011b v dolin\u011b Daraigandara (a vid\u011bt kone\u010dn\u011b Pik Majakovsk\u00e9ho a dal\u0161\u00ed vysok\u00e9 hory), ale Zuz\u010din aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed zdravotn\u00ed stav nen\u00ed dobr\u00fd.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_547\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-547\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-547\" alt=\"7\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7-300x161.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"161\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7-300x161.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/7.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-547\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sedlo Bagush, 4750 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n11. 8. 2011 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no vypad\u00e1 Zuzka relativn\u011b dob\u0159e, co\u017e sice nech\u00e1pu, ale je to ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b dobr\u00e1 zpr\u00e1va. Dnes n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 podle pl\u00e1nu kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fd den \u2013 chceme po tak\u0159ka t\u00fddnu opustit Gory Bagush, s 30ti kg batohy p\u0159ej\u00edt sedlo (4750m) a sp\u00e1t u\u017e v dolin\u011b Daraigandara. V\u0161ichni se t\u011b\u0161\u00edme, \u017ee dnes uvid\u00edme Pik Majakovsk\u00e9ho a dal\u0161\u00ed vrcholy.<\/p>\nPo necel\u00e9 hodin\u011b p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k m\u00edstu na\u0161\u00ed v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed vyn\u00e1\u0161ky na za\u010d\u00e1tek ledovce. Traverz p\u0159\u00edkr\u00e9ho ledovcov\u00e9ho sr\u00e1zu je OK. D\u00e1le stoup\u00e1me asi hodinu po tvrd\u00e9m sn\u011bhu na za\u010d\u00e1tek su\u0165oviska vedouc\u00edho a\u017e do sedla Bagush (4750m). V\u00fd\u0161vih do sedla vypad\u00e1 zbl\u00edzka slibn\u011b, ale z\u00e1hul to bude, p\u0159eci jen je to 200m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch strm\u011b do kopce s t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm batohem. Ka\u017ed\u00fdch p\u00e1r metr\u016f odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1me, ale postupujeme vzh\u016fru. Posledn\u00ed metry jsou nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9, proto\u017ee jsou tvo\u0159eny jemn\u00fdmi kam\u00ednky, kter\u00e9 uj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00ed pod botami, tak\u017ee \u010dlov\u011bk ud\u011bl\u00e1 jeden krok vzh\u016fru a hned p\u016fl kroku sjede dol\u016f.<\/p>\nVe 14:30h se kone\u010dn\u011b dohrab\u00e1v\u00e1m do sedla! Ostatn\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b bojuj\u00ed pode mnou. Otv\u00edr\u00e1 se mi naprosto fantastick\u00fd v\u00fdhled na velik\u00e1ny doliny Daraigandara \u2013 zcela vlevo dominuje Pik 5150, ve prost\u0159ed vykukuje za skaln\u00edm h\u0159ebenem majest\u00e1tn\u00ed Pik Majakovskij, d\u00e1le pozn\u00e1v\u00e1m z fotek zn\u00e1m\u00fd Pik Tower (neboli Pik Nielse Bohra, na kter\u00fd poprv\u00e9 vylezl \u010cechoslov\u00e1k Franti\u0161ek Janouch v roce 1963), zcela vpravo vy\u010dn\u00edv\u00e1 z\u0159ejm\u011b Pik Imast, Pik Ambarku a dal\u0161\u00ed bezejmenn\u00ed krasavci. P\u0159\u00edmo pode mnou vid\u00edm jezero, kter\u00e9 vylo\u017een\u011b vyb\u00edz\u00ed k tomu, abychom dnes spali na jeho b\u0159ehu. Oproti monot\u00f3nn\u00edm Gor\u00e1m Bagush se n\u00e1m kone\u010dn\u011b ukazuje pestr\u00fd sv\u011bt kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch velehor. Ostr\u00fd skaln\u00ed h\u0159eben vedouc\u00ed ze sedla vlevo (tzn. na S) kon\u010d\u00ed Pikem 5150, vpravo (tzn. na J) ub\u00edh\u00e1 tup\u011bj\u0161\u00ed h\u0159bet Piku Bagush (4904m) pokryt\u00fd sn\u011bhem. Napad\u00e1 m\u011b, kdy\u017e u\u017e jsme tady, vyl\u00e9zt na tento vrchol. V 15:00h stoj\u00edme v sedle v\u0161ichni a koch\u00e1me se v\u00fdhledy. Sestup ze sedla do doliny Daraigandara vypad\u00e1 strm\u011bji a docela divoce. Proto jdu na pr\u016fzkum, kudy to bude nejlep\u0161\u00ed. Ide\u00e1ln\u011b se jev\u00ed traverzovat asi 150m pod\u00e9l h\u0159ebene na sever a pak po skaln\u00edch stupn\u00edch klesat ke \u017elabu a j\u00edm by to opatrn\u011b m\u011blo j\u00edt a\u017e do bezpe\u010dn\u00fdch parti\u00ed.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_549\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-549\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-549\" alt=\"11\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/11.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-549\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pik Bagush (4904 m) ze sedla.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nJ\u00e1, Robur a Jarek se rozhodujeme, \u017ee si \u201evyb\u011bhneme\u201c na Pik Bagush (4904m), Zuzka po\u010dk\u00e1 v sedle (vzhledem k no\u010dn\u00ed hore\u010dce, kterou prod\u011blala se j\u00ed v\u016fbec nediv\u00edm a obdivuji ji, \u017ee to dnes zvl\u00e1d\u00e1 tak skv\u011ble). V\u00fdstup ze sedla na vrchol vypad\u00e1 trivi\u00e1ln\u011bji ne\u017e ve skute\u010dnosti je. Nejprve po sk\u00e1le, pozd\u011bji po sn\u011bhu p\u0159es t\u0159i v\u00fd\u0161vihy. Sn\u00edh tu tvo\u0159\u00ed zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 \u0161upiny (odborn\u011b zvan\u00e9 kalgaspory, a\u017e 0,5m vysok\u00e9 a cca 10cm \u0161irok\u00e9). Ze sedla n\u00e1m to trv\u00e1 hodinu a m\u00e1me toho naho\u0159e dost. Ale st\u00e1lo to za to, v\u00fdhledy jsou je\u0161t\u011b lep\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ze sedla a Majakovsk\u00e9ho vid\u00edme v cel\u00e9 sv\u00e9 kr\u00e1se, nezakryt\u00e9ho skaln\u00edm h\u0159ebenem. Dlouho se na vrcholu nezdr\u017eujeme, proto\u017ee u\u017e je pozdn\u00ed odpoledne. Zp\u00e1tky v sedle jsme v 17:30h a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me sestupovat sm\u011brem, kter\u00fd jsem vytipoval. Je zapot\u0159eb\u00ed d\u00e1vat bacha na pohybliv\u00e9 kameny, p\u00e1d by byl fat\u00e1ln\u00ed. V\u0161ichni toho po dne\u0161ku u\u017e m\u00e1m pln\u00e9 brejle. Se Zuzkou jdeme nap\u0159ed a v 18:45h jsme u jezera (4550m). Vypad\u00e1 to na super bivak. Slunce u\u017e zapad\u00e1 a teplota jde rapidn\u011b dol\u016f. \u017d\u00edzniv\u00ed rozd\u011bl\u00e1v\u00e1me va\u0159i\u010d na \u010daj a stav\u00edme stan. Kluci p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed po 20 minut\u00e1ch.<\/p>\nDnes se n\u00e1m poda\u0159il dobr\u00fd v\u00fdkon, jsme r\u00e1di, \u017ee jsme p\u0159e\u0161li sedlo. \u0160lo se mi zat\u00edm nejl\u00edp, m\u011bl jsem cel\u00fd den dobrou \u201ebojovou\u201c n\u00e1ladu. St\u0159evn\u00ed probl\u00e9my v\u0161ak p\u0159etrv\u00e1vaj\u00ed, u\u017e 6. den, pevn\u011b v\u011b\u0159\u00edm, \u017ee to v t\u00e9to dolin\u011b bude lep\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_552\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-552\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-552\" alt=\"6\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6-300x187.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"187\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6-300x187.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/6.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-552\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pohled ze sedla Bagush na Pik 5150.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n12. 8. 2011 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nDopoledne odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1me po v\u010derej\u0161\u00edm vy\u0161\u0165aven\u00ed a u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch v\u00fdhled\u016f. Mo\u017enost\u00ed na kvalitn\u00ed v\u00fdstupy tu jsou v\u0161ude. Krom\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fdch Pik Schpil, Pik Majakovskij a Pik Tower jsou tu na JV \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 vrcholy 5300-5900m vysok\u00e9. Dnes sch\u00e1z\u00edme po su\u0165ov\u00e9m svahu na p\u011bkn\u00e9 travnat\u00e9 m\u00edsto (4200m), k soutoku dvou p\u0159\u00edtok\u016f, kter\u00e9 odtud tvo\u0159\u00ed \u0159eku Daraigandaru. Nad n\u00e1mi se ty\u010d\u00ed Pik 5395, kter\u00fd tvo\u0159\u00ed kl\u00edn mezi Majakovsk\u00fdm a Pik Tower. I kdy\u017e dnes pouze sch\u00e1z\u00edme o 350m n\u00ed\u017e, m\u00e1me toho dost. D\u016fvody jsou dva \u2013 v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed poctiv\u00e1 t\u016fra a st\u00e1le trvaj\u00edc\u00ed st\u0159evn\u00ed probl\u00e9my. To n\u00e1m ub\u00edr\u00e1 na optimismu.<\/p>\n13. 8. 2011 Sobota<\/strong> \nSetrv\u00e1v\u00e1me v t\u00e1bo\u0159e pod Pikem 5395 ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4200m. Zva\u017eujeme na\u0161e mo\u017enosti. Shodujeme se na jedin\u00e9m mo\u017en\u00e9m \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 vis\u00ed ve vzduchu. Bohu\u017eel vzhledem k na\u0161emu fyzick\u00e9mu stavu mus\u00edme st\u0159\u00edzliv\u011b zavrhnout pokus o n\u011bkter\u00fd z velk\u00fdch vrchol\u016f a nechat si ho na jindy. St\u0159evn\u00ed probl\u00e9my neust\u00e1vaj\u00ed, pokud z\u00edtra za\u010dneme sch\u00e1zet dolinou k \u0159ece Pjand\u017e, bude n\u00e1m sestup trvat minim\u00e1ln\u011b t\u0159i dny, tzn. celkov\u011b 14 dn\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch. Na tuto dobu m\u00e1me vypo\u010d\u00edt\u00e1ny z\u00e1soby j\u00eddla a benzinu. Odpoledne bouldruji na obrovsk\u00e9m \u0161utru u \u0159eky.<\/p>\n14. 8. 2011 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nZa\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me sestupovat dolinou Daraigandara. Dolina je \u0161irok\u00e1 a jsou zde pasteveck\u00e9 stezky pod\u00e9l \u0159eky (po jej\u00edm prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu), tak\u017ee ter\u00e9n daleko p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e v Gor\u00e1ch Bagush. Dnes sch\u00e1z\u00edme do v\u00fd\u0161ky cca 3700m na kr\u00e1sn\u00fd travnat\u00fd pl\u00e1cek p\u0159\u00edmo u \u0159eky.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_556\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-556\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-556 \" alt=\"13\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13-300x184.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"184\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13-300x184.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/13.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-556\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Po dvou t\u00fddnech vid\u00edme prvn\u00ed lidi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n15. 8. 2011 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no se koupeme v \u0159ece, po del\u0161\u00ed dob\u011b o\u010dista cel\u00e9ho t\u011bla, velmi osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed. Dne\u0161n\u00ed cesta vede vysoko nad \u0159ekou (st\u00e1le po jej\u00edm prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu) a m\u00edst na na\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed vody je m\u00e1lo. Cestou proch\u00e1z\u00edme kolem n\u011bkolika letovek (pasteveck\u00e1 s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b). U jedn\u00e9 nar\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na ochotniky (lovce) \u2013 po dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b vid\u00edme lidi! Po 16:00h kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme na soutok \u0159ek Daraigandara, Daraichubusk a Daraizenb. Odtud se \u0159eka naz\u00fdv\u00e1 Daraiobcharv. Kolem soutoku je kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 zelen\u00e1 o\u00e1za pastvin, na kter\u00fdch se pasou kr\u00e1vy a u velk\u00e9 letovky vid\u00edme skupinku pastevc\u016f. Je zde mo\u017enost p\u0159ej\u00edt po most\u011b na druhou stranu a pokra\u010dovat p\u0159es sedlo Abcharv (5000m) do doliny \u0159eky Daraidarshai. Roburovi se u\u017e d\u00e1l nechce a chce tu p\u0159espat. J\u00e1 bych je\u0161t\u011b chv\u00edli \u0161el. Nakonec z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1me a dru\u017e\u00edme se s pastevci. D\u00e1vaj\u00ed n\u00e1m ve\u010de\u0159i (va\u0159en\u00e9 t\u011bstoviny). Na\u0161e z\u00e1soby se ten\u010d\u00ed, tak\u017ee to v\u00edt\u00e1me. Roburovi pasteveck\u00fd pes rozkousl hodinky. Dnes je to prvn\u00ed den, kdy poci\u0165uji zlep\u0161en\u00ed st\u0159evn\u00edch probl\u00e9m\u016f.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_557\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-557\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/16.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-557\" alt=\"16\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/16-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/16-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/16.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-557\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kone\u010dn\u011b \u0159eka Pjand\u017e.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n16. 8. 2011 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no mi vypov\u00edd\u00e1 slu\u017ebu va\u0159i\u010d (benzin, MSR, Summerlite) \u2013 z\u0159ejm\u011b zad\u011blan\u00e1 triska, je\u0161t\u011b\u017ee to nep\u0159i\u0161lo d\u0159\u00edve. Dnes n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 dlouh\u00e1 t\u016fra, proto\u017ee chceme sp\u00e1t dole u hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159eky TJK-AFG (\u0159eka Pjand\u017e). Podle mapy vede cesta vysoko nad \u0159ekou (200-300m) po prav\u00e9m b\u0159ehu, minimum mo\u017enost\u00ed nabrat vodu z prav\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edtok\u016f a minimum m\u00edst pro p\u0159\u00edpadn\u00fd bivak, kdybychom nestihli sej\u00edt a\u017e k vyty\u010den\u00e9mu c\u00edli. V\u0161e se potvrzuje. K hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159ece Pjand\u017e p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme vy\u010derpan\u00ed a hladov\u00ed po 18:00h. Kdy\u017e stoj\u00edm na silnici Khorog-I\u0161ka\u0161im, prom\u00edtaj\u00ed se mi v hlav\u011b ty dva t\u00fddny str\u00e1ven\u00e9 v Pam\u00edrsk\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch. Je\u0161t\u011b na chv\u00edli vyplave na povrch zklam\u00e1n\u00ed z toho, \u017ee jsme nedali \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd velk\u00fd Pik, ale vz\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed se dostavuje dobr\u00fd pocit z p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho horsk\u00e9ho p\u0159echodu a optimistick\u00e1 n\u00e1lada ve mn\u011b ztvrzuje n\u00e1pad, \u017ee se sem vr\u00e1t\u00edm a budu objevovat zdej\u0161\u00ed hory z druh\u00e9 strany \u2013 z jihu z ki\u0161laku Dar\u0161aj.<\/p>\nKolem ani \u017eiv\u00e1\u010dka, pouze polorozbo\u0159en\u00fd opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd d\u016fm. Kousek za n\u00edm na slu\u0161n\u00e9 rovin\u011b kone\u010dn\u011b shazujeme batohy a na Roburov\u011b va\u0159i\u010di d\u011bl\u00e1me posledn\u00ed zbytky j\u00eddla. Na m\u011b nap\u0159. zbyly cel\u00e9 dv\u011b (2!) ovesn\u00e9 ka\u0161e. Zuzka si pochutn\u00e1v\u00e1 na posledn\u00ed pol\u00e9vce, Robur s Jarkem kon\u010d\u00ed s t\u011bstovinami. Voda, kterou oh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1me je zakalen\u00e1 a vypad\u00e1 jak nescaffe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_558\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-558\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/17.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-558\" alt=\"17\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/17-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/17-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/17.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-558\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ki\u0161lak Sem\u010din.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n17. 8. 2011 \u2013 St\u0159eda<\/strong> \nR\u00e1no vid\u00edme kousek od silnice zem\u011bd\u011blce, od kter\u00e9ho se dozv\u00edd\u00e1me, \u017ee nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed ki\u0161lak je odsud 5 km a jmenuje se Sem\u010din. Za hodinu jsme ve vesnici. V magaz\u00ednu kupujeme jedin\u00e9 pivo a su\u0161enky, kter\u00e9 se za norm\u00e1ln\u00edch okolnost\u00ed nedaj\u00ed j\u00edst. Te\u010f jsou ale ty nejlep\u0161\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b! Hlad je opravdu ob\u010das zapot\u0159eb\u00ed. Sympatick\u00fdch \u017een se pt\u00e1me, jestli tu m\u00e1 n\u011bkdo ma\u0161inu, kter\u00e1 by n\u00e1s odvezla do Aud\u017ee \u2013 l\u00e1zn\u011b asi 30 km odtud sm\u011brem do Khorogu. B\u011bhem chv\u00edle se souk\u00e1me do b\u00edl\u00e9ho \u017eiguliku a po poledni jsme v Aud\u017ei (60 Som\u016f\/auto)! Vlevo od silnice (sm\u011brem k Pjand\u017ei) je l\u00e1ze\u0148sk\u00fd are\u00e1l, vpravo hotel s restaurac\u00ed. Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se v hotelu (35 Somoni\/osobu\/noc) a d\u00e1v\u00e1me si zaslou\u017een\u00e9 pivko a v\u00fdborn\u00fd plov. Koup\u00e1n\u00ed v l\u00e1zn\u00edch je za 5 Som\u016f\/osobu, voda 30\u00b0C a po dvou t\u00fddnech v hor\u00e1ch skv\u011bl\u00e1 regenerace. Ve\u010der pokec s Australankou a Polkou, kter\u00e9 cht\u011bj\u00ed do Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nu p\u0159es I\u0161ka\u0161imsk\u00fd p\u0159echod. Dnes jim to nevy\u0161lo, dal\u0161\u00ed pokus daj\u00ed z\u00edtra.<\/p>\n18. 8. 2011 \u2013 \u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nSkv\u011bl\u00e1 sn\u00eddan\u011b \u2013 vaj\u00ed\u010dka! Koup\u00e1n\u00ed v l\u00e1zn\u00edch. Odpoledne v\u00fdlet nad ki\u0161lak k pohrani\u010dn\u00ed str\u00e1\u017enici, proto\u017ee v t\u011bchto m\u00edstech je hrani\u010dn\u00ed \u0159eka Pjand\u017e pom\u011brn\u011b \u00fazk\u00e1 a re\u00e1ln\u011b hroz\u00ed nedovolen\u00e9 p\u0159ekro\u010den\u00ed hranice TJK-AFG. Voj\u00e1k n\u00e1m nevyb\u00edrav\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem (m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed na n\u00e1s samopalem a nab\u00edj\u00ed ho) d\u00e1v\u00e1 najevo, \u017ee tady nem\u00e1me co d\u011blat, tak se rad\u011bji klid\u00edme.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_560\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-560\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/18.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-560\" alt=\"18\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/18-300x190.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"190\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/18-300x190.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/18.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-560\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oprava p\u00edchl\u00e9ho kola na cest\u011b do I\u0161ka\u0161imu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n19. 8. 2011 \u2013 P\u00e1tek<\/strong> \nBrzo r\u00e1no bal\u00edme a v\u010dera domluven\u00fd \u0159idi\u010d n\u00e1s odv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed zelen\u00fdm moskvi\u010dem do I\u0161ka\u0161imu (60 Somoni\/auto). Jedna p\u00edchl\u00e1 pneumatika. Ubytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se hned na za\u010d\u00e1tku m\u011bsta v Hani\u00b4s Guest House (45 Somoni\/osobu\/noc). Je zde ubytov\u00e1no asi 10 cizinc\u016f. I\u0161ka\u0161im m\u011b mile p\u0159ekvapuje, docela to tu \u017eije. P\u0159ed dv\u011bma lety na m\u011b toto m\u011bsto zap\u016fsobilo jako zcela nezaj\u00edmav\u00e9 a mrtv\u00e9 (mo\u017en\u00e1 jsme tu byli ve \u0161patnou dobu), letos se mi tu l\u00edb\u00ed. Bazar funguje (p\u0159ed dv\u011bma lety tu za n\u00e1s fungovaly 2-3 st\u00e1nky, nyn\u00ed 15-20), kupujeme tradi\u010dn\u00ed \u010depice (skidy) \u00e1 35-70 Somoni. P\u0159ijde mi, \u017ee i restaurac\u00ed je tu daleko v\u00edc. V kafe Sarez moc mil\u00e9 setk\u00e1n\u00ed s krajanem Kubou z Ostravy a Ianem ze \u0160v\u00fdcarska (oba solo cestovatel\u00e9). Odpoledne se nachomejt\u00e1me u zkou\u0161ky I\u0161ka\u0161imsk\u00e9 hudebn\u00ed \u0161koly na z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed koncert. Zvou n\u00e1s na n\u011bj, ale to my u\u017e chceme b\u00fdt v Khorogu. Asi jsme pro n\u011b stejn\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u00ed jako oni pro n\u00e1s a narychlo d\u011blaj\u00ed koncert pouze a jen pro n\u00e1s \u2013 skv\u011bl\u00fd a neopakovateln\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek s m\u00edstn\u00ed vach\u00e1nsko-afgh\u00e1nsko-t\u00e1d\u017eickou hudbou.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_562\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-562\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/19.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-562\" alt=\"19\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/19-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/19-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/19.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-562\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khorogh.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n20. 8. 2011 \u2013 Sobota<\/strong> \nDopoledne domlouv\u00e1m na hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edd\u011b odvoz \u017eigulikem do Khorogu (200 Somoni\/auto). Cesta trv\u00e1 3 h, a ani jednou jsme nep\u00edchly! Ve 13:30h jsme v Khorogu. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v Pamir Lodge (nad Afgh\u00e1nsk\u00fdm konzul\u00e1tem, u fotbalov\u00e9ho h\u0159i\u0161t\u011b) ve stanu dle dobr\u00fd rady Kuby (19 Somoni\/noc\/osobu), kluci jdou na pokoj (40 Somoni\/osobu\/noc). P\u011b\u0161ky je to k hlavn\u00ed ulici do 10 minut, odtud mar\u0161rutkou do centra 5 minut (1,5 Somoni\/osobu). St\u0159edn\u011b velk\u00fd bazar, hodn\u011b j\u00eddla, daj\u00ed se sehnat i suven\u00fdry (\u010depice, pono\u017eky, levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e v I\u0161ka\u0161imu). Probl\u00e9m s v\u00fdm\u011bnou pen\u011bz \u2013 je v\u00edkend, banky jsou zav\u0159en\u00e9. Nakonec m\u011bn\u00edme pen\u00edze kousek od z\u00e1padn\u00edho vchodu do Centr\u00e1ln\u00edho parku v kr\u00e1mku Snow-Leopard-Tour (cestovka, suven\u00fdry, mapy), je zde i internet. Centr\u00e1ln\u00ed park je nezvykle evropsk\u00fd (vybudov\u00e1n v roce 2009), mo\u017enost koup\u00e1n\u00ed v n\u00e1dr\u017ei 30\u00d725 metr\u016f. Ve\u010der kalba v hosp\u011b nad \u0159ekou \u0160achdarou.<\/p>\n21. 8. 2011 \u2013 Ned\u011ble<\/strong> \nCel\u00e9 m\u011bsto je polopr\u00e1zdn\u00e9 (ned\u011bln\u00ed klid), bazar zcela pr\u00e1zdn\u00fd. Jdeme se proj\u00edt na leti\u0161t\u011b (2 km od m\u011bsta). Kde se prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed l\u00edstky jsme nena\u0161li, leti\u0161tn\u00ed budova zav\u0159en\u00e1. Kousek od leti\u0161t\u011b si d\u00e1v\u00e1me v zahradn\u00ed gastinici v\u00fdborn\u00fd sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed sal\u00e1t. Zuzka to trochu p\u0159ehnala a nacpala se jako jitrnice \u2013 je j\u00ed blb\u011b a\u017e do noci. I te\u010f ve\u010der se n\u00e1m nab\u00edzej\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di do Du\u0161anbe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_563\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-563\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/20.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-563\" alt=\"20\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/20-300x200.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/20-300x200.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/20.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-563\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Du\u0161anbe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n22. 8. 2011 \u2013 Pond\u011bl\u00ed<\/strong> \nOpou\u0161t\u00edme Khorog a jedeme do Du\u0161anbe. V 8:30h jsme na autostancii v centru Khorogu. Je tu u\u017e plno lid\u00ed a t\u0159i \u0159idi\u010di n\u00e1s odm\u00edtli, \u017ee u\u017e maj\u00ed plno. Pracovn\u00ed den (k\u00f3r v pond\u011bl\u00ed) to tady chce b\u00fdt d\u0159\u00edve (7:00h). Nakonec m\u00e1 volno \u0159idi\u010d jm\u00e9nem Du\u0161anbe. S n\u00edm ani nikam jinam ne\u017e do Du\u0161anbe jet nem\u016f\u017eeme. Jedeme v 7 lidech + \u0159idi\u010d (tzn. na zadn\u00ed \u201cfale\u0161n\u00e9\u201d seda\u010dce jsme t\u0159i \u2013 hr\u016fza!, cena 320 Somoni\/osobu). Vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v 9:00h, auto Ssang Yong Musso. \u0158idi\u010d je tot\u00e1ln\u00ed bl\u00e1zen, asi jede na rekord trat\u011b. Opravdu se chv\u00edlemi dost boj\u00edm. V pr\u016fsmyku (zhruba polovina cesty) m\u00e1me skv\u011bl\u00fd \u010das, je 16:00h. Cestou dol\u016f prvn\u00ed p\u00edchnut\u00ed pneu. D\u00edra je na lepen\u00ed velk\u00e1, ale m\u00e1me je\u0161t\u011b rezervu. Hor\u0161\u00ed je to, kdy\u017e kolem 22:00h p\u00edchneme podruh\u00e9. Lepen\u00ed moc nepom\u00e1h\u00e1, po\u0159\u00e1d uch\u00e1z\u00ed. Nakonec jedeme stylem napumpovat kolo, ujet 3-4km ne\u017e kolo ujde a zase nepumpovat. Takhle to jde asi deset cykl\u016f a\u017e to na\u0161eho temperamentn\u00edho \u0159idi\u010de p\u0159estane bavit a b\u011bhem n\u011bkolika km sjede pneumatiku na disk. Dal\u0161\u00ed 3h oprav ji\u017e jednou p\u00edchnut\u00e9 pneumatiky, ale lepen\u00ed na velkou d\u00edru nepom\u00e1h\u00e1. P\u0159esn\u011b n\u00e1m nen\u00ed jasn\u00e9, co Du\u0161anbe d\u011bl\u00e1. Nakonec n\u00e1m jeden \u0159idi\u010d p\u016fj\u010duje du\u0161i (samoz\u0159ejm\u011b zcela jin\u00fdch rozm\u011br\u016f, ne\u017e m\u00e1 na\u0161e kolo). Du\u0161anbemu se ji po n\u011bkolika marn\u00fdch pokusech da\u0159\u00ed nacpat do p\u00edchl\u00e9 bezdu\u0161ov\u00e9 pneumatiky. K velk\u00e9mu p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed na\u0161eho \u0159idi\u010de ani tato varianta nen\u00ed sch\u016fdn\u00e1 a kolo nedr\u017e\u00ed. V Asii je v\u0161e mo\u017en\u00e9, ale nic nen\u00ed jednoduch\u00e9. \u0160t\u011bst\u00ed se na n\u00e1s usm\u00e1lo \u2013 v 2:00h r\u00e1no kolem proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed Du\u0161anbe\u016fv kamar\u00e1d z I\u0161ka\u0161imu a ten n\u00e1m p\u016fj\u010duje celou rezervu. V Du\u0161anbe jsme v 7:00h.<\/p>\n23. 8. 2011 \u2013 \u00dater\u00fd<\/strong> \nUbytov\u00e1v\u00e1me se v hotelu Vach\u0161 hned vedle Du\u0161anbejsk\u00e9 Opery (60 Somoni\/osobu). Koup\u00e1n\u00ed v Komsomolsk\u00e9m ozeru, ve v\u00fdborn\u00e9 restauraci ROCHAT kousek od Prezidentsk\u00e9ho pal\u00e1ce na hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edd\u011b Rudaki si d\u00e1v\u00e1me kompot, pivko, v\u00fdborn\u00fd \u0161a\u0161lik. V \u00edransk\u00e9m baru (hned vedle Rochatu) koktejly. Zelen\u00fd bazar.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_564\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-564\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/21.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-564\" alt=\"21\" src=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/21-300x199.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/21-300x199.jpg 300w, http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/21.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-564\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Du\u0161anbe, bazar.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n24.-25. 8. 2011 \u2013 St\u0159eda-\u010ctvrtek<\/strong> \nN\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva zoologick\u00e9 zahrady, relax v parku p\u0159ed N\u00e1rodn\u00edm domem u vodotrysk\u016f, hodn\u011b koktejl\u016f. Ve\u010der se bal\u00edme a v 2:30h r\u00e1no odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme taxikem (30 Somoni\/auto) na leti\u0161t\u011b. Odbaven\u00ed bez probl\u00e9m\u016f. Odl\u00e9t\u00e1me v 5:10h, v 8:30h jsme v Istanbulu. M\u00e1me 7h mezi lety, dost na prohl\u00eddku Ca\u0159ihradu. Metrem a tramvaj\u00ed se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me za 50minut na Sultanahmed. Prohl\u00eddka Modr\u00e9 me\u0161ity, kebab, pivko. Istanbul stoj\u00ed za to! V\u00fdborn\u011b vypln\u011bn\u00e1 p\u0159est\u00e1vka. Odpoledne odl\u00e9t\u00e1me do Prahy a je po dovolen\u00e9.<\/p>\nOp\u011bt \u2013 jak jinak \u2013 n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 t\u0159i ned\u011ble. D\u00e1vno p\u0159ed n\u00e1vratem dom\u016f mi bylo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee do Vach\u00e1nu se chci vr\u00e1tit!<\/p>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fotky.zdenda.net\/2011-Pamir\/\" target=\"_blank\">FOTOGALERIE<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/propagace\/\">Propagace<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2>Propagace t\u00e9to v\u00fdpravy:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v \u010dasopise Lid\u00e9 a Hory 2\/2012\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2011_lideahory.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek na serveru Pohora\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pohora.cz\/tadzikistan\/8624-jz-pamir-z-bagushe-do-doliny-daraigandara\/\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek na webu HUMI OUTDOOR\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.humi.cz\/?lg=cz&str=4&id=461&n=jz-pamir-z-bagushe-do-doliny-daraigandara\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>\u010cl\u00e1nek v P\u011bn\u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m Zpravodaji 12\/2011 –\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/data\/2011_pencinskyzpravodaj.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">zde<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u010clenov\u00e9:\u00a0Zdenda Bouda, Zuzka Doubkov\u00e1, Radim Robur Friedrich, Jarek Kurpiewski FOTOGALERIE\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Propagace Ceny (l\u00e9to 2011): Kurz \u2013 l\u00e9to 2011 1 \u20ac 6,70-6,90 Somoni 1 \u20ac 24,30 K\u010d 1 Somoni 3,60 K\u010d Orienta\u010dn\u00ed ceny – l\u00e9to 2011 (Somoni\/K\u010d): Doprava Du\u0161anbe \u2013 Khorog (1 osoba v ter\u00e9nn\u00edm voze) 250-300 S\/900-1080 K\u010d Doprava Khorog \u2013 I\u0161ka\u0161im 35-40 S\/126-144 K\u010d Orienta\u010dn\u00ed cena dopravy na Pam\u00edru … <a href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading HUMI OUTDOOR – Pam\u00edr – T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1n – Bagush 2011<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled\"><div class=\"robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing\"><div class=\"sd-content\"><ul><li class=\"share-facebook\"><div class=\"fb-share-button\" data-href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/\" data-layout=\"button_count\"><\/div><\/li><li class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp\"><a rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" data-shared=\"\" class=\"share-jetpack-whatsapp sd-button\" href=\"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/pamir-2011-tajikistan-bagush-daraigandara\/?share=jetpack-whatsapp\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Click to share on WhatsApp\">WhatsApp<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"share-end\"><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":""},"categories":[4,3,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-245","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopisy","category-clanky","category-svet"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p40RXp-3X","_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=245"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":800,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245\/revisions\/800"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=245"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=245"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/zdenda.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=245"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}